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Found 13 results

  1. Hi folks, I got this recently from a modelling mate as a built kit amongst other stuff. As we all know, these days these Jo-Han kits come very expensive when bought new, so I took the opportunity to get this one at a very fair price, although it took quite some work because the front quarters had heavy dents on both sides since the kit was new. Of course, repairing those spots meant losing the beautiful "Dart 440" enblems, but that was the price to pay. I sanded down those spots and used Tamiya putty and sandable superglue for filling the dents. Then again sanding to make it fit to the body's contours. The result turned out okay in my eyes. Your feedback, as always, will be appreciated.
  2. I finally finished this one in time for NNL Milwaukee: Before I say anything else, I have to thank master modeler Tom Piagari for his help and inspiration. He laid down the paint (Krylon Pewter Gray) and the two-part urethane clear that ended up needing very little buffing, plus demonstrated his technique for the vinyl top (a combination of gloss and flat black sprayed from a distance to give a great textured finish). The Coupe deVille emblems were cast from a '70 Caddy - the only time Jo-Han used the correct scripts.
  3. Had a little surprise when I was repairing the windshield header on the '67 Chrysler vert a while ago. The header had a break which I drilled out and pinned to make a strong fix, and I dabbed on a small amount of Zap-A-Gap CA glue. When I was dabbing I noticed the green color of the plastic was coming off on the toothpick I was applying the CA with, and indeed the plastic melted a little bit when I put the parts together, just like regular cement does with styrene. I always thought CA didn't do that; is there something in Zap-A-Gap that affects some types of plastic? Over to the experts...
  4. The weather's finally warm enough for painting, so I've been laying some paint on a few projects that need them. Based on a car that was owned by a Mrs. Little, who eventually donated the car back to GM. Testor's Model Master Ford Engine Red turned out to be a decent match for the "Satan Red" exterior, while the interior is Humbrol #60 Matt Scarlet. Humbol Ivory was a closed enough match for the "Puritan White" wheels on the original.
  5. Need a set of Jo-Han '61 Plymouth taillights or even one to copy, OR the measurements of the pods so I can scratchbuild a set (overall length, diameter, and distance from the ends to the mounting posts; I'll use '62 Plymouth lenses if I have to). Also a set of wheelcovers OR at least one to make a mold. Finally, a junk body with a good deck lid would be great. Thanks!
  6. As the title says I need a Jo-Han '59 Dodge dashboard; doesn't need to be in perfect shape as I'm going to modify it for a '59 DeSoto (the shape is a better match than the AMT Chrysler 300 dash). So if you have a banged-up original or resin copy I could use it. Thanks as always!
  7. Although I have license plates to put on it, I'm marking this one done for now. I'm also in the market for a front script in either a decal or photoetch as I couldn't get BMF to look right. Body: Tamiya Gloss Black Top: Tamiya Flat Black Interior: Tamiya Maroon with cloth headliner Resin casket
  8. I've had a Jo-Han '64 Dodge project in limbo for a few years, because the original kit came with a Polara 500 interior (buckets and different door panels) but a non-500 body and wheelcovers sourced from the promo. Finding a promo interior with the split bench and correct upholstery has been futile - even wrecked Dodge promos are expensive, and Modelhaus doesn't make one. Well, this evening I was looking through parts on eBay, and found someone had parted out a USA Oldies reissue '62 Dodge. I took a look at the interior bucket, and saw it was actually the '64 Dodge promo piece! I remember some mixing and matching was done with these kits in the '70s because some molds were missing; looks like they took the '64 interior and the '63 dash and steering wheel, then modified the package shelf to fit the curved '62 rear window (not a hard fix). You can see where there was a slight mod to fit the dash, but a little trimming will fix that. Best part is I already have an NOS interior from a '62 I parted out long ago. I know there won't be too many of you building a stock '64 Dodge Polara, but hopefully this will save someone some expense/work/aggravation. P.S. Don't forget you can find more accurate Polara wheelcovers in the AMT clear trailer kit (sourced from the old '65 Coronet - they're the same as '64).
  9. I saw one of these for sale at a local Model Car Show for a good price. It was still sealed, so I kept it on my shelf for a while, but now I had to open it to see what's inside. My hopes weren't very high with this kit, because I knew it's a Snap Kit and I saw how few parts there were from the building instructions that are on the side and bottom of the box. The body shapes look very good to me, but it has lots of flash and mold lines to be removed. Also there are a couple of major sink marks that will need some filler. Overall, it looks good, though, but if you want to add an engine and opening hood, you'll need to do a lot of work with styrene and/or kitbashing. I'm not going that route with mine, I'll build this as a Curbside Stock Eliminator Drag Car, and then my '73 Chevelle will be a Full Detail build. Chassis is really simplified, too. Only separate parts are plastic axles and wheel/tire combos. Everything else is molded in, so careful detail painting is required. Tires are really nice with beautiful white walls, as in many other Jo-Han kits, so they should look good when the model is done. Interior is very simple, too. It is built from four parts, tub with molded in.... Well, it's easier to tell what is Not molded in: Dash, steering wheel and shifter. Everything else is molded in, so careful detail painting is required there as well. I'm bit disappointed because it has bucket seats, as I'd have preferred a bench seat. I can't say much about the windows, because the ones my kit had, are from some other Jo-Han kit. Chrome parts look very good, though some flash can be found. But otherwise they look great. I'm just afraid of painting the black areas on bumbers...
