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Scale I Build

  1. Here’s my build of the Monogram/Revell ‘99 Mustang Cobra, converted into a convertible using parts from the Monogram ’94 Cobra convertible. This is something they should have done themselves, the parts are all there except for the body shell. I have a WIP thread if you want to check it out. I had some troubles with paint and breaking the windshield frame, but overall an easy conversion and I’m pleased with my results!
  2. I start a new build report, the Hoonicorn Mustang is built. For this I got a kit of the 1966 Mustang from AMT. But from this kit I will only be able to use the body and some small parts. I have already 3D printed a lot of the parts. Here are the first pictures. Then there are the first pictures with color and some things were built together. I hope that I can inspire a few of you with it.
  3. Saw one in the forum in this same color and knew I had to do another car in that color. This probably some of my best work. SAM_1465 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1466 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1467 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1468 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1469 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1470 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr
  4. Now that Revell has made the MPC/AMT ‘71-‘73 Mustang kits obsolete… here’s my AMT 007 Mustang Mach 1! I left most of the kit’s inaccuracies intact, and built it as-is out of box. I did fill in the hood vent though. Body and interior are painted Rustoleum Gloss Apple Red over Tamiya pink primer with Krylon semigloss Black for the lower body. Cleared with Pledge floor gloss. I mistakenly glued the firewall to the interior tub and didn’t notice until final assembly. It should be glued into the body shell, further forward. I had to trim the firewall sides down to get the glued chassis and tub into the body. I managed to make the grossly inaccurate engine bay even worse! Exterior shots: Companion shots:007 Mach 1 with Supernatural Impala‘71 Fastback with ‘66 Coupe’71 Fastback with ‘94 Convertible Thanks for looking!
  5. Had the kit for a few weeks, but didn't have a chance to work on it much. Finally got it finished Tuesday night. The kit is great, but there's a few minor issues. Still it came out working great! Bought another one to paint in green after seeing the other 71 posted on here. I loved that color. SAM_1453 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1454 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1455 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1456 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr
  6. MPC Mustang FC 72 (HOTROD MAGAZINE) this was my 1st detailed build & contest entree. I installed every aftermarket plumbing, Aluminum Billet pulleys, A/N color coded fittings, Wrinkle Wall Slicks, even added the Chrome Valve Stems on it...for a EXTREMELY SIMPLE "BOX STOCK" build that would only take most beginners a few days to complete, took me about 350+ hours...(and I still wished I had 25-30 more to do everything that was in my head.. I had nothing but FUN all the way through.....
  7. Well that's a wrap. Very nice build, went together easily. Wasn't sure about the screw in interior and chassis but it was nice to easily secure the pieces together
  8. Here’s my box stock build of the infamous Revell 5.0 LX notch! A LOT of digital ink has been spilled on this forum about the roof proportions- but I haven’t seen many on here actually built as a factory stock car (mostly drag and police cars). To my eye, it looks fine until you see it next to a picture of a 1:1 😂. Using the current release Drag Racer kit, I wanted to build mine as a ‘92-‘93 model year with the body-color belt strip. I was shooting for my favorite Fox color of Ultra Blue, done here in Tamiya TS54 “Light Metallic Blue”. A 92-93 should have the Pony 5-spoke wheels, but I actually really like the 10-holes this kit comes with. I do have a Monogram ‘92 convertible that I might swap wheels with later. Roof proportions aside, this kit is very well done with excellent fit and detailing. I especially love how the window glass sets in from the outside of the car. The drag car release instructions only show how to build it as a drag car but the factory parts are included and they’re easy to figure out.
  9. 1970 Trans Am Rivals Last 2 builds of 2022 Revell 1970 Mustang Boss 302 built as the Bud Moore Trans Am race car. Doors and trunk opened, wheel arches bulged, engine rebuilt with scratch built induction, roll gage added, fuel cell and trunk detail added, R & M Minilite wheels, decals from 5 sources, and custom Tamiya paint and trim. AMT 1970 ½ full bumper Camaro Z28 built as Jim Hall Trans Am race car. Doors and trunk opened, wheel arches bulged, R & M Minilite wheels, engine rebuilt and under hood ram air tunnel added, roll gage added, fuel cell and trunk detail added, decals from Pattos Place from Australia, and rattle can refrigerator white paint.
