truckabilly Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) Thank you all very much. Another thing I have changed is the interior tube. I did not like the askew walls. I cut off the sides with the door pattern for later use and threw the rest away. I made a new floor and some simple interior panels. This is what I mean by askew... The gap between the floor and cab skin is unacceptable for me. So, this is all I will use... The new floor... Actually, I did not take care too much of the cab lining. I used a regular paperboard for the back wall and ceiling. They call this cab little window or maybe small window, I am not sure. But the openings for the windshield seemed to be of wrong shape to me. Too tall, so to say. So, I added a stripe of plastic to the top and bottom and shaped the corners. And I did this twice because it did not seem enough after the first shot. Oh, come on! Don´t laugh! You would not look any better immediately after your plastic surgery. This how the curing went on. To be continued in a short while... Edited July 19, 2017 by truckabilly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superpeterbilt Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 It looks great Jarda. Good call on junking the tub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckabilly Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) The newly shaped openings need a gasket. I made mine of the Evergreen stock. Since there is an old light bulb in my table lamp that produces a lot of heat besides lighting, I use it for local heating of tiny plastic parts. Did I burn my fingers a few times? Yes, I did. Building a plastic model requires some sacrificing now and then. I heated up the channel at certain places to make the bends and gradually glued it to the cab. With the new floor I needed new mounting points. I did not want to use the rails like the original floor had. I copied the parts from RoG 359 kit and added them to the chassis. The front ends of the frame rails are too plain. The bumper openings would look kinda blind. The towing elements need to be there. I made me a pair but unlike my Bill Signs model these are not functional. I spent some time thinking of the fuel tanks. The original length of the tanks is gone for good since Matchbox changed the tooling for their cabover 352. I was looking for a longer tanks in my parts box and I found some of a Kenworth. Different in size and style it would not match Peterbilt but I said, So what....? One CA original and one of KW, changed a bit, could be paired on the same frame. But I needed the top, Peterbilt style brackets and I did not have them. What I did instead was that I glued one of the halfs upside down and the molded on brackets moved right on top where I needed them. A little bit of putty and sandpaper did the rest of work. There is still some work to do on the tanks but I hope you got the idea. Edited July 19, 2017 by truckabilly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Fantastic work and the windshield mods look good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopar - D Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Excellent progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petetrucker07 Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Awesome work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBad Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 You detail maniac Jarda! You make us (me) look bad all the time! LOL! You are one execellent truck modeler, I can say that much. Your builds are always entertaining! Keep at it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermodel Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 The neat thing about this truck is that its still around ,but updated into todays looks with double bunk,alum.wheels, a silly big bumper among other things.I'll try to locate the picture and post it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren B Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 wow been working on this same kit , not even close to your skills but will be watching with great interest as this is one piece of art you are a master at this, thank you for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mackinac359 Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 It is always enjoyable watching builds like this progress. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gatorincebu Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Jarda, Once again you are raising the bar. Your attention to detail. And modeling skills are outstanding. I like the body work on the windshield! And you work on the interior..................... . Just too cool man! Be Well Gator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckabilly Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 (edited) Thank you guys very much. When testing the cab position on the frame I always attach the hood. This way I can see how it works as a whole. I got me Mecury sleeper and looked for for interior pictures. I found one with a black paneling inside and that got me to this idea. Originally a credit card cover this material was the right thing for covering the inside walls with. Maybe it does not look any special but I will not open any door and there will not be anything visible anyway. More impontant for me was to make a decision wether the sleeper should be in line with the cab floor or the cab roof. The sleeper is a bit smaller in height compared to the cab. In lower position the crawl-through tunnel fits perfectly to the cab rear window. In higher position it would take some modification. But I kinda like the higher position better. What do you think? Edited July 19, 2017 by truckabilly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowboy rich Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Nice build you have, personally I would line up up the roof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Gilkeson Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 lookin' good. ;-)) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petetrucker07 Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 I agree, line up the top. That's what I did on the Pete I built with a Mercury box. Excellent idea of attaching the cab to the hood then close it. That way it lines up perfect, cab gets in the proper postion. Great work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Buckaroo Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Fantastic work all the way around ! I would keep the sleeper level with the cab roof. Drop the crawl through down and fill the overhead space with a same size strip. As for the bottom of the sleeper a strip of real thin styrene could replicate a aluminum strip that could house running lights or fuel tax permits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaindewd Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Here is one with a Mercury. The sleeper is aligned with the cab roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny B Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Jarda, The mods to the frame looks really good. I really like the smaller windshield that you changed. You are one of the few that does the bracing under the hood. I did the same on my pete, it may not be exact but it looks alot better that leaving it bare. The whole project is looking really good. Keep us posted. Ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Force Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Nice work Jarda, I really like to follow your builds. I agree with the others, it looks better if the top of the sleeper are the same hight as the top of the cab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anarximis Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Thank you guys very much. When testing the cab position on the frame I always attach the hood. This way I can see how it works as a whole. I got me Mecury sleeper and looked for for interior pictures. I found one with a black paneling inside and that got me to this idea. Originally a credit card cover this material was the right thing for covering the inside walls with. Maybe it does not look any special but I will not open any door and there will not be anything visible anyway. More impontant for me was to make a decision wether the sleeper should be in line with the cab floor or the cab roof. The sleeper is a bit smaller in height compared to the cab. In lower position the crawl-through tunnel fits perfectly to the cab rear window. In higher position it would take some modification. But I kinda like the higher position better. What do you think? would you be willing to make a set of hood hinges that I could buy or trade for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostas Parchas Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Nice so far. Kostas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arnd Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 (edited) Hei Jarda Grate work on all of your detailing. All this littel things make a modell special unique and give it the real and authentique look. Just impressive all this work. So long Arnd Edited June 6, 2015 by Arnd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 I agree...the higher position looks much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gatorincebu Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 I agree...the higher position looks much better. I agree as well.I like the higher position for the sleeper. Be Well Gator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckabilly Posted July 21, 2015 Author Share Posted July 21, 2015 (edited) I have not posted here for a while because I was fighting the painting job. The skin of the cab / sleeper full of rivets, grooves and diamond pattern is not ideal for the paint scheme I chose. Masking over rivets and such is anything but wise. This is my second attempt in spraying the white and dark-dark blue combination. The surface is anything but smooth but I believe I can polish it with a fine paste. But first I have to repair all the imperfections. It is going to take a bit more time to finish the paint job. Be patient with me please. Edited July 19, 2017 by truckabilly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.