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Scale I Build

Found 9 results

  1. Here a replica of a Top Fuel car from 1966. This is a scratch build, using original Don Long plans, and built to exact 1:25 scale. This is the 165" version from 1966. All metal, brass chassis and body panels, complete motor and Olds rearend, as well as rear wheels are cast nickel alloy parts. Fronts are laced, silver plated copper wire soldered to copper rims. Front axle is 2mm steel piano wire (wire is actually used for spring coils, but our hobby calls it piano wire). Paint is a mix of pink, white and dark flesh fingernail polish, with a top coat of clear gel fingernail paint. The body was primed using fingernail ridge filler....excellent for smoothing out micro scratches and dents!! Paint was applied with the brush from the bottle. First off, a series of WIP photos from the chassis build; Here with the motor block in proper scale and getting things situated in the chassis. Important here, the 8° dump (tilt of the motor), and the exact 23" from axle to firewall; Here a few photos of the body build and panels; Here a few motor related photos; Next, further assembly and finished car; Just finished the car today. Total of only 4 months bench time; That's it. Mike..
  2. For over twenty years, I have been pondering and preparing to build a replica of The Surfers dragster. I have now been educated by one Roger Lee as to why my two initial attempts to build the chassis were not right. Turns out that the things I'd read, and heard about the chassis, over the years, didn't provide the whole story. The plans from the old Popular Hot Rodding article are only useful for the front-half of the car, and for the roll cage, itself. The back-half, previously unbeknownst-to-me, was actually a copy of the chassis that Rod Stuckey built for Karamesines (not, as is most commonly written, an RCS/Frank Huszar chassis). Roger provided me a plan for that chassis, along with a couple of notes regarding the chassis. The car was front-halved by RCS, and they moved the differential uprights forward four inches--so, that's where that all came from. Armed with the two drawings, I used my favorite photo program to scale the drawings to one another, gave one some transparency, so I could see what I was doing, and overlaid them. I then imported that composite into AutoCAD, and drew the attached plan, using only the sections of each drawing that were pertinent to the Surfers car. I submitted the new drawing to Roger, and now my chassis drawing is "Riceman certified"! I'm about to head out on a couple of quick errands, but, I'll be melting solder, later this evening. I mentioned that I have been planning this project for many years. I wanted to make this my best piece. I have several new things I want to try with this project, not the least of which is to complete a project with a brass chassis, and an aluminum body. Now, I have done a body in aluminum, and a couple of "playing around" chassis, and I feel confident that I can put it all together!
  3. I just dug out this project I have barely looked at in nearly 20 years. I never had a decent camera, when I was working on it, so I figured I'd take some new photos of it--the way they came out, you might not suspect that I have a decent camera, now! The chassis is brass tubing and rod. The nose and tail sections are K&S tin sheet that I formed over wood bucks, then soldered. Rust is fairly evident, especially on the tail section. The rest of the body panels are tooling aluminum (before I discovered 5"X7" aluminum flashing), and would be re-created in flashing, should I ever decide to revive this thing. All the body mounting tabs are cut from K&S shim brass. I made a jig from plexiglass, so that I could cut and drill them, uniformly. I'm not sure what caused this project to stall, unless it was because one of my non-modeler friends bent the BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH out of the cowl--due to the softness of the tooling aluminum. I wish I could remember what I used to engine-turn the windscreens and firewall, because it's very nicely scaled! The engine mounted in the chassis is a late-model Donovan. Some of its "accessory" parts are visible, as well. In some of the shots, there is another engine. That one is a vintage Donovan I created using the block from the AMT Chrysler 300. I used Plastruct letters for the "nameplate" on the crank girdle. The oil pan and valve covers are laminated Evergreen strip and sheet. In one shot here, some of the smaller details are visible. These include the brake handle, chute release handles, master cylinder, Enderle barrel valve, throttle pedal, etc. I had originally planned to create graphics from the old Header Flames board on Nitronic Research. I'd still like to do that, but, it's not too likely that I can come up with art to work from, at this point. Comments and questions always welcome!
  4. The Project So Far... This project started as a Pocher Alfa Romeo 8C 2300 Kit in 2011, but has grown into a mostly scratch build in brass. I thought I’d post a few images of the build for the fine Modelers on this forum. Very few of the Pocher parts remain; the engine block halves are the original Pocher parts, but most other engine assemblies have been cast in white metal or built from scratch. The terrific Pocher wire wheels are being used as well as many metal fasteners. This car is an amalgam of my favorite features from several of the surviving examples. The cockpit panel is aluminum with machine turning details from a Dremel and small brush. The firewall is brass featuring a vintage Autovac unit, cast extra spark plugs, and wiring busses. The scratch built brass radiator with plumbing. Most engine parts are cast or scratch built. A brass alternator with wiring. The manifolds are cast from white metal. Supercharger details... The start of a brass chassis... Suspension assemblies are mostly scratch builds... The brass cockpit floor with scale hardware. Leaf spring assembly... The Pocher body is used as a body buck for fitting components. Brass steering wheel... The chassis is assembled. I will next add wiring assemblies a construct a metal body.
  5. https://whulsey.smugmug.com/Cars/2012-02-04-Motoring-Through/ Guess I'll post a show with some of my type of cars. Wouldn't post the show I wanted to guess the photos are too big. Is the limit around 3mb on size? Oh well, this is always a good show with lots of stuff I like.
  6. Hi all Unusually question. I am starting a new project with some brass finish parts. I have been experimenting with spray can brass (specifically Rustoleum) but not getting the "metallic shine" I desire. I know that Alclad has a high shine brass, but I do not have an airbrush. I do have those disposable Preval sprayers. The Alclad instructions call for it to be sprayed at 15-20 psi. The Preval sprayers go at around 60-70 psi. Anyone have any idea what would happen spraying the Alclad at 60-70 psi? Thanks for any information
  7. He's one of my current projects. I got this MM GTB in a box lot with a broken axle and seat. The tractor is a rather rare 1/16 scale model and in the $200.00 range so It needed to be saved.
  8. This car has been sitting in a case for a couple years now, but I want to actually build something for me for a change. So i'm going to try to get this and a couple other cars done in time for NNL 2012. This car is going to take some work. It was an early prototype that i used to test parts and work some things out. A lot of parts are going to have to be replaced throughout.. but it's a start.
  9. I built this car about a year and a half ago, but it's never been an MCM WIP, or shown in the Under Glass section. A couple of MCM regulars asked me if I had a few more pictures to share, so I thought that a mini WIP would provide them with some added pics and info on the car. So, to begin, I started with Revell's excellent 1:25th 40 Ford kit. The first order of business was to give it a hair cut. I sliced some Tamiya 6mm tape in half to create some ~3mm strips. These were used to remove a consistent scale 3" from the roof pillars. After adding some length back into the roof panel, it looked like the fit was close enough to continue.Notice how the B pillars were removed just below the drip rail in a "T" section. This will allow the pillar to be aligned with the lower pillar in the fore-aft direction. Still no putty yet. At this point the plastic used to lengthen the roof panel was filed down and primed. The roof was then glued in place with some liquid styrene cement. Considering I haven't reached to putty stage yet, the roof was looking pretty good. Still no putty yet. A layer of sheet styrene was added at the C pillar to provide enough material to level the roof panel with the stub on the body.
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