  10. HI everyone!😄 this is my 1/25 AMT '67 shelby GT-350 this kit got some issues..I try to build it as good as I could.. not perfect...but I am happy with this result.. hope you guys like it!😄 and here is the video build if you are interested:😄
  11. Revell kit mostly OOB, but had some simplified bits (which are actually carry overs from the snap-tite Shinoda Boss kit) swapped out with guts from the '99 Cobra. Front suspension was missing springs and shocks, so that and IRS came from the 99. However, while the interiors are the same sans small differences in door panels and seats, the SS's chassis had to be swapped with the Cobra's as the former had indents that were meant for the solid rear axle setup and wouldn't work with the IRS. My kit despite being sealed, had a horribly deformed (short shot?) steering wheel, so I found a replacement parts one from what appears to be a Monogram '70 Mustang Boss. The one off 5.4 DOHC engine (just DOHC heads on a SOHC truck 2 valve motor, which is different than the 4.6) while somewhat simplified and based on the 5.0 in the Shinoda Boss, was used as is considering you won't see much of it with the supercharger and all. However, the '99 Cobra's exhaust had to have the tips trimmed so it would not interfere with the body-to-frame fit frame and also had the tranny cross-member at a different place and shape and wouldn't work with the 5.4. So out went that and in came the brace from the Super Stallion chassis that was cut and placed to aprox it's original location. Paint is Testors Color Shift Emerald Turquoise cleared with Pledge. Color looks like a metal flake British Racing Green in the pics, though in certain lighting you can see somewhat of a shift to Blue.
  12. In 1964 Ford sent 4 early Mustangs to Alan Mann in England to prepare for rallying and exposure to the European market. Three of them were prepped and ran in the major rally events and one was kept as a spare, kind of a rolling parts bin. The spare, DPK 4B, was left with Scuderia Filipinetti in Switzerland and raced and rallied by them. #50 is the 1965 Gaisberg Hill Climb number. The model: So here is my version of the DPK 4B built from a 1/24 Welly Mustang. It differs from the other three as it still had its full trim. I lowered it and added NASCAR wheels and printed decals for it except for the Scuderia lettering which I had to buy from Spain. Reference - Racing History (ponysite.de)
  13. Happy Summer all,,,between mowing,yard fix up,,ect had some time to finish this "leftover parts box " Stang. I think its the ol MPC "Pro Street Mustang" from years ago. It has "Fun Dimensions" cast on the bottom of chassis,,so looked around on web and the only thing I could find was the MPC kit. It has the tilt nose front end,,but I attached the front ,,made it just a lift style setup. The Mtr is from parts leftovers bx as are the rims/tires,,axles,scratch built the wheelie bar set, egg crate grill,,and added some x-tra wing on back. And basic wiring ect. A 'what if" car,,but Ive seen some 1:1 vids on YT of similar cars. Fun cars indeed,,,now on to my brand new MPC 72 chevy ramp truck,,looks like a fun one,,Cheers. S
  14. Has anyone put the 1/25 Revell Snap Tite Mustang convertible body/interior on the detailed glue kit fastback engine/chassis?
  15. Got this with a gift card from work last year. Been meaning to get around to building it. Over all it's a pretty nice kit. However, the stripes are a nightmare to put on and are a little too long. Came out nice though. SAM_0632 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0633 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0634 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0635 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0636 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr
  16. hi everyone !😄 this is my REVELL 1/24 'GT 350 H, I once build mustang 2+2 fastback couple months ago,I just love mustang...this time I try to build the famous GT350H,I add some modification and detail patrts on it..the black paint is quite tricky I try to build this model as good as I could, still, there are some defects on this model🙁,but I just love this car😅..... hope you guys like it!!🙂 and here is the video build if you are interested..🙂
  17. Here’s my build of the ‘94 Mustang Cobra Indy Pace car. Overall this is a very well designed kit and it goes together very nicely. The body is painted Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red over red oxide primer. It was polished with Tamiya Finish compound, followed by a coat of Pledge floor gloss. Interior and top are Tamiya XF-93 Light Brown, along with semigloss black accents, with a single coat of floor gloss on the vinyl and leather surfaces. Wheels are TS-30 Silver Leaf. The decals were very thin and fragile but I managed to get them down without any tears, applied before the floor gloss coat. I’m very pleased with this one, and I’m one model closer to my collection of every Mustang generation!
