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Found 12 results

  1. 1936 Ford roadster

    In the mid-90s cars built by Boyd Coddington, Troy Trepanier or Posie´s influenced me a lot and I wanted to build a model car that, if it was real, might compete along with them for the Riddler- or America´s Most Beautyful Roadster Award, just like the Predator (Troy) or the Smoothster (Boyd). Testors´ Smoothster kit wasn´t available yet, so I had to start with something else. I took AMT´s ´36 Ford roadster kit, smoothed the body and modified the cowl to fit a Plymouth Prowler snap kit´s inerior and windshield. New door lines were engraved to match the Prowler´s door panels. I molded and reshaped the running boards and widened the rear fenders for the Prowler-weels. Anted Dodge Viper fog lights were frenched into the front fenders. Boyd Coddington used front-wheel-drive engines, placed between the rear wheels in his Aluma Coupe and his RoadStar, which inspired me to do the same with a ´92 Ford Taurus SHO engine. The deck lid was opened and extended and the engine bay was scratchbuilt as wellt the exhaust sytem and floor pan. In 1996, that was my idea of an AMBR-Award contender. What do you think? Greetings from Germany
  2. Aluma Coupe (my take)

    I built this a couple of decades ago, and ran across some photos of it in the computer, so, I thought I'd share some of them. It's my take on Boyd's Aluma Coupe. Since I rarely stray far from my drag racing "roots", I incorporated elements of '50s-'60s gassers, but kept it low to the ground. It's more or less a "slammer", given the blacked-out windows. The paint scheme is loosely based on the old Santa Fe Railroad "Warbonnet" scheme (although not the colors!). I used a dropped tube front axle and added front brakes. The wheels are from a Johan funny car kit. I found some old dried out and separated duct tape, stuck to something, and cut the surface film into strips to create the tape over the headlight lenses. Those, along with the capped headers were employed to create a street/strip look. The front wheel dust caps were turned on the lathe. Shocks and radius rods are scratched from brass tubing and HO scale model railroad handrail stanchions. The paint separations are a little rough--c'est la vie...Anyway, it was a quickie build, and a lot of fun, and I like it! Comments/criticisms welcome. Thanks for having a look!
  3. regency era street rod

    This is something I wanted to do since I first saw Ray Fahner's wake wagon,1970?so it's a tribute I guess.started with amt raiders coach,narrowed,shortened,built doors,filled windows,made new windows,set on a revell t frame that was extended front and rear.Everything else is pretty much scratch built,engine is small block ford from revell(detailed)trans is aod also from revell,nine inch ford from amt nascar(modified),this is all plastic with the exception of the grill.questions and comments welcome thanks for looking johnz
  4. 1934 Ford Cabriolet

    1934 Ford Cabriolet Street Rod by Revell Monogram Thom Taylor I build this Ford long time ago, this was the first time that I work with lacquer paint and some engine details
  5. Li'L Coffin fun

    Back in the late 60s or early 70s there was a song called Delta Dawn about a woman waiting on a corner for her lover that jilted her. It's possible that this "ghost chaser" may have found her lover. My 14 year old Grandson has been visiting from Iowa and wanted to build a couple models while he was here. This is his second. He's got the talent and I hope he continues when he gets back home to Knoxville Iowa.
  6. Candy Red '40 Ford Coupe

