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1970 Trans Am Rivals Last 2 builds of 2022 Revell 1970 Mustang Boss 302 built as the Bud Moore Trans Am race car. Doors and trunk opened, wheel arches bulged, engine rebuilt with scratch built induction, roll gage added, fuel cell and trunk detail added, R & M Minilite wheels, decals from 5 sources, and custom Tamiya paint and trim. AMT 1970 ½ full bumper Camaro Z28 built as Jim Hall Trans Am race car. Doors and trunk opened, wheel arches bulged, R & M Minilite wheels, engine rebuilt and under hood ram air tunnel added, roll gage added, fuel cell and trunk detail added, decals from Pattos Place from Australia, and rattle can refrigerator white paint.

HI everyone!😄 this is my 1/25 AMT '67 shelby GT-350 this kit got some issues..I try to build it as good as I could.. not perfect...but I am happy with this result.. hope you guys like it!😄 and here is the video build if you are interested:😄

Revell kit mostly OOB, but had some simplified bits (which are actually carry overs from the snap-tite Shinoda Boss kit) swapped out with guts from the '99 Cobra. Front suspension was missing springs and shocks, so that and IRS came from the 99. However, while the interiors are the same sans small differences in door panels and seats, the SS's chassis had to be swapped with the Cobra's as the former had indents that were meant for the solid rear axle setup and wouldn't work with the IRS. My kit despite being sealed, had a horribly deformed (short shot?) steering wheel, so I found a replacement parts one from what appears to be a Monogram '70 Mustang Boss. The one off 5.4 DOHC engine (just DOHC heads on a SOHC truck 2 valve motor, which is different than the 4.6) while somewhat simplified and based on the 5.0 in the Shinoda Boss, was used as is considering you won't see much of it with the supercharger and all. However, the '99 Cobra's exhaust had to have the tips trimmed so it would not interfere with the body-to-frame fit frame and also had the tranny cross-member at a different place and shape and wouldn't work with the 5.4. So out went that and in came the brace from the Super Stallion chassis that was cut and placed to aprox it's original location. Paint is Testors Color Shift Emerald Turquoise cleared with Pledge. Color looks like a metal flake British Racing Green in the pics, though in certain lighting you can see somewhat of a shift to Blue.

In 1964 Ford sent 4 early Mustangs to Alan Mann in England to prepare for rallying and exposure to the European market. Three of them were prepped and ran in the major rally events and one was kept as a spare, kind of a rolling parts bin. The spare, DPK 4B, was left with Scuderia Filipinetti in Switzerland and raced and rallied by them. #50 is the 1965 Gaisberg Hill Climb number. The model: So here is my version of the DPK 4B built from a 1/24 Welly Mustang. It differs from the other three as it still had its full trim. I lowered it and added NASCAR wheels and printed decals for it except for the Scuderia lettering which I had to buy from Spain. Reference - Racing History (ponysite.de)

Happy Summer all,,,between mowing,yard fix up,,ect had some time to finish this "leftover parts box " Stang. I think its the ol MPC "Pro Street Mustang" from years ago. It has "Fun Dimensions" cast on the bottom of chassis,,so looked around on web and the only thing I could find was the MPC kit. It has the tilt nose front end,,but I attached the front ,,made it just a lift style setup. The Mtr is from parts leftovers bx as are the rims/tires,,axles,scratch built the wheelie bar set, egg crate grill,,and added some x-tra wing on back. And basic wiring ect. A 'what if" car,,but Ive seen some 1:1 vids on YT of similar cars. Fun cars indeed,,,now on to my brand new MPC 72 chevy ramp truck,,looks like a fun one,,Cheers. S

Has anyone put the 1/25 Revell Snap Tite Mustang convertible body/interior on the detailed glue kit fastback engine/chassis?