  18. It has been nearly a year since I finished a build, but it’s nice to finally have another lump of styrene for the display shelf. This ‘89 Mustang GT was started early last year and after making quick progress on the drivetrain and interior the work stalled for a while as other builds and shiny objects grabbed my attention. The body was prepped and primed, then doused with some vintage DupliColor Ford Light Gray that I’d spotted for 99 cents at Ollie’s about 10 years ago. It was a color I remembered from the 70s and 80s and just needed a build to suit it. After the color and clear coats, it was sanded and polished before mating it with the interior and chassis. These 80s and 90s Fox platform Monogram kits are rather simple yet I prefer them to the MPC/AMT variants of the same era. I remember buying the first version of these when it was released in ‘87 as The New Monkee’s Mustang. That kit incorrectly had the pre-‘87 interior, engine, and chassis but the body seemed more accurate for the ‘87+ than the MPC version of the GT Hatch that was also just hitting the KMart shelves. Later releases of the Monogram ‘Vert like this one corrected the interior and included a reasonably accurate updated 5.0 HO with F/I. This later version also had an accurate decklid luggage rack that the Monkee’s version lacked. It went together relatively easily without much fuss. The most challenging aspect of these kits has always been the simulated louvered taillights. If Monogram hadn’t penny pinched, they could have molded the tails as two or three piece units with separate lenses and louvered covers. As they are, however, it makes for a tricky and stressful bit of work to get them reasonably accurate. It could be worse, though, as the MPC/AMT kits had the entire lens/louver units molded into the body. There’s a great low mileage example of this car and color combo that a quick web search located, so it became the reference for the build and its details.
  19. Just finished Revell's 1969 Boss 302 Mustang. I used a custom mixture of Decoart Jack O' Lantern Orange and Folkart Lipstick Red for the color ( I was going for Calypso Coral, I think I got pretty close) and cleared it with Tamiya TS-13 Clear Gloss. The same colors, but with a slightly different mixture, were used for the chassis. The interior is just Apple Barrel Black with Pledge brushed on the seats, dash, and door panels for the sheen, while the woodgrain is all kit decals. The hood was painted with Krylon Short Shots Flat Black with a quick polish of Novus #2. I used BMF for the window trim, brushed on Molotow for the grille trim, and added heater hoses, ignition wires, door locks , and valve stems for extra detail. This is a great kit, although I wish the interior were a little more detailed, and everything fit together very well. I may have to buy and build another, lol. Thanks for looking!!
  20. Just finished up this little ‘66 Mustang from AMT. As many have said here before, this kit is definitely lacking in detail and accuracy under the hood and on the chassis, but the body and interior detail out nicely. The fit is actually not bad considering the kit’s age but there was a ton of flash in my example. I accidentally glued the radiator support in backwards so the battery is on the wrong side. But again it isn’t accurate under the hood anyway so I let it go. I was shooting for the ‘66 factory Ivy Green body color so I painted it Tamiya’s TS2 Dark Green. It looks closer to Bullitt’s Highland Green to me, which is not a bad thing! I cleared it with three coats of Pledge floor gloss and lightly polished that out with Tamiya finish compound. Trim is silver sharpie that was applied and left to dry for several days before I did the Pledge Gloss. I painted the interior Tamiya XF-17 Sea Blue, with two coats of Pledge Gloss on the seats, dash, console and door cards. Sea blue is an interesting color that looks like a dark charcoal on its own, but looks more blue next to blue objects and more green next to green objects. So I think it looks great next to this dark green body. I’m slowly building one Mustang from every major generation/ redesign/ facelift and am pleased to have this one as my O.G. example!
