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Found 5 results

  1. As if I didn’t have enough going on, I picked up a few more projects his week- I found a cheap 1957 Fairlane 500 built model with some home-made ‘mods’, jacked up back end, an upside down rear bumper and blacked-out glassware: Somewhere out of this ‘beauty’ I shall create a beast (or should that be vice-versa?) I think its going to be very smooth and low, as yet undecided on the colour, but I have a few ideas. I won some custom wheels and rubber on the ‘bay that will be added to this fine auto, perhaps some drag slicks squeezed under there.... As bought..... wheel choice? Thanks for looking, more to come.
  2. Dug this 2+2 out of my gluebomb pile soon after I finished the '70 Bonneville last year. The leftover cargo bed and roof seemed like a decent fit into the '65... Comments always welcome.
  3. I have reached the the end of this glue bomb disaster and my figurative rope on this one. Unless im a complete ID10T there is no way to build the tanker trailer in the short bed version straight out of the box.I put it at 20 scale feet by adding 1.22" in length. Allthough i do love the Dodge l-700 i wouldn't recommend this kit unless you are willing to spend all the extra time involved in fixing many flaws in this kit,most notable is the tractor front wheel spindles,and then there was the cab hinge,fixing the ride height of the tractor,i could go on but im sure most of you know all to well about this kit. So,without further adu My TAT Dodge L-700 and tanker trailer
  4. Last night I finished up my month long project of rebuilding an old AMT glue bomb 32 Ford I bought in a lot from my friend Pat. What I learned along the way is this: 1) kitbashing and restoring old kits is a lot of work, but fun as well. 2) I am not a contest builder. I build what I like and how I like and do it for myself and not for a blue ribbon. This is what I started with, a box stock, old AMT 5 Window 32 Ford. There was plenty of glue used on this kit. As I began to take it apart, the immense amount of glue used was becoming apparent. I initially scored and cut off the front fenders and running board with a hobby knife then decided not to use the one piece construction in favor of channeling the body over the frame. The existing engine is what I planned to use but was so covered in glue that only the chrome parts could be removed without breaking anything. This engine stopped just before the transmission as it continued as a molded part to the chassis. A new donor engine came from my parts box but had to be heavily modified, cut and sanded to fit in the old AMT chassis. I ordered a pre-wired distributor (my first) and installed it based on photo references of a 1:1 flathead engine found online. The headers were drilled out for spark plug wires using a Dremel tool then painted Testors aluminum. This was my first pre-wired distributor. The firewall would need to come off as it would be a different color than the body of the car. Most of it came off in pieces, except one part near the top. Using nippers and a blade it finally got removed. The cowl was then sanded smooth with fine grit sandpaper. A firewall from my old parts box from the 80's fit perfectly. Using Swiss files I notched out the firewall so it would match up with the rails that were now channeled under the body. It was later modified to accept the new, larger engine. I ordered two sets each of AMT's new Custom & Competition Firestone Champion whitewall tires and whitewall Racemaster Dragster Slicks. Piecrust whitewalls slicks on the rear and whitewall Firestones on the front, mounted on parts box steelies just how I like it. The steelies were primed then painted Testors Dark Red Gloss. Thanks to MCM members for letting me there was a difference between front and rear steelies. I would not have known otherwise. Later I was able to salvage the caps fromt he original kit's spoked rims and they fit nicely on the steelies. The axles that came with the built kit must have been from a die cast kit as they were a little too long, but I got new ones, a whole pack of them, from Jerry at NNL this past Saturday in Severna Park, MD. I measured then drilled new holes for the radiator shell with a pin vise so it sits at same height as the cowl and makes front look even lower. This ended up being a better solution than cutting a portion of the radiotor shell out. The front suspension was replaced with a chromed one from my old parts box. This one looked better and allowed the front end to sit lower. I altered it by shaving off the top three leaf springs and mounted it on the crossmember. I don't mind a bumpy ride. The windshield frame was broken and since I didn't have a replacement, I just fixed it. It ain't pretty but it's there. The windshield had a lot of glue on it from the original builder of the kit and I cleaned it up as best as I could since again I didn't have a replacement. I can live with that. It's not road legal as a 1:1 and doesn't have any headlights or exhaust system, but I dig it anyway. This is what was left over from this project. On to the finished product:
  5. OK guys, I figured if anyone had an answer, it would be here. Is there anything out there that will soften the glue on a glue bomb without hurting the plastic. I found a trailer suspension in a parts box that I acquired elsewhere and it was put together with a more than necessary amount of what looks like Testors goop glue. And then to add to that it was never painted. If there are some good tips out there......let me know please. I would greatly appreciate it.
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