Got this with a gift card from work last year. Been meaning to get around to building it. Over all it's a pretty nice kit. However, the stripes are a nightmare to put on and are a little too long. Came out nice though. SAM_0632 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0633 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0634 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0635 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0636 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr

hi everyone !😄 this is my REVELL 1/24 'GT 350 H, I once build mustang 2+2 fastback couple months ago,I just love mustang...this time I try to build the famous GT350H,I add some modification and detail patrts on it..the black paint is quite tricky I try to build this model as good as I could, still, there are some defects on this model🙁,but I just love this car😅..... hope you guys like it!!🙂 and here is the video build if you are interested..🙂

Here’s my build of the ‘94 Mustang Cobra Indy Pace car. Overall this is a very well designed kit and it goes together very nicely. The body is painted Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red over red oxide primer. It was polished with Tamiya Finish compound, followed by a coat of Pledge floor gloss. Interior and top are Tamiya XF-93 Light Brown, along with semigloss black accents, with a single coat of floor gloss on the vinyl and leather surfaces. Wheels are TS-30 Silver Leaf. The decals were very thin and fragile but I managed to get them down without any tears, applied before the floor gloss coat. I’m very pleased with this one, and I’m one model closer to my collection of every Mustang generation!

It has been nearly a year since I finished a build, but it’s nice to finally have another lump of styrene for the display shelf. This ‘89 Mustang GT was started early last year and after making quick progress on the drivetrain and interior the work stalled for a while as other builds and shiny objects grabbed my attention. The body was prepped and primed, then doused with some vintage DupliColor Ford Light Gray that I’d spotted for 99 cents at Ollie’s about 10 years ago. It was a color I remembered from the 70s and 80s and just needed a build to suit it. After the color and clear coats, it was sanded and polished before mating it with the interior and chassis. These 80s and 90s Fox platform Monogram kits are rather simple yet I prefer them to the MPC/AMT variants of the same era. I remember buying the first version of these when it was released in ‘87 as The New Monkee’s Mustang. That kit incorrectly had the pre-‘87 interior, engine, and chassis but the body seemed more accurate for the ‘87+ than the MPC version of the GT Hatch that was also just hitting the KMart shelves. Later releases of the Monogram ‘Vert like this one corrected the interior and included a reasonably accurate updated 5.0 HO with F/I. This later version also had an accurate decklid luggage rack that the Monkee’s version lacked. It went together relatively easily without much fuss. The most challenging aspect of these kits has always been the simulated louvered taillights. If Monogram hadn’t penny pinched, they could have molded the tails as two or three piece units with separate lenses and louvered covers. As they are, however, it makes for a tricky and stressful bit of work to get them reasonably accurate. It could be worse, though, as the MPC/AMT kits had the entire lens/louver units molded into the body. There’s a great low mileage example of this car and color combo that a quick web search located, so it became the reference for the build and its details.

Just finished Revell's 1969 Boss 302 Mustang. I used a custom mixture of Decoart Jack O' Lantern Orange and Folkart Lipstick Red for the color ( I was going for Calypso Coral, I think I got pretty close) and cleared it with Tamiya TS-13 Clear Gloss. The same colors, but with a slightly different mixture, were used for the chassis. The interior is just Apple Barrel Black with Pledge brushed on the seats, dash, and door panels for the sheen, while the woodgrain is all kit decals. The hood was painted with Krylon Short Shots Flat Black with a quick polish of Novus #2. I used BMF for the window trim, brushed on Molotow for the grille trim, and added heater hoses, ignition wires, door locks , and valve stems for extra detail. This is a great kit, although I wish the interior were a little more detailed, and everything fit together very well. I may have to buy and build another, lol. Thanks for looking!!

