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Easy, cheap, works perfectly and fits any hobby paint bottle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7jwhy7neaI
I have styrine tubing ( round and square) and sheet in all sizes, want to learn some tips o how to bend the rods and not deform them and how to detriment how to make it all fit in the truck or car. Any info or links will be grateful
Hey Guys, I have a How-To for the experts. I bought a '70s Pantera that came without a drive train. I want to build a 427 Ford and trans axle. Has anyone ever done this? It will not be easy, but will make a cool build. Thanks for any help. Ray
So, I was fiddling with my detail work in my diorama today and realized that I have a unique way of making my own signage for my builds. Whether it's for caution signs, propaganda posters, or just random detail work, this is how I do it. First things first, I think of -what- it is I wanted to make, and then open up a photo/paint program (for this tut, I will just say MSpaint, but you can get better results and detail with photoshop or gimp 2.6- the freeware version of photoshop). I then open up google images, and then type in what it is I am looking for. For example, I wanted some propoganda posters, industrial safety signs, and some spreadsheet looking images for my dio. Once you find something you want to use, right click the -thumbnail- of the picture you want. this will provide you with a good start for your scale picture. Click "copy image" and then open up your paint window and press ctrl+v. Voila, you have just started a page of "decals" for your model. Resize the "floated" image to your liking (i usually pop it down about 50-75% myself) before left clicking the open space to complete the pasting, and repeat for however many images you need. I usually fill my sheet before printing it out, so as not to waste paper- and I always make at least two copies just in case i make a cutting or detailing mistake. Once you've got your printed images, cut them out as neatly as possible. I use my #11 blade and a straight edge for this, however you can use whatever you feel comfortable with. Take your cut-outs and line the back side with a light spread of superglue (I use superglue because it gives a good rigidness for one of my later steps) and lay it evenly on another sheet of computer paper. Flatten it with a paper towel in a swift motion to get rid of air bubbles, and let cure for ten minutes. Do this with each one, making sure to keep them even and straight. From this step you have a multitude of options. You can coat them with a light brushover of clearcoat (flat or gloss, depending on what you want) to give it a nice, clean look- Or you can "age" them like I did with mine. To age your signage, take the appropriate color for the material your signage is representing (for mine, I used Citadel Colors' Yellow Ink, since my signage is representing paper-based materials) and set it to the side. Take your #11 blade and flat-edge it against your glued cutouts. Give them a good light scrape around the edges, and a few lighter scrapes evenly down the middle. Done correctly, this should make for a good faded look (and the rigidness of the superglue bond helps tremendously with this) to start with. You then take a small flat-edged brush (one with medium bristles) and "wash" your cutouts in their appropriate ink lightly. remember to dab them off as you go with a dry paper towel, and then let them dry out. Once they've dried, use the same method you used earlier to make your cutouts to remove the signage from the sheet, making sure to keep your cuts even and straight. Your are now ready to glue your home-made signage to your diorama or model (for which I also recommend superglue)! After gluing, feel free to fine-detail your signage with paint or inks to your specific liking. I hope this tutorial comes in handy for you guys!