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Scale I Build

Found 3 results

  1. i cant get my prewired dist wires to go through the holes in the detail master looms . whats up
  2. I tried to find a tutorial on this forum for doing the Detail Master racing harness (seatbelts), and other places, but no luck. This was an early set, had thin tissue paper that was supposed to be painted. I see the current offering has the sewing ribbon, which IMHO would be impossible to use with this. I also don't like the fuzzy look after it gets crammed through photo-etch. I also don't like the belt material in Studio 27 seatbelts, the back side is not the same color, and it gets fuzzy. I now prefer using color paper from the craft section (Hobby Lobby, Michaels, etc.) My first pass was using regular black paper, with no texture it's tricky to keep track of which side is up. The later sets use textured red paper, not exactly to scale, but other colors have a finer and more consistent linen texture, and it's slightly thicker than plain paper. I had trouble with the sequence of assembly using the instructions, had to modify to work, and not having pictures but tiny one dimensional images was a challenge. This is my method of assembly that was good enough for government work. As with anything, having the right tools is key. I used superglue because the last stage uses water, and it's faster. Having tiny scissors is better than trashing the knife blade. Need to have clamping tweezers. Whatever glue applicator tip that works for you is fine. The first set, I cut the belts as shown in the pattern, don't do that! Each one had a slight variation in width. Just cut an 8 1/2 inch (width of the paper) strip, you might use it up. On some steps, you can cut the end after screwing up a couple of times with the photo-etch. In fact, I cut all belts longer, and trimmed after the photo-etch was done. This is optional. You could sand with 1000+ grit first, then polish too. Scale Motorsport photo-etch is awesome shiny to begin with. I found that using my finger worked best, wash really good before proceeding. Instructions say to use tape, I prefer using the tweezers. Just a suggestion: Just like cleaning plastic parts when removed from the sprue, I think this step is essential. I didn't know that I needed this tool until recently. I don't know what all the notches are for, the two screws work to hold the part in place, that's all I care about. I position into place with a toothpick, lessens scratches. It's hard to get the razor blade under a short part sticking out, you need a minimum of this dimension (IMO). Like this... Sure beats using pliers. One of the clips has 3 bends, tool worked great. For this part, putting the slot under the bender kept it flat. This is where I modified from the instructions. Look at the real thing before taking my word for it. I bent all the photo-etch before adding the belts. The most confusing step in the instructions was dealing with the adjuster, looked like there are four, but there are only two. There is no way to push two belts through that slot, so I did only the top belt. Again, first pass with cutting the belts per instructions, waste of paper. Take a break, do breathing exercises while doing stretches, use eye drops if necessary. 👀
  3. Quick question How big, are the detail master tachometers? I seen that detail master has tachometers for kits. I am wondering what do they look like all together on a dash or even in the dash. I want to buy a few but want to know more about them in general. I'm having a hard time finding dash photo's with the part on them. Are they as hard to put together as a distributor from the company?
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