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I mean rare auto models could be models of rare autos, rare models of autos and rare models of rare autos. They could be produced by factories or the factory models customized by collectors or scratchbuilt models made by enthusiast DIY guys. In my collection are all three type of rarities to find but I have to admit I can`t decide how much rare is a model of a car in the world – I know only how difficult was for me to find that one. The scratch built models are all one-off and I dare say they are rarities. But this forum is about diecast models I don`t know may I show here such models ? W-Motors Lycan HyperSport 2012 and Fenyr SuperSport 2015 Wikipedia says: W Motors is an Emirati sports car company founded in Lebanon in 2012, being the first developer of high-performance luxury sports cars in the Middle East. Based in Dubai, the company's activities include automotive design, research and development, as well as vehicle engineering and manufacture. I found the model of Lycan HyperSport first. The model is made according the box by Mondo Motors but on the base of car is www.jadatoys.com and Made in China. The scale is 1:24. (some years later Jada made a 1:55 Lycan) After checking photos I decided to detail the model, especially the enterieur by painting. There are a lot of details in the casting but everything is black plastic. It is too bad that after assembly the inside is nearly invisible. And some elements of inside: The Fenyr SuperSport is a really toy car (with pull back motor, ligts, motorsound or musik) but the shape is really good. The model produced by Newao Toys in 1:24 scale. The inside is detailed a bit in factory but not perfect to 1:1. As there are so much electronic with wiring in model I don`t dare to take apart the car. (for the time being) Enjoy the pictures - all comments are highly appreciated.
Here's another project that's been sitting around here, for a couple of decades. Interestingly, it's yet another Monogram model, as well! I gave consideration to redoing the California Street Vette, once the Mack was completed, but decided to go into the current quarterly "Bring Out Your Dead" thread, with this, instead. This was begun probably before the turn of the century--although I don't recall when, exactly. Since I took it back out of the box in pieces, I have done some work to the chassis. I added bottom frame tubes, and rebuilt the side bars in the cockpit, along with the fuel tank support/brackets. I'm not completely decided, as far as wheels. I like the dished Halibrands (I think that's what they are), but the two-piece wheels look cool, as well; Those, however, will need to be narrowed. I've made molds, in case I choose that direction, since I only have the pair, as well. I had already selected a set of nice Corvette valve covers for the car, so I will use them. Hilborn fuel injection. Quick-change rear from a Monogram sprint car. Although it's too small, I am using a steering box from one of the old MPC funny cars. It's not all that visible, anyway, and it fits! I removed the kit firewall and replaced it with aluminum flashing. I also removed the hood. I want to make it from flashing, as well. It's curvier than any sheet work I have done, before, so it will be a nice challenge! If that goes well, I may attempt the nose, as well. I'm unsure of the origin of the rear tires. I think they may be from an AMT Lotus or the Willard battery car. The fronts look like AMT's from the early '70s--they look like the tires from my original Pepper Shaker--and they may well be! I started work on a new front spring and axle. The headers will need to be redone, between the ports and the dumps. Since these photos, I have notched the lower firewall to clear the lower chassis tubes, removed the nose from the hood, and filled that hole on the right rear cage upright with acrylic nail resin. Speaking of the spring assembly: I've known this for a couple of years, now, and have mentioned it before, but it bears repeating--in bold Italics!: There is no better way to precisely apply liquid plastic cement (NOT superglue--MEK, etc.) than an insulin syringe. None! Don't tell me "I like this", or "I prefer that". There is absolutely no debate! 😉 Using the plunger, you can push out the tiniest drop of cement. Just touch the joint with that, and you're done. Need another tiny drop? Just squeeze out another, and go. No mess. No excess. Need to flood it on? Hey! That syringe has you covered. Anyhoo, without further ado... As always, questions, critiques and comments are welcomed and appreciated! Thanks for looking.
Hey guys, I just just started on a 1/25 revell c7r, and I while I was thinking of what I wanted to do with the kit as far as the actual build is concerned, I wanted to replicate the leader light system on the car but I am not sure as to what type of light to use. In the picture attached these lights can be seen just behind the driver's head in the window. Any input on how to go about this? I was thinking fiber optics in some way but I'm not sure exactly. Appreciate it all!
Hello, I'm sorta new around here so its nice to meet all of you. Although I don't post very often I enjoy looking around on MCM for ideas and love some of the creations I see. There is a lot of talent on here. This is my current project that I'm taking a swing at. It's the original 55 Jukebox Ford kit. On this one i'm trying to do a little more than just put it together. I plan on some wiring, seat belts, delay box, and all that good stuff. I've never got super detailed on any of my builds but I've always wanted to try. At this point there isn't much to report. I put together the Protech distributor and it is ready to put on the engine. Also glued in a few loops to the firewall to run wires. I have everything stripped and primed except for the body. Just waiting on a nice day to shoot some paint. Thanks for looking! Comments are always welcome good or bad.