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Found 52 results

  1. Hey everyone- I just got back into the hobby that I used to enjoy as a kid. Picked up a few 1/25 car sets on clearance at my local hobby store and found that decision to be easy. However, I was completely overwhelmed by paint choices. I have a paasche model H and plan to spray most of the parts with that, aside from small details. I've watched a few videos and done some reading on the forum but I'm overwhelmed by the info. I want to be as frugal as possible with my paint choices for now and would like something airbrushable... which leads me to my broad and probably controversial questions: 1) What's the "go to" brand these days? 2) acrylic or enamel... or both? 3) most cost effective way and place to purchase?
  2. I tried to paint a set of wheels with some Testors lacquer. Using my usual technique, the paint puddled in the low spots and the high spots looked like they had no paint. So I striped them, primed them, this time. And got the same result. I decanted some and tried air brushing several different parts, from my parts box. Thinking maybe the plastic of the wheels was the issue. Regardless of the pressure or amount of paint, I got the same thing. Is there a way to thicken the paint I have decanted? Maybe just a bad can of paint? I like the color, but right now, its completely useless. Any help would be appreciated
  3. Hi Guys, Sorry if this has been asked before - I tried a quick search but couldn't see anything. I'm hoping to do a future model in pearl/flip paint but can't find much in terms of guidance on what to do, or indeed what not to do. I'm after a green/purple flip and can see Tamiya to a PS-46 which looks perfect, however it's stated as not for use on plastic models, only polycarb stuff. Does anyone have any recommendations on what to use, or if the PS stuff can be used, but in a certain way? Thanks!
  4. So I'm having another interesting problem with Scale Finishes paint. I am not sure it is specific to that brand. Here is the story. First, spoons. I very often test paint on plastic spoons. I bought a box of 1000 styrene spoons and have bene using them for years. Lately, the spoons show a glossy/not glossy pattern on them - see the photo below. This is with MANY different brands of paint, so I assume it is something to do with contamination in the plastic of the spoon. I tested the Dark Camel color from Scale Finishes on a spoon, and it exhibited the problem. After I applied the paint to the car, I noticed the same problem. See the photos - there are non-glossy patches on the body. This is after several light/medium coats of the paint, and it looked fantastic wet. As it dried, it got blotchy. Notice the picture of the hood, though - it looks great. Yeah it's orange-peely but this is before any gloscoat or sanding/polishing. --> What is going on with this blotchy paint!? Does anyone have any insight? Hoping that gloss coat would make it look right, I took my test soon and put on TWO medium/heavy coats of alclad clear kote, then a very heavy coat. When wet it looked like glass, but after it dried - blotchy. So it seems that no amount of clear coat is going to fix this. It is possible that the hood has more primer on it than the body. I had to fill dimples and depressions, and to cover the putty and sanding it took more primer. Is that the key? A lot more primer? Any help you all can give would be great. Thanks.
  5. '67 Camaro Paint job

    Soooooo a question about paint..... The yellow on the hood and the yellow on the body are different shades. I put another layer of paint on the body to try and even it out, as that's the lighter of the two. What else can I do to improve the look, and make it look really glossy??
  6. I just picked a cup up yesterday at the Hy-Vee closest to me and think it needs some detail painting and maybe some glow in the dark paint. It seems like a fairly soft plastic and I intend to leave brown it's molded in the main color, but want to paint the eyes, teeth, brows, bone in the nose, all the V like shapes molded around the face, ect. What would be the best way to approach this? I'm think of starting with a coat of Future, or what ever it is now called, and apply the additional colors over that and maybe use some of the glow in the dark for things like he eyes, teeth, nose bone piercing, and V details then clear the daylights out of it so I can actually drink out of it at work. Anybody got any recommendations ?
  7. Hello friends. I have looked all over (online) for someone to sell me some Zero Paint. Where do you 'guys' get it? I've tried Amazon. Thanks
  8. Easy, cheap, works perfectly and fits any hobby paint bottle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7jwhy7neaI
  9. Hey guys I searched the forums but couldn't find the answer. I'm new to clear coating and am not sure if I should clear coat the body before or after I paint the chrome trim. Not sure the chrome will stick after the clear. Thanks!
  10. Hi all Even though I have been building kits on and off for decades, I do not have an airbrush. I simply cannot afford one, and frankly cleaning them makes me nervous. Having said that, a 1:1 Jeep guy we know mentioned the Perval sprayer system, and recently I found out they can be purchased at Home Depot for only $5! Info can be found here ----------- >>> https://preval.com/all-products/preval-sprayer/ A peek at the website shows they sell packs of smaller paint containers, which look better suited to model use, as the bottle that comes with the small kit is a rather large glass one (see pic). Has anyone here ever used this system to spray their models? I'd like to know more about them before trying mine out. I especially need to understand any cleaning processes, as I seriously doubt the propellant will only last for one model!
  11. Hello. I recently recived some paint from Paintscratch and this isn`t ready for airbrush. My question would be what ratio i should mix paint and thinner. Been trying to read around the web and watch youtube videos on the subject but there is a question i still have to ask. Are these paint lacquer,as in i will need lacquer thinner to mix? Any good tip is appriciated. Thanks. Tommy
  12. A Good To Know Tip