Just finished up this little ‘66 Mustang from AMT. As many have said here before, this kit is definitely lacking in detail and accuracy under the hood and on the chassis, but the body and interior detail out nicely. The fit is actually not bad considering the kit’s age but there was a ton of flash in my example. I accidentally glued the radiator support in backwards so the battery is on the wrong side. But again it isn’t accurate under the hood anyway so I let it go. I was shooting for the ‘66 factory Ivy Green body color so I painted it Tamiya’s TS2 Dark Green. It looks closer to Bullitt’s Highland Green to me, which is not a bad thing! I cleared it with three coats of Pledge floor gloss and lightly polished that out with Tamiya finish compound. Trim is silver sharpie that was applied and left to dry for several days before I did the Pledge Gloss. I painted the interior Tamiya XF-17 Sea Blue, with two coats of Pledge Gloss on the seats, dash, console and door cards. Sea blue is an interesting color that looks like a dark charcoal on its own, but looks more blue next to blue objects and more green next to green objects. So I think it looks great next to this dark green body. I’m slowly building one Mustang from every major generation/ redesign/ facelift and am pleased to have this one as my O.G. example!

Saw a rendering by Ragle of a Mustang race-concept protouring and said I have to build this. Starting with the AMT Shelby GT-350 Looked at variations for stance, not doing this, just to show what the wheels and tires I will be using look like in a stock position Thought about tucked in the wheel wells... nah... everyone does this with building an Eleanor... Drew out a starting position for trimming... Trimmed out a lot more than I first thought... This is the stance I was looking for and the rendering by Ragle Started the flares... Added the front sail-vent behind the front wheel and modified the side window opening to give it a new lower-chopped look. Also added a deeper body line tying the front sail-vent to the rear scoop and molded it all in. Note the smaller side sail scoop, I think it looks better cut down by a third of the orginal size, this will be moilded in as well.. Created the rear sail-vent behind the rear wheel... haven't decided if I will change the shape of it yet... Feedback? Finally... in primer 3/6... Primary body mods are complete, next is custom racing chassis with ground effects package, splitters, air-dams and rear diffuser

This is the Revell snap-together 2015 Mustang kit. This was my first try with aftermarket parts: wheels, tires, and disc brakes & calipers; photo-etched radio dial, speaker grills, and various Mustang emblems; military lenses for the front lights positioned under the grill; and acetate instrument panel dials. The rear-view and side mirrors are from an unbuilt ’69 Mustang kit. I drilled holes in the side mirrors and receiving holes in the body and used thin pieces of wire to act as pegs for mounting. I fabricated exhaust pipes from aluminum tubing. I found some photos of the real headlights, printed them out and cut them to size for the body openings. For the back license plate, I used photo-etched Mustang and GT emblems on the plate holder from the unbuilt ’69 kit. The paint is Testors Mystic Emerald green.

Howdy all,,this is the Revell muscle series 2n1 kit,,I decided to do the race version. And as always I do a different paint scheme than what is normally pictured on box art. Here I was in a "Shelby" N "Shindona" mood when I built this,,hence the blue w/white stripes,,and the spoiler on trunk,,blacked out rear lens area. Air scoops on sides behind doors. Revell did a great job with the motor choices,,interior and everything else,,, looks good,,but I dont understand the design of the rims with the "ribs" going all around the insides making it near impossible to mount the tires on? Really? I always like the traditional 2 pc rims that can be put together 1/2 at a time as I always paint my rims one way or another on most builds. And after painting these I kept the front rims after dremmeling off "The Ribs" on rims for front,,and changed the back rims to traditional Rally 2 pc rims. Used testors quikdry blue,,hand painted the rest, all in all,,I happy with the kit,,I have yet to build the Hemi Cuda Muscle series kit,,fun kits ,,and they look decent when done. We now return you to your regularly scheduled program.

Here’s my latest, an ‘83 Mustang GLX convertible by Monogram. This is a fun little kit that goes together pretty well. My only issues were due to this particular kit’s rough shape, and the up-top and frame being slightly warped. Also the rubber tires were rock hard so I had to hog out the insides to get the wheels to fit. I built it mostly box stock with some metal transfer emblems added. The body is painted Tamiya TS39 Mica Red over TS30 Silver Leaf, and the interior is Tamiya XF55 Deck Tan, with one coat of Pledge gloss over the body, up-top and parade boot. It’s not perfect, but this is my best paint job thus far! So I’m very happy with this one.