    Hi Guys, Here are some pictures of the '40 Ford Coupe that I completed over the weekend:
  7. After I finished my '40 Ford Roadster Pickup based on a Tim Boyd article, I was drawn to one of Tim's Street Rodder articles and making a then modern Street Rod out of the '70's vintage Revell Buttera kit. I built the inaccurate '34 3 Window by Revell and I loved the chassis. I completed this model during my summer break between May and June before I started summer classes. This model was not as heavily modified as my '40 Ford Roadster Pickup but I did do far more plumbing on this model than I ever did before. The colors I used were Krylon Popsicle Orange (OSHA Safety Orange), Model Master Ivory, Tamiya transparent Orange, Pactra Gold and Revell Metal colors in Humbrol pots and a few other odds and ends colors. The theme I chose was to make the car an Orange Creamsicle, a cool car, with a tangy orange outside and a creamy cool interior. Ah, the early '90's with all of the bright colors drilled into a young impressionable mind... I chopped the top, but unlike the article I retained the reverse angle to the sides - Tim made more of a vertical formal side panel to the roof. I stole the intake from an MPC Camaro with injectors, '36 Ford Headlights, front tires from some o;d gasser or dragster from my parts box, the turn signals and the rear taillights are from a sprue of Big Rig Trailer lights trimmed down. I used Detail Master flexible fan and used a Detail Master interior detailing kit for the speakers and the door handles. The dash was scratch built and an epoxy casting was made off of another Rod kit for the cluster. I wired the engine, added break and fuel lines to the chassis, hoses for the air conditioner and radiator. My challenges was the chopped top and molded windshield, wiring and photo-etch. I broke with the instructions flow and built the motor and wired it up and set it into the chassis to later find out how hard it is to get the fenders over the engine. The instructions show that you put the heads on after the fenders are installed, Doh! I did a lot of cussing that afternoon in the basement and my Mom yelling at me for swearing so much. I got it together and I was pleased with it and I got a shinier body after I had polished the Krylon with Automotive buffing compound (the days before Micro Mesh polishing systems). Looking back and trying to keep it together has been quite a challenge as well. The Buttera chassis is beautiful and has pose-able front wheels. The A arms keep on opening up and the front wheels pop out, various phot etch bits fall off and the rear wheels fall off and break off of the mounts. The kit was designed to originally have 2 part plastic tires and small rimmed wire wheels. By the late '80's new vinyl tires and bigger rims were a part of the kit and were heavier and then break I think I will finally have to pin the rear wheels on and glue the wheels in place. Once again thank you Tim for making interesting projects to inspire builders. After I did this model I was brow beated by a modeling friend to quit following model magazine articles and make my own rods and customs. My friend Jeff had built many models kit bashed his own way but my technique was still more advanced than his. My confidence was bolster by doing these two conversions and I took up his challenge. The model I built the following year tested by kit bashing skills and I used my first resin body as well. P.S. Yes, I was trying to get a little artsy with the composition of the photos...
  8. Back in the mid eighties I started to heavily build and collect model cars and it coincided with getting my drivers license and greater interest in all things automotive. I also started to read very carefully all of the model car mags I could get my hands on. I received my first Dremel tool for Xmas of '88 and I just finished my first semester in design school at college. I was itching to use my new Dremel tool on a more difficult build. build a more advanced model beyond some simple wheel swaps. I remembered seeing in my collection of model car mags a build up of a Phantom 40 Ford Roadster Pickup with a removable hardtop roof. So with my Xmas money on December 26th my Dad and I drove out to our favorite Hobby shop with money burning in my pocket and I purchased a Monogram 40 Ford Pickup and a Monogram Chevy Camaro 3 in 1 kit for the engine and other parts. I wanted the Chevelle for the Rat motor as used in the article but the shop was out of stock and went for the SBC with a blower. I also remember getting the Firebird as well because it had some of the other engine hop up parts I wanted as well. I also wanted to try out the Dremel and I used it to grind out the floor boards and other molded in "stuff" on the chassis that I did not need. It was an aurdous task for me then to clean up the chassis, grind off the texture on the inside of the roof and remove all of the louvers from the hood and tailgate. This was the era of ultra smooth cars with little chrome and all billet.. I started using Squadron Green stuff and moved to an automotive spot putty at this time for filling. Also I made some more work for me using the Dremel. I didn't have a foot control to slow it down nor a flex shaft to have better hand control. I made a lot of divots in the roof and chassis. I also went a few steps further and I made the doors stay working and scracth built the door panels and added and extended the trim around the cabin. I also used Detail Master photo etched speakers. I used mostly Testors paints, Model Master Engine red over a Silver rattle can base. I also used for the first time Testors Metalizer paints and fell in love with the look. I do have a roof but that took some serious damage and I need to restore that part. Otherwise I only needed to fix a few parts that feel off over the past 25 years. My main problem was that I was not able to get as glossy of a finish with the airbrushed red paint. I was running it too dry and I did not gloss coat the paint. I was running out of time and finished it the night before I entered it into a model contest. I got a second place with it if memory serves me correct. So now I say it is Suede, lol Here is the list of parts I stole from different kits Monogram 40 Ford Pickup Body Chassis Front Suspension Dash Floorboard & seat riser Monogram Camaro and Firebird Engine and rear suspension Seats Arm rests Shifter Monogram 37 Ford Sedan Rims and Tires Dash Insert - Foil Cast copy AMT 39 Ford Sedan Head Lights and Bezels I did not get to work on the model much during college, but I did work on it heavily during my summer break and finished it before I went back in the fall. So sometime I think in late July or early August I completed the model. I learned a lot from reading Tim Boyds articles and I stuck through it and got it done. As I like to call it I "T Boyded" the suspension to get the right ride height and ground away until it was just right. Tim always was able to do that and the viewer would never be able to see and of the trimming away he did to get things to fit. Thanks Tim for all of your articles and inspiration over the years!
  9. I'll start out with an easy one that isn't finished just yet. This is the dashboard out of my 50 Ford pickup rat rod. Nothing special other than I am not a smoker so I didn't want an ashtray. But I'd like to have a large glovebox.. so I modified the dash the way I wanted my 1:1 to be. Most folks will never even notice! An easy dash created for the Beverly HIllbillies truck cab. A flat piece of plastic wood grained with paints, then a photo etched gauge bezel and knobs made from ship building nails were added. 8 ball shifter is a large shirt pin with a dab of white paint and the small "8" was a decal number on a kit decal sheet. A narrowed '53 Studebaker dashboard was fit into this '34 Ford sedan interior. another '34 Ford got this shortened '57 Chevy dashboard Just some ideas... lets see yours
  10. Monogram 41' Willys Street Rod

    This is another box stock build while I wait on the paint to cure on the Nova. It will be a pretty quick build, maybe even get the body in primer this weekend. The kit is nice with not much flash and its going together pretty smoothly. Thanks for looking and as always comments welcome. Some painted parts Engine just needs touch up and some wash Chassis together
  11. Project number 5... Just finished with a 1982 Renault 5 Turbo and thanks to a fellow member (You know who you are), decided to build the Revell Special Edition 68' Dodge Charger R/T; this kit is way above my skill level, but I'm willing to give it my best shot. Curiously, I was not able to find a single photo of the car as shown in the Hemified version (Not a complete model, not a real car... Nothing!!!)... So I would like to make it just like it But, since I usually buy two kits (In case I ruin something), would like to paint the second body in full black (This also to be used as a race version). This kit is massive, well, for my newbie skills at least, and is probably the toughest I have yet to deal with, so please hang tight. Thank you for reading.