    When applying light colored paint over colored plastic, once body prep is finished, first, shoot it with a coat of Testor's metalizer, then primer over that. The attached model is over 20 years old, and it's still this yellow, in spite of being shot over red plastic. The metalizer kills any would-be bleed-through.
  13. Hello! I'm here looking for help, I built a few models a lifetime ago with my stepdad but that's it. I was about 5 so I have no idea what we used or what we needed. My husband built models as a kid up into his teenage years but when life got busy he didn't have the time to keep doing it and lost all his stuff over the years. He likes models he has to pain. I want to get him everything he needs to start back buolding with for Christmas but I have no idea where to start. I at least want to get the basics and then I can get him the "fancy" stuff that's just nice to have for other gifts. My question is what are the basics? He mentioned air brushing and small air compressors in conversation but I didn't want to press much I want it to be a surprise. Also, what's the best place to buy equipment and supplies from? Including build kits? What kind of paint do I need to get for airbrushing? I know I don't know the lingo here but this is something I really want to do for my hard working husband. I craft, sew, and cut vinyl so I want to give him a section of my art room for his art too ❤️ Thanks in advance for your help!
  14. Hi, From MCW Automotive Finishes

    Hi all, This is Mike from MCW Automotive Finishes. I purchased the business from Dave Dodge, almost a year ago. I am continuing to produce the paints that you all love. I have made some changes to the way we do business. I will take phone orders, I accept paypal, I will take e-mail orders, I still do Fax and mail orders. I have also added some new products, I have added a line of pearl clear coats. I am also developing some Military and Railroad colors. I can also now do any of our colors in rattle cans. There is a higher cost to the cans with a two can min. (this is due to the waste caused by making cans) You can follow us on facebook (MCWfinishes) Thanks for your continued business. Mike Guest
  15. HOK

  16. Round2 kit issues

    Ok, this is the third Round2 kit I have had issue with and this one is by far the worst problem kit so far. Paint or primer absolutely WILL NOT STICK to this kit. I washed it as always before starting, paint looks like oil or water under it when applied. OK I stripped in brake fluid, same problem, stripped in purple pond...same problem. Stripped in brake fluid, washed, easy off, washed, Tamiya primer mostly covers but starts to bubble, ok I wet sand bubbles, shot with Krylon (Yeah getting po'ed and cheap), first coat looks ok, second coat of same paint crazes like..well crazy. I am trying to build the Round2 '53 Ford Truck. ( I'm done with it and it is going into trash) Does any one else have any experience with this problem? I am also building a Revel 68 Mustang bought at same time, zero problem with paint. I just completed the Round2 Cougar Eliminator last week, again no problems. Plastic looked different on the two Round2 kits as well. Thanks if anyone has any ideas.
  17. 32 Ford 5 window

    Did up a couple of paint samples for the car. I showed them to the missus, she picked the green. I was leaning toward the copper, but we all know who won. Next build, I'll pick the color.
  18. I have a model car with a body that is made of die cast. It is unpainted and I have one question. Do you paint die cast the same way as styrene and do you sand it and polish the finish the same way? Could you use spray cans and or an airbrush?
  19. Hey guys. I am looking to mix colors to brush my motor with. Maybe for even airbrushing as well. Anyways I tried mixing for a light blue like the color of this motor. When I would go to brush sometimes I would get white, sometimes light blue, just not a constant blue color. Is there a trick to this? I mixed white and blue with a toothpick. The color looked good on the tray, but again when I went to paint I got more white than anything. Need help please.
  20. Airbrush or spray can?

    What do you guys use most? Do you paint by hand a lot?
  21. Can someone please tell me the correct color of blue can be used for "Color Me Gone" Dodge? I don't airbrush, so it needs to be a rattle can. Thanks!
  22. Hey there all! I've been racking my brain and discouraging myself from finishing any of the three kits due to a lack of confidence with painting. I've already stripped my first project (AMT 1964 Impala SS) and started again. Since then, I've torn down 4 older builds and stripped those down with the hopes of saving those kits. I understand cleaning the body properly and sanding it. I understand the primer and wet sanding process. I also understand prepping the paint and the effects of weather. I don't understand the actual process of applying color coats, sanding them properly and clear coating. Can anyone break this down for me? Here are my first attempts! Is this a proper first coat? I'm using Duplicolor automotive enamel over Duplicolor primer/sealant. Thanks for any tips and criticism in advance! This is really bumming me out.
  23. Gravity Colors

    I just tried to order some Gravity Colors Paint. The paint was about $7.50 for the 2oz bottle, but the shipping was more than $70.00? Am I doing something wrong?
  24. Got some paints this weekend, I should be all set for a loooong time.
  25. I have heard about a primer sealer brand name, "Plasticote T-235". Is this safe for styrene? And also I would like a white primer-sealer; this Plasticote is gray. Any advice?