My goal is to build the worst Foxbody I can imagine. I'm starting with AMT's 88 GT kit. I am using a few unused bits from a 90LX that Revell released, I recently built as well. I will be scratching out whatever I need to complete the vision. Enjoy... Went into primer... I am going with a targa roof instead of T-Tops. I was having trouble getting the lower front valance so i cut the whole clip off and worked these pieces together. This is how the real car is built, so I figured nothing would look funny once it's all together. The fog lights have beaten out of their housings and the airdam is far from aerodynamic. This thing will be several colors, so perfection isn't my aim here. Scribed the panel lines, worked the dents into the body with candle heat. I'm giving this hog beast the big cowl hood to clear what I believe to be a stroked, nitrous huffing Chevy motor. This heap will be a fully neglected death trap, complete with improper safety equipment and unsafe components. Peep these bald 4 lug OEM front wheels... Sure it does 11's but the only thing holding it together is a thick coat of grime and rust... I've seen 1 foxbody in my whole life that had a stereo in it. The glovebox latch is broken and the passenger door panel is long gone. Got some color laid out and I am going to keep the patina for now. Focusing on interior, I found a grant style aftermarket wheel that was screaming for a trip back to the 80's. Scratched out a ratchet shifter and some nitrous tanks. Color and Style... With the tall valve covers I believe this to be a stroker setup on a 350 cast. Wired and plumed all the bits as best as I can tell. Manual brakes, no A/C, no power steering, cut the heater lines, so not much needed under the hood... I scratched out the harmonic balancer, alt bracket, serp belt, plug wires, wet shot intake and brake lines. It's running shorty headers, and I had to reverse the oil pan instead of modifying the K member 🤫 But it all tucks in nicely. It's going to have electric fans, but I'm having trouble with the core support fitting properly. Can you spot the coolant leak? This is where I am now. 7 months and counting...

Hi there & happy New Year to you all. Looking for some oddball items. Have some '69 Camaro stuff '66 Fairlane & other stuff kicking to trade. AMT 1/43(!) '69 Fastback ft. bumper/grill & rr. bumper '90 LX police parts (computer, radio, light bar etc.) & hood Any MPC early 80's Mustang chassis and suspension parts Finally I think I think I've seen an early 80's notchback in resin. (Like 82-86) Does this actually exist? Thanks for the help.

Here’s my first for 2021, a ‘79 Mustang Turbo Hatch. It’s from MPC’s first issue of the Fox Body, the Mustang Turbo Cobra kit. It took several attempts to score this kit from eBay... and I spent way too much for it ? but I am ecstatic to have an early Fox Body in my collection! The fit and detail on this kit is really nice, with only some minor trimming to get the body to mate the chassis properly. Unfortunately, the original Cobra decals were in poor condition so I just built it as the regular Turbo trim. It’s painted Tamiya X-7 red with XF-55 deck tan for the interior, and two coats of Future on the body. I’m very pleased with this one, hopefully I did this rare kit some justice!

Here are my two builds from the beginning and end of the long running third generation Mustang Fox Body. MPC’s 1979 Mustang Turbo Hatchback and Monogram’s 1992 Mustang GT Convertible. Enjoy!

I loved the kit and thought about buying another one to make a Mach 1. After all, I remembered the kit having the scoops in it. Well I started to cut out the holes to put the scoops in when I noticed; the scoops are from the GT-500 kit, not the Mach 1! So, now I have a red 302 and a yellow. Couldn't find my decal setting solution, so I was kinda angry I couldn't get the hood right. SAM_0122 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0123 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0124 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0125 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0126 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0127 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0450 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0451 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr

