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Found 12 results

  1. I have an old Super Quiet 20 compressor that has to have oil for the compressor. I have no idea what sort of oil to get for it. It doesn't need oil now but it certainly will in the future. What sort of compressor oil should I be looking at? I've been contemplating power steering oil as I believe it is hydraulic oil but I could be wrong. Whatever brand of oil the unit originally called for and where to get it has been lost in the mists of time. Robert
  2. These are Some DIY AB Paint Stands that my buddy "FREDDIE" helped me with. They are totally interchangeable & capable of moving in just about any direction or angles needed (the goalpost looking ones arms & base swivel) for your part needing to be painted. I built them using cast iron flanges 3/4" + all 3/4" pipe & fittings. I just add some 10-15lb mounting tape to the different size plastic bushings, that hold the part. The Iron Flange & Pipe fittings add enough weight to give your part that nice STURDY SOLID feeling to your parts needing paint! I added some leftover gloss rattlecan black paint enamel on the iron sections making them cleanable & looking nice.... Very Simple to make, inexpensive & easy to locate parts at most any Hardware shop.... enjoy, Lee
  3. Hello. I recently recived some paint from Paintscratch and this isn`t ready for airbrush. My question would be what ratio i should mix paint and thinner. Been trying to read around the web and watch youtube videos on the subject but there is a question i still have to ask. Are these paint lacquer,as in i will need lacquer thinner to mix? Any good tip is appriciated. Thanks. Tommy
  4. Hi all, I finally bought an airbrush and am ready for doing the color coat to my Shelby Mustang. I got a good feel for the airbrush by spraying the primer. Moving to the final color. I was looking at youtube videos and see people talking about doing light mist coats and waiting around 15 minutes between coats. While you're waiting, what happens to your airbrush? Wouldn't it start drying up inside and getting clogged? Do I have to clean it and then reload paint every 15 minutes? Or can I wrap the airbrush in cellophane wrap to keep it "wet". Please let me know how to proceed! Much appreciated!
  5. Airbrush setup/Questions

    Hey guys, just got my new Paasche airbrush in last night. It is double action. Tricky to get use to. So let me ask what the best set up is. Size of needle? Size of tip? I can tell how to determine the needle size by the notches at the end, but how do you determine the size of the tip? Is it labeled somewhere? I am shooting acrylic paint and it was spitting and splatting. From what I could tell it was b/c I need to thin the paint with water. Is there a certain ratio that works best? Any methods you guys know that thins it best for the airbrush? I am using around 22 psi with the tip that came standard on it. The needle is size 3 currently. Thanks guys!
  6. Hi All, I don’t post much but just got back into the hobby a couple years back (after a 30 year hiatus! ). I like browsing the forums here because they inspire & educate along the way. I thank you all for that. So I’ve tried to apply some of those tips & techniques into this current project. Here’s my take on the 1992 Caprice Taxi / Fire Chief car with a twist. I’ve always thought these Caprice’s could lend themselves to the old Lead Sled / Kustom look from the ‘50’s. After I came across this Revell SnapTite kit at a swap meet & thought I’d give it a try! (Easier & cheaper than doing a real car !!! ) Features I wanted for the ‘look’ was low suspension, fender skirts, wide whites w/ retro hub caps & shiny paint. (And...since I wanted to keep this achievable & the stress level low, I figured on a simple curb side build, (the engine & suspension can be left to your imagination!) (Please excuse my messy work bench (it just means I’m working! For the fender skirts, I made them from some 1” diameter styrene tubing; Cut out & sanded edge to match that weird Chevy fender shape & glued in place…. Using a mix of styrene sprue &/or the superglue & baking soda method, I filled all the extra holes that I didn’t need & shaved the door handles…. I took a progress shot; First prime ended coming out (dry) & bumpy, (I ended up sanding most of it off...). Those wheels & tires are from an old ‘58 Impala I had in my parts bin…. more sanding & smoothing… headlights & grille set in to test Warning, these next photos are not for the squeamish or perfectionists! Here’s a shot of the lowered suspension! (A little chop, heat & bend (FIRE!) on the left side) (nip & tuck & cut the inner fenders away!) (but hey, No one will see it when it's on the ground...Let’s just say it’s on airbag suspension, ok? It Needs to be low ) Paint has always been my biggest challenge & I wanted to try something a little different by using an airbrush w/ nail polish (ugh!)