  21. Saw a rendering by Ragle of a Mustang race-concept protouring and said I have to build this. Starting with the AMT Shelby GT-350 Looked at variations for stance, not doing this, just to show what the wheels and tires I will be using look like in a stock position Thought about tucked in the wheel wells... nah... everyone does this with building an Eleanor... Drew out a starting position for trimming... Trimmed out a lot more than I first thought... This is the stance I was looking for and the rendering by Ragle Started the flares... Added the front sail-vent behind the front wheel and modified the side window opening to give it a new lower-chopped look. Also added a deeper body line tying the front sail-vent to the rear scoop and molded it all in. Note the smaller side sail scoop, I think it looks better cut down by a third of the orginal size, this will be moilded in as well.. Created the rear sail-vent behind the rear wheel... haven't decided if I will change the shape of it yet... Feedback? Finally... in primer 3/6... Primary body mods are complete, next is custom racing chassis with ground effects package, splitters, air-dams and rear diffuser
  22. This is the Revell snap-together 2015 Mustang kit. This was my first try with aftermarket parts: wheels, tires, and disc brakes & calipers; photo-etched radio dial, speaker grills, and various Mustang emblems; military lenses for the front lights positioned under the grill; and acetate instrument panel dials. The rear-view and side mirrors are from an unbuilt ’69 Mustang kit. I drilled holes in the side mirrors and receiving holes in the body and used thin pieces of wire to act as pegs for mounting. I fabricated exhaust pipes from aluminum tubing. I found some photos of the real headlights, printed them out and cut them to size for the body openings. For the back license plate, I used photo-etched Mustang and GT emblems on the plate holder from the unbuilt ’69 kit. The paint is Testors Mystic Emerald green.
  23. Howdy all,,this is the Revell muscle series 2n1 kit,,I decided to do the race version. And as always I do a different paint scheme than what is normally pictured on box art. Here I was in a "Shelby" N "Shindona" mood when I built this,,hence the blue w/white stripes,,and the spoiler on trunk,,blacked out rear lens area. Air scoops on sides behind doors. Revell did a great job with the motor choices,,interior and everything else,,, looks good,,but I dont understand the design of the rims with the "ribs" going all around the insides making it near impossible to mount the tires on? Really? I always like the traditional 2 pc rims that can be put together 1/2 at a time as I always paint my rims one way or another on most builds. And after painting these I kept the front rims after dremmeling off "The Ribs" on rims for front,,and changed the back rims to traditional Rally 2 pc rims. Used testors quikdry blue,,hand painted the rest, all in all,,I happy with the kit,,I have yet to build the Hemi Cuda Muscle series kit,,fun kits ,,and they look decent when done. We now return you to your regularly scheduled program.
  24. Here’s my latest, an ‘83 Mustang GLX convertible by Monogram. This is a fun little kit that goes together pretty well. My only issues were due to this particular kit’s rough shape, and the up-top and frame being slightly warped. Also the rubber tires were rock hard so I had to hog out the insides to get the wheels to fit. I built it mostly box stock with some metal transfer emblems added. The body is painted Tamiya TS39 Mica Red over TS30 Silver Leaf, and the interior is Tamiya XF55 Deck Tan, with one coat of Pledge gloss over the body, up-top and parade boot. It’s not perfect, but this is my best paint job thus far! So I’m very happy with this one.
  25. My goal is to build the worst Foxbody I can imagine. I'm starting with AMT's 88 GT kit. I am using a few unused bits from a 90LX that Revell released, I recently built as well. I will be scratching out whatever I need to complete the vision. Enjoy... Went into primer... I am going with a targa roof instead of T-Tops. I was having trouble getting the lower front valance so i cut the whole clip off and worked these pieces together. This is how the real car is built, so I figured nothing would look funny once it's all together. The fog lights have beaten out of their housings and the airdam is far from aerodynamic. This thing will be several colors, so perfection isn't my aim here. Scribed the panel lines, worked the dents into the body with candle heat. I'm giving this hog beast the big cowl hood to clear what I believe to be a stroked, nitrous huffing Chevy motor. This heap will be a fully neglected death trap, complete with improper safety equipment and unsafe components. Peep these bald 4 lug OEM front wheels... Sure it does 11's but the only thing holding it together is a thick coat of grime and rust... I've seen 1 foxbody in my whole life that had a stereo in it. The glovebox latch is broken and the passenger door panel is long gone. Got some color laid out and I am going to keep the patina for now. Focusing on interior, I found a grant style aftermarket wheel that was screaming for a trip back to the 80's. Scratched out a ratchet shifter and some nitrous tanks. Color and Style... With the tall valve covers I believe this to be a stroker setup on a 350 cast. Wired and plumed all the bits as best as I can tell. Manual brakes, no A/C, no power steering, cut the heater lines, so not much needed under the hood... I scratched out the harmonic balancer, alt bracket, serp belt, plug wires, wet shot intake and brake lines. It's running shorty headers, and I had to reverse the oil pan instead of modifying the K member 🤫 But it all tucks in nicely. It's going to have electric fans, but I'm having trouble with the core support fitting properly. Can you spot the coolant leak? This is where I am now. 7 months and counting...
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