  10. I bought this kit from a Model Car Show in November. Yes, I finished it pretty fast. The plan was to build a Surf Wagon/Mild Custom and this is really a Part One of this project. I'll be building a V8 Drag Boat and Trailer, too, and the Oldsmobile will be the hauler for those. I thought about building this one with only some modifications to make it look a bit better. But when I saw the kit's interior tub, I knew that something needed to be done. After some thinking, I ended up scratchbuilding new door panels from sheet styrene. I was going to install the interior on the chassis floor, so I had to use some styrene to fill some gaps and holes from the upside of the chassis pan. Also the trunk (Floor and sidewalls) was scratchbuilt from styrene. Backseat is from Revell's '69 Nova with some styrene added, front seats come from my parts box and center console is from AMT '57 Ford with some cutting and modifying. I used flocking on the floor and painted the interior gold, as it matches well to the body color. Engine needed some modifications, too. There was a metal axle hole on the block that was so high that it almost hit the cylinder heads. I filled it, added a carburetor and did some detailing for the engine. Though, I wanted to keep it simple, because this kit's engine bay was really simplified and I didn't feel like modifying that area. That air tube on air cleaner is made from metal and I black washed the engine a bit to give it some depth. Chassis has molded in axles and everything. I kept the rear end as it is, I just installed the axles I made as low as possible. On the front I filled the axle holes on the chassis and didn't use any axles at all. I just glued the tires on correct spot once the body was installed on the chassis. Body has no body mods. It's just painted with Tamiya TS-20 Metallic Green and Clear Coat. Then I polished it, put the BMF on and made windows from acetate, since the kit parts didn't fit. Grille was detailed with paint: Detailer black wash, some paint for the chromed Headlights and flat black. It was really tricky to paint that part so, that there was no need to wipe excess paint off from the letters. Register plates are Finnish, and they don't mean "Old-51" as someone might wonder, it's "Oldsi" that is a Finnish Word for "Olds". I finished this on Friday for a Model Car show that was Yesterday. And as my surprise, it won the Custom Car class!
  11. I bought this exactly two years ago as a Glue Bomb. Pictures of the starting point can be seen Here. So it is Jo-Han's Sox & Martin kit, which I decided to build as a Pro Stocker that could run in Nostalgia Events nowadays. First I took the whole thing apart and stripped the paint. The actual building process started from the engine, where I filled the metal axle hole in the engine block. After that I painted and assembled the engine. Those Spark Plug Wires were a real pain, since I've never liked making them and now I had to install 16 wires! Carburetors are original Jo-Han parts, but I drilled out the Carburetor Throats (?) and added the Nozzles (?). The carburetor linkage is built with Detail Masters' Photo Etch parts and metal wire. For the Chassis, I added a separate Front Axle system from my Parts Box. It fit with some cutting and slicing. Wheelie bars were added, too, as well as brake and fuel lines. Otherwise it's Box Stock. When I glued the engine on place, I built the fuel lines. They were done with Pro Tech Braided Line (Great stuff!). Those fittings were built from plastic tubing. Fuel Pressure Regulators were also scratchbuilt. The body needed some work before paint. I glued front and rear panels on place and smoothed the seams. Same thing with the Two-Piece Scoop. The hood pins were removed and later on I installed Photo Etch parts there. Paint is straight from a spray can and same thing with the clear coat. After those, I polished the body, but when I was removing masking tape from the body after polish, part of the clear coat came off just over the Hemi Decal. Luckily decal didn't damage, though. Windows are sheet plastic and I had to modify the rear bumber to make it fit. I added some length on the sides of it so it would match the body better. The chute is from Lindberg's '64 Dodge and I detailed it as well as I could. Also the Chromed Headlights were painted to make them look a bit more realistic. Well here are the pics.
  12. Yesterday at Local Model Car Show I spotted one Jo-Han Pinto FC for sale. The first thing that caught my eye was the box, it was just like brand new! Since the price tag was 25 Euros, which is currently $32, I decided to buy it since there can never be enough Jo-Han kits in my stash! The kit was unstarted, only taillight lenses are missing. Maybe I need to scratchbuild them... The plan is to build something that could have raced Back In The Day, with three-color paint scheme that will be something similar to the one in that box art. The engine is a Boss 429 (?) so all detail pics of those FC engines would be highly appreciated. I have some pics already, but still lots of details are unknown. I started by cutting the Rear Window cover with "Pinto" text away, since I want to have a real rear window in this build. Then, after sanding those mold seams away, I put some Bondo on the body to fix a couple of bad spots. Tomorrow I'll sand them and see if it is already a time for primer coat. Also I started cleaning up the chassis parts, but I have no pics of them yet. Here are pics of what was inside the box. http://public.fotki.com/NostalgicDrag/johan-ford-pinto-fc/
  13. I built this Jo-Han '70 Oldsmobile box stock in 2003. I forget where I found this kit, but was thrilled to get it and get it cheap, I think around $10 - $15. It's not much to look at and Jo-Han didn't offer as much detail as AMT, Revell or even MPC, but I did love their kits. The body was painted a nice late 60's, early 70's green and the engine compartment flat black. The engine was painted red, even though it's hard to see here in this photo. Sadly, this guy fell off the shelf a few years ago and a small piece of the rear quarter panel chipped off.
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