...but I marched forward. First I sprayed some Walmart gloss black (which looked pretty good as is… But I didn’t want to stop there, because I found this neat blue-to-purple color-flip Nail polish at the Dollar Store. I figured I'd try out the airbrush technique. Even after playing with the thinner ratios, it still went on dry & flat looking… (before a light sanding with 800 grit) But after some clear coat (& more sanding & more clear coat!) it started to look nicer… & another coat (or 2) of clear. You can see the purple color flip come out where the edges roll away from the sides (C-pillar area, etc.) (always gotta do a mockup to keep me inspired ) ...Still need to repaint those white walls. Interior is just white acrylic & painted accents (I did smooth the dash top & spray it body color)... and since my son lost the decal sheet that had the gauges on it ...I figured I’d improvise a bit. I searched Google for a suitable images of a gauge panel (& retro heater controls and radio). Then saved these JPGs to my computer, Scaled them to size using a free graphics program (Inkscape). Then printed on photo paper & used white glue to keep them in place. Not finished yet, (as I need to smooth out the steering wheel paint), but I think the glued on pictures look pretty convincing. Here's another trick, I didn't want to use the column shifter, so I made a tall floor shift lever. I used a sewing needle glued onto a styrene base 'boot'. For the shift knob, I wanted to try out a technique, so I dipped the end of the shift lever (needle) into some UV set resin. Let the drop set up in the sunlight for a minute, then re-dipped (for a larger “ball”. Colored it with a purple sharpie (then dipped into some Future floor shine for extra gloss) & ta da! Custom translucent purple resin shift knob…! (not perfect, but not bad for ~10 minutes worth of work ) Now onto the Bare Metal Foil for the window trim, something I haven’t attempted until now. Since my (many) clear coats had filled in the molded in trim line, I was a little concerned about trimming it to a consistent width. Here’s a tool I made to score the BMF trim to a constant width. You can see I superglued (& use baking soda for reinforcement / quick set) an X-acto blade to a round tooth pick. (and by positioning the blade along the length of the tapered end, you can set the width of the cut line. Position closer to the tip, the trim would be wider / closer to the shaft, the trim cut would be narrower.) Carefully position the blade tip to the foil & the toothpick to the inside window opening then drag around the perimeter of the opening(s) here it is in a posed “action” shot to show technique. (I had to connect the straight cuts between the windows, but the edge cuts turned out pretty well. Still need to smooth out some of the areas. That’s where I’m at now, more to come Thanks for looking
  7. Good day all, I have a Pro-Spray Mk-2 airbrush and would like to know if 0.07 MPa supply is enough for general painting?
  8. Hi everyone, I'm new here. Working on my fourth car model and am trying to hone my skills. Currently trying to finish my Revell Germany Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG 1:24 model. I've been doing pretty well thus far. The only problem I have is that my body color: Chrome silver does not match my doors. I had a crappy airbrush (Master that I got cheaply on Amazon when I first started building car models) that has been getting worse and worse. I guess I didn't get enough paint on the doors and now the paint is lighter than on the doors and looks awfully strange. I was thinking of sanding down the doors and re-airbrushing them. Just bought an Iwata Revolution. Any tips on what I should do? I already assembled the doors to the body of the car and didn't realize the horrible contrast in color until they were on. Should I try to take them off of the body of the car, sand them down and repaint them, or is there a way that I can mask the body of the car without taking it apart to sand and repaint. Let me know if you have any suggestion. Thanks!
  9. Hey guys. I'm currently working on a Tamiya Porsche 959, which is one of my favorite cars. I've got the base coat down, which is white, and I plan on putting Martini Racing livery on it, specifically the Martini stripe along the car from the hood to the spoiler. It's three separate colors and the stripes are going to be pretty small, 1/16in at the smallest and 3/8in at the largest. How should I go about taping the car so that everything is straight, symmetrical, and there are no leaks? Thanks.
  10. I realized the other day,or actually right after i took up this hobby again that if i`m going to get the finish i want on parts and interior i need to get myself an airbrush. The rattle can works great,but in the long run it will become very expensive to buy a new box everytime i need a detail pantied. I`m new to airbrush,i have never used one so it`s nice if it is easy to use. I noticed this have sold close to 6000 examples,do you think it is any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/370268372610?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  11. Hey guys, I'm Caleb, owner of American Classic Models I have an old sears brand single-action bottom-feed airbrush, and I'm thinking about using it. I have all the other essentials, compressor, regulator, braided hose, etc, and it seems to look a lot like some of the new badger models, its older so keep in mind its probably built to last. Those cheap plastic starter airbrushes from hobby lobby don't do the trick. Just need some opinions on whether or not its good to use. Of course it will need a good cleaning. The model number is 364-15506 I think. Thanks guys, any help would be appreciated! Don't forget to check out my great friend, Jameston Kroon, over at www.scalefinishes.com for high-quality paints. -Caleb Here's the airbrush:
  12. Hi guys I am getting ready to buy my first airbrush. I have always brush painted all my parts on the trees & rattle canned the bodies. I really want to try out an airbrush and have to ask the experts what do you recommend me getting ? I have never used one before and dont want to buy one thats too difficult to use or buy something cheap and regret it. Thanks