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Found 3 results

  1. I just picked a cup up yesterday at the Hy-Vee closest to me and think it needs some detail painting and maybe some glow in the dark paint. It seems like a fairly soft plastic and I intend to leave brown it's molded in the main color, but want to paint the eyes, teeth, brows, bone in the nose, all the V like shapes molded around the face, ect. What would be the best way to approach this? I'm think of starting with a coat of Future, or what ever it is now called, and apply the additional colors over that and maybe use some of the glow in the dark for things like he eyes, teeth, nose bone piercing, and V details then clear the daylights out of it so I can actually drink out of it at work. Anybody got any recommendations ?
  2. I am working on my second build. I have been watching videos and trying to figure out clear coating. Is the clear coat always a lacquer? I have seen a product called Pledge future being used. Is this considered a clear coat product, or does this go over at the clear coat to help just the shine? Is the process for painting the body; priming, color, then clear coat? I am a little confused. Also, do you clear coat every part of the car? Dashboard, seats, motor, chassis, ETC? I have noticed that in my second build my seats and interior tub doesn't look to shiny. I guess this is where you would clear coat? Sorry for the dumb questions, just new and want to have a better build the next time. Thank you,
  3. Hi all: I have painted only four bodies before, all from testor's One Coat metallics. I use Tamiya fine primer and have never had issues. I only use spray can paint as I don't have the budget for everything involved with air brush, hydrator, etc. There have been a few issues with dust which I've lightly wet sanded out based on instructions here. I'm not a perfectionist and don't enter shows. This is my hobby to ease pain from a disability. Only recently have I tried painting with Tamiya as the topcoat. I used almost the same technique as for primer: three mist coats checking for dust or imperfections and correcting them. The primered body gets wiped with a tack cloth or rubbing alcohol using dust free painting gloves. The color coats get three mist coats 15-20 mins. apart to allow for a tackiness to develop and then a final coats are applied. Those coats I fear the most as I have had runs and what you might call "fisheye bubbles" develop which require up to 3-4 days drying time so I can sand them out and re-shoot the area carefully. Smaller dust particles might get 3-4000 wet sanding to fix but if I've not used 2-3 heavy coats I'm afraid it might get to the primered area. I just used my first can of Tamiya lacquer to spray a funny car body and although it looks nice, I didn't go heavy on the one coat after misting for fear of messing it up. It's dried and has been for two days. I'm not going back to using Future, and I understand I now must wait up to 4 days before applying clear. I will be using Tamiya to be consistent with all paint products. If I had applied the clear within 20 minutes of the last coat, I believe I could have shot 2 coats right away. This is important as I have 6 finished builds waiting to paint, along with 2 in WIP! Is it possible to re-dust it now and try to add another coat of the same Tamiya base? If not, what purpose would adding a clear coat be? If someone here could examine my techniques and point out where I could improve, I would appreciate it. As you might tell, I love detailing drag race cars but HATE to paint!
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