Matt T. Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Bandit Resins recommends this for removing mold release from their resin bodies. I just grabbed some off Amazon. Instructions on the jug indicate you should cut it with water, but I think that is for cleaning as it's intended. Are you guys just using it full strength for soaking resin? Thanks for your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunkPile Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 It may require water to work. Kinda like an activator. POR-15 metal coating is a really nice product. If one doesn't agree, paint some on a bare metal piece, allow to dry, then try to sandblast off. TOUGH stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt T. Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Yeah, I've never heard a bad review of a POR item. I will mix as directed and soak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astroracer Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Yeah, I've never heard a bad review of a POR item. I will mix as directed and soak. Matt, You don't have to do this. You do not have to soak the resin, you don't need any "special" cleaners other then some Dawn and a bit of TSP. I have been trying to dispell the soaking mythe for years! It is not necessary to soak the body in anything. Washing it with Dawn and hot water, inside and out, will get the mold release off. Scubbing the body with TSP (Trisodiumphosphate, it's a cheap degreasing agent used by house painters to clean before painting.) and a pad of ScotchBrite will have it nearly ready for paint. TSP is a couple of bucks for a box at your local hardware. Try it. I have never soaked a resin body prior to painting. I did quite a few display cars for Ray when R&R was still going and NEVER had an issue with adhesion or fisheyes... Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt T. Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Hi Mark, thanks for the info. I recall TSP was removed from Catrol Super Clean a while back (causing it to be less effective than previously), and I tried to go buy straight TSP at my local hardware store a couple of years ago and could only find the TSP substitute - without phosphate. I just searched TSP online and found it on the Home Depot site. When I clicked 'Add to Cart' it stated that none was available at my store (Albany, NY) but there was some at a HD in Bennington, VT and also at two stores in Massachusetts. Leads me to believe that TSP is unavailable in New York State. Apparently it is banned in some places because the phosphate is a great fertilzier and causes excessive algae and plant growth (around waste water run-off, I presume?). Thanks for the lead, though. I will try to get some TSP the next time I'm in Massachusetts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astroracer Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 I haven't bought TSP in years, I have a couple of boxes in my stash and it only takes a half teaspoon or so to do a couple model bodies. I also wash the kit styrene in it as their release agent is no different then the resin ones. The issue with the resin cast bodies is the molds are pure silicone and some of this does transfer to the resin as it cures because of the heat generated. I have found TSP removes the silicone better then anything else I have tried. If you can get the "diluted" version of TSP do it. I doubt the phosphate agent has any real benefit when degreasing. If you forgo the TSP, wash the model with Dawn and then Scrub it with ScotchBrite and a bit of laquer thinner. After that, wipe it down with any automotive wax and grease remover. You should be able to buy a pint or quart at your local auto painters supply. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Hi Mark, thanks for the info. I recall TSP was removed from Catrol Super Clean a while back (causing it to be less effective than previously), and I tried to go buy straight TSP at my local hardware store a couple of years ago and could only find the TSP substitute - without phosphate. I just searched TSP online and found it on the Home Depot site. When I clicked 'Add to Cart' it stated that none was available at my store (Albany, NY) but there was some at a HD in Bennington, VT and also at two stores in Massachusetts. Leads me to believe that TSP is unavailable in New York State. Apparently it is banned in some places because the phosphate is a great fertilzier and causes excessive algae and plant growth (around waste water run-off, I presume?). Thanks for the lead, though. I will try to get some TSP the next time I'm in Massachusetts... TSP (trisodium phosphate)? Look no farther than for a box of good old "Spic & Span"! That's a TSP cleaner. TSP was banned from laundry detergents in the US about 40 years ago, due to its wide usage, but TSP should still be available just about anyplace as a household cleaning product--not nearly as much of that gets into waste water as laundry detergent. And, no--it is NOT necessary to soak a resin kit in TSP--just a good washing with it, then rinsing off will do the trick in getting rid of any mold release. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astroracer Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 (edited) TSP (trisodium phosphate)? Look no farther than for a box of good old "Spic & Span"! That's a TSP cleaner. TSP was banned from laundry detergents in the US about 40 years ago, due to its wide usage, but TSP should still be available just about anyplace as a household cleaning product--not nearly as much of that gets into waste water as laundry detergent. And, no--it is NOT necessary to soak a resin kit in TSP--just a good washing with it, then rinsing off will do the trick in getting rid of any mold release. Art THANK YOU ART! I hope the guys will listen when we say this. Soaking has been an old wives tale for so many years it's hard to dispell it. Soaking does nothing other then allow the soaking liquid to leach into the resin. This is not what you want. Washing and scrubbing will do the job and, after scrubbing with the ScotchBrite, the resin is in near perfect tooth for primer. Mark Edited April 23, 2015 by astroracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt T. Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 Scrubbed the body today with a Scotch Brite sponge & Por15 degreaser. Seems to have worked well! Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 No soaking resin overnight anymore? I wonder why it perpetuates, though? It must be a reason beyond urban legend or stubbornness. I wonder if using Bleche-Wite as a rinse would work? That's what's I've soaked my last couple of resin bodies in (Motor City and Modelhaus, both overnight,) and no issues attributable to the Bleche-Wite that I can think of, just a couple of pesky latent air bubbles that didn't show up until I painted. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Another excellent degreaser for polyurethane resin kits and parts is plain old Naphtha (AKA Mineral Spirits). It works very quickly, just a quick dunk into it, take the part(s) out, lay them on a paper towel to air dry. That's what I used on thousands of grilles, bumpers, hubcaps and head/tail light bezels that were to be plated. I also used it myself to clean resin bodies prior to priming and painting. One characteristic of Naptha that I gleaned from my nephew (who is a recognized professional cabinet-maker/furniture restorer) is that Naptha will not redeposit contaminants onto the next batch of parts--it keeps those in suspension all the way. Pretty inexpensive too. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astroracer Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 No soaking resin overnight anymore? I wonder why it perpetuates, though? It must be a reason beyond urban legend or stubbornness. I wonder if using Bleche-Wite as a rinse would work? That's what's I've soaked my last couple of resin bodies in (Motor City and Modelhaus, both overnight,) and no issues attributable to the Bleche-Wite that I can think of, just a couple of pesky latent air bubbles that didn't show up until I painted. Charlie Larkin Hi Charlie, Right you are! NO MORE SOAKING!!! Soaking overnight has been an urban legend for as long as resin has been around. Don't know where/when it started but it is NOT necessary. Like Art and I have been saying, just a simple wash and a scrub will do the trick. Just like you never soak an injection molded body, why would it be necessary to soak a resin cast piece? Working with resin is not rocket science. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZTony8 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Which color Scotch Brite pad? Different colors indicate different degrees of coarseness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astroracer Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Which color Scotch Brite pad? Different colors indicate different degrees of coarseness. I use the Grey pads. This is the FINE grade of pad. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Hi Charlie, Right you are! NO MORE SOAKING!!! Soaking overnight has been an urban legend for as long as resin has been around. Don't know where/when it started but it is NOT necessary. Like Art and I have been saying, just a simple wash and a scrub will do the trick. Just like you never soak an injection molded body, why would it be necessary to soak a resin cast piece? Working with resin is not rocket science. Mark Actually, I usually do soak my plastic parts overnight. I've had a few problems with paint adhesion, so if it looks/feels like there's a lot of mold release agent, I leave in soapy water for 6 hours-overnight/sometimes a few days if I get busy. The oily film I usually have in the water speaks for itself... Re: resin, I'll try the wipe-down next body I get ready, which may be sooner rather than later. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astroracer Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Actually, I usually do soak my plastic parts overnight. I've had a few problems with paint adhesion, so if it looks/feels like there's a lot of mold release agent, I leave in soapy water for 6 hours-overnight/sometimes a few days if I get busy. The oily film I usually have in the water speaks for itself... Re: resin, I'll try the wipe-down next body I get ready, which may be sooner rather than later. Charlie Larkin Soapy water is a lot different then these other concoctions the guys are using. Hot soapy water as your initial wash and scrub will remove 99% of the contaminants. A final washing and scrubbing with a TSP based degreaser simply gets the surface ready for paint. Handling the body with oily fingers after this prep is a no-no. It should be on a stand or handled with clean paper towels prior to spraying. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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