Here is my Monogram “1992” Mustang GT Convertible. I built this kit as a color scheme tribute to my 1:1 Mustang, a 1993 2.3 LX. My original idea was to kit bash this GT with an SVO or ‘83 GLX to create an LX ‘vert but all three of these kits are expensive on eBay today and I just don’t have the skills or stomach yet to cut up two $40-$60+ kits ?. So I settled for my car, but as a GT! I used Swarovski Crystals (meant for ladies’ custom nails) from Hobby Lobby to simulate the headlight and turn signal bulbs. And I used the actual belt line stripe tape left over from my 1:1, cut down for the 1:24 belt line stripe. To do those blasted cheese grater taillights, I painted them all white first, then used silver and red gel pens to color the lens sections. It’s a little sloppy but looks good enough. I messed up the clear coat on the hood too so I’ll have to repaint it at some point but it’s not that noticeable in these iPhone pictures ?. You’ll notice that the parade boot is grey when it probably should be white or blue. But my 1:1 came with a grey boot so I painted this to match! The previous owner also shaved the trunk luggage rack so I did the same here. I’m very pleased with this one and can’t wait for a nice day to photograph both cars together!

This is likely going to be an extended build but thought it would be fun to share the progress (or no progress as it may be) here with others. The goal is to build up a 1/25 scale of my actual 1969 Mustang Coupe that I've had since 1974. I finally have the car back on the road after way too long although it still needs details completed. I really should be working on the real one instead of this but I hope this will rebuild my motivation for the big car. I've messed with cutting up a kit to get the coupe roof line long ago but was never happy with what I could accomplish. Having run across the resin Grande coupe body some time ago I knew that was what I needed BUT the prices were over $100 on every auction and that was too much for me. Recently I received an alert from my ebay notices that there was a "69 Mustang Resin" for sale but figured it was another one of the decorations or 1/43 scale version. I checked it out anyhow and it had a very reasonable buy it now so I clicked it without any second thoughts. This is the resin kit pieces although I may use the CJ hood with the hole is the standard scoop will cover it. In any manner I want the air filter just peaking through the hood under the scoop like the real car does. Engine wise I want to match the 347 that I've built for the car as well which generally will not be a problem except for maybe the shorty Cobra filter that I've never seen anywhere else. The rest is pretty easy as the Cobra T pan is out there and covers and I found an intake that closely matches the old F4B I've kept on the car. I put a Mcleod scatter shield and TKO 3550 in the car and have found a close trans out of an early 90's Mustang kit. In fact, I bought the Mustang Cobra Combo kit to get not only the 1969 base parts but the rack and pinion to fit the rack I used in the real car and the fox body seats that I used as well. The Fox Cobra is 1/24 though so I may have to do some fitting on the seats as they already seem over sized. I plan on painting up / detailing the engine as close as I can to my actual build as well as the electric fuel pump setup, slapper traction bars, etc. I'm still debating on opening up the doors and trunk. It's a lot of work and sometimes doesn't actually add any value but then again I do not plan on building another one of these. One of the first things I had to do was remove the molded in battery from under the hood as mine is in the trunk. I'm thinking I'll rebuild the shock towers as well as the kit looks more like the Boss 429 laid back towers than my stock ones. The front suspension detail is so lacking on this kit as well so I may build up some custom shocks/springs and upper arms. I'm pretty familiar with the 1969 Mustang having put a passenger side shock tower and battery tray panel in the real car so I know how it should look :-) The other thing I have to do is remove the molded in power steering linkage as I'll be using a rack like the real car has. Little detail but I figure what the heck, I want to do this as close to the 1:1 that I can. Cool thing is I can always walk out to the garage and take pics, measurements, etc if I need to in order to validate the end results! Stephen

Wanted to get back into building cars again so I opened up the easiest one I have in inventory. A metal pre-painted Testors 1971 Boss 351 Mustang in my favorite color combo Blue and Silver. I started to do some research to find out how to detail it appropriately and learned that is NOT a '71 but a '73 with only a '71 grille. I plan on changing the interior to factory white/black. Follow along if you are interested.

So a few weeks ago I was getting ready to put my old build up for sale then a paint can can fell on it. This forced me to rebuild the car with the extra mclaren body I had, but I’m not going to sell it. I’m trying to step up my chassis skills with this build as long with the entire detail of the car.