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Scale I Build

Found 2 results

  1. I'm building a 1955 Crown Victoria for my mom - it was her first car. I've got the AMT 1956 Crown Victoria, the 1955 resin body from Hendrix, a resin continental kit, and wide whitewall tires. (Pics attached of all these). What I need are 1955 wire wheels to go with it, as in this pic of a 1:1 55 Crown Victoria: --> Where can I get 1955 Crown Victoria 1/25 wire wheels like these? I need a set of 5, since there's the continental kit. A set of aftermarket wheels would be great, but also if there's a full kit out there that includes these wheels, that would b helpful too.
  2. A couple of members have asked for a closer look at lacing wire wheels for dragsters. We all know how the kit wheels look on 1:25 models, we can do better with a little effort. A couple sets on finished cars from last year are here; http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/146828-the-old-master-1966-125-brass-model/ http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/143663-amt-23-ford-t-fuel-altered-new-pics/ 1. First off a hardwood base is needed. Here a rest piece from a hardwood floor. This will be a 32 spoke wheel, so 8 studs are needed, evenly spaced to make a "clock". The studs should be inserted deep enough to hold up to a little pressure, but steady enough to not wiggle around; 2. Since this wheel will be soldered, I chose an 18mm copper tube from a plumbers supply shop, and cut slices off the tube to end up at about 1mm thickness each. Two rims will be needed for one wheel; 3. Here the wire used, a 100yd. roll of silver plated copper wire, 0.20mm thin. Amazon has this, but comes from China...your choice. 4. Start the procedure by wrapping the wire around the top most stud. For ease in fabrication, number the studs as you would a clock. The first wire should be wrapped around often enough to secure it from wandering. Wrapping around the center stud, which will be the hub, go straight across, then one number to the left, or counterclockwise. This would be starting at #2, then go around the hub to #8; 5. Go around #8, then straight across then one number left, would be now #14. Continue this way until the last remaining stud is completed. Then the last single wire should go back to where you started, being in this case #2. Wrap it up and secure the last wire; 6. Now the wires and rim can be centered and the wires evenly spaced out on the rim, solder them up to the rim. at this point let me write that a hard plastic tube could be used, and for the wires you can use fly-fishing line in ultra thin gauge. The stuff is cheap. Glue it on the rims with a good CA. 7. Cut the wires off between the studs and the rim, then carefully lift the single rim off the middle stud; 8. Here the visible side. The inside, soldered up parts will be soldered together to make a complete rim. 9. The excess wires should be removed right up to the rim surface. If soldering these wires, there's an immenent danger the excess wires would otherwise start to float around and lose their position when soldering the rims together. Clean the rims up, here the visible side of a rim; 10. Any excess solder should be removed between the wires to reduce the overall thickness, and to let the two halves come together better. With two rims at about 1mm width each, the final result will end up being about 2.5mm, which makes out for a scale of about 2.5", perfect for a dragster tire, and perfect for the Tony Nancy kit tire. Here the finished laced wheel in direct comparison to the kit wheel. Left is a 32 spoke wheel, right is the better, 40 spoke laced wire wheel. 11. Here on a vintage FED model, the 32 spoke version. I like the 40 spoke better though, in the last photo from the current WIP. 12. The 40 spoke version; I hope this might work for you in case you're interested. Mike..
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