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I put the old page from the SLM site back together, so, here's another method to make wire wheels for a dragster. This method is good for folks who don't care to work with metal. It's pretty straightforward. Sorry for the file size.
I just dug out this project I have barely looked at in nearly 20 years. I never had a decent camera, when I was working on it, so I figured I'd take some new photos of it--the way they came out, you might not suspect that I have a decent camera, now! The chassis is brass tubing and rod. The nose and tail sections are K&S tin sheet that I formed over wood bucks, then soldered. Rust is fairly evident, especially on the tail section. The rest of the body panels are tooling aluminum (before I discovered 5"X7" aluminum flashing), and would be re-created in flashing, should I ever decide to revive this thing. All the body mounting tabs are cut from K&S shim brass. I made a jig from plexiglass, so that I could cut and drill them, uniformly. I'm not sure what caused this project to stall, unless it was because one of my non-modeler friends bent the BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH out of the cowl--due to the softness of the tooling aluminum. I wish I could remember what I used to engine-turn the windscreens and firewall, because it's very nicely scaled! The engine mounted in the chassis is a late-model Donovan. Some of its "accessory" parts are visible, as well. In some of the shots, there is another engine. That one is a vintage Donovan I created using the block from the AMT Chrysler 300. I used Plastruct letters for the "nameplate" on the crank girdle. The oil pan and valve covers are laminated Evergreen strip and sheet. In one shot here, some of the smaller details are visible. These include the brake handle, chute release handles, master cylinder, Enderle barrel valve, throttle pedal, etc. I had originally planned to create graphics from the old Header Flames board on Nitronic Research. I'd still like to do that, but, it's not too likely that I can come up with art to work from, at this point. Comments and questions always welcome!
After abandoning the 1976 Dart Sport build ( so close , so ... close ... BUT ! The wheelbase is off side-to-side ! ARRGGG ! ) , I decided to crack-open the Revell 1967 SS-396 Chevelle kit ; the 1990 release which is moulded-in Marina Blue or LeMans Blue (not sure ...) and give it a whirl . To wit : I have seen some truly impressive builds by Mr. Mike , Snake , and other forum members , wherein the bare plastic was polished instead of being painted . Mr. Mike's gorgeous build of the same kit that I'm working on was / is the inspiration for my trying the polished plastic technique ... ... so far , a liberal application of Meguire's #7 and some (arthritis-attack) elbow grease hath yielded a remarkable shine ! More work to be done . In the meantime , I am hoping that the aforementioned members -- and anyone else for this matter -- would like to contribute images of their completed polished plastic kits ; and , perhaps share some advice and techniques in-so-far-as additional waxing / polishing to maintain the plastic's polished shine . Thank you .
Hi guys. Technical question for experts: It is known that ABS plastic has different chemical properties of the polystyrene plastic. However, can we normally use the ABS plastic in the hobby? The types of glues that we used to apply can be used with ABS plastic? Can we join original polystyrene pieces that came from kits with ABS plastic parts without any concern? Will be merged? Strong? No problem at all? It would be nice to read about experiences from someone who already did some tests