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truckabilly

Reissued Pete 359 California Hauler

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With the reissue of Peterbilt 359 California Hauler came the early version of the truck with unilite cab, two-bar grille, single breather, roof-mounted AC and stabiliaire suspension. The features that vanished in time. It´s great to have it back.
First I wanted to build a stock box but then I found that some parts have to be replaced. Like the shock absorbers or the double donut air bags. They are of really bad shape. The interior tube is also out of question. So, I left the idea of stock box and went on my usual way of modifying some parts and replacing the others.
I stripped the chrome layer off the parts that I want to paint with a different color. This is the color combo that I would like to replicate.
 
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Starting out with a parts pile…
 
 
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I assembled the screaming Jimmy…
 
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And went on to frame parts…
 
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The engine will be white just as the frame. I will do all I can to make it look not as boring as it sounds. Here is the comparison between the original kit parts my replacement.
 
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I had to change the location of the height valve cross member due to space reasons. The valves are linked straight to the axle which is not right but I couldn´t find a better way.
 
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That´s it for the start. Up next- the hood.
 
 
 
Edited by truckabilly

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Jarda,

looking good thus far! I like the use of the rubber O-rings for the airbags. great idea!

be Well

Gator

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I remember when these were first released in kit form. They were something special and still are in my opinion. Someone else must think the same because they have sold every single one they ever molded. Carry-on. ;-))

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Nice, I will probably be using your build as reference for one I'm doing, which is going to be a 100% surprise, and will have basically no progress pics and will just pop up.

Might I ask what you used for the airbags?

Oh HA I just saw it was posted there, NM.

Edited by fantacmet

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Great work Jarda. After watching your 351 build, I cant wait to see this unfold. Very great choice of subject as well.A little window Pete with a Mercury sleeper is just too cool for school!

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Jarda, its great. ...and it will be better and better... I'm sure. Pavel.

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Jarda, I like what you've done so far! The details and air bags are terrific.

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That's Pete's is turning beautiful, I looking foward to your progress in this one. Question: are you going to use five spoke wheels in the rear wheels?

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I remember when these were first released in kit form. They were something special and still are in my opinion. Someone else must think the same because they have sold every single one they ever molded. Carry-on. ;-))

I do think the same too. There is an interesting story behind the kit. Starting out the boom in plastic model trucks, then dissappearing for ages to be found years later as a part of the 352 tooling. That´s just amazing.

That's Pete's is turning beautiful, I looking foward to your progress in this one. Question: are you going to use five spoke wheels in the rear wheels?

Probably not. I think I will use the original kit wheels front and rear. The 1:1 truck in the picture has some differences from the California Hauler kit. I will use the Mercury sleeper and sun visor. But the fuel tank arrangement is different and so is the grille. And I hesitate over the red mud flaps. Are they red on both sides? Can´t imagine the red oval on a red mud flap, so...

I don´t know.

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The 1:1 truck in the picture has some differences from the California Hauler kit. I will use the Mercury sleeper and sun visor. But the fuel tank arrangement is different and so is the grille. And I hesitate over the red mud flaps. Are they red on both sides? Can´t imagine the red oval on a red mud flap, so...

I don´t know.

The mudflaps would be red with the Pete logo in white. If you spray them red you can wet sand the logo back out. And for the grill, if you cut the moulded in screen out and let the radiator shutters show itll be just like the 1:1.

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And for the grill, if you cut the moulded in screen out and let the radiator shutters show itll be just like the 1:1.

 

That´s my plan.

 

The hood of the original AMT edition had no hinges and the recent reissue hasn´t them either. I copied a pair of hinges from RoG kit. If they won´t work, I´ll make another, then another untill it sets right. The pins are also ready.

 

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Every hood has some inside details but the kits have none. How could I go without something like this?

 

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Here is my added structure. Not 100% accurate but still better than nothing.

 

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I also corrected the fenders using Tim´s idea (I think he´s the author). To erase the gap between fenders front edge and bumper it is necessary to either add some material to the front of the fender or turn them forwards and add some material to the back. The latter requires more complex reshaping. I chose the more coplicated way to avoid the risk of a failure right in front of the truck. If something goes wrong, let it be hidden in the back.

First I cut off the tooth and step in the back of the fenders. I glued the fenders to the sides of the hood turned slightly forwards so that the the bottom edge of the grill and front edges of the fenders were even. Then I glued back the cut off tooth, slightly reshaped so that it would fit okay. The picture shows a hole but that´s filled with a piece of plastic now. I used the mud flap part to extend the material in the back of the fender. It took some putty to hide the joint.

The last modification of the fenders is the added lip made of Evergreen rod.

 

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I also repositioned the hole for the turn signal light (or is just clearance light?) so that it was on very top of the fender.

Till next time...

Edited by truckabilly

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cool... what are you doing to correct the airbags if I may ask?...

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Jarda, everything looks great so far (as expected), but I have to ask, where do the air line fittings come from?

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The under-hood structure is great work Jarda. I've thought about doing that also, but you beat me to it! Great job man.

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Great looking build so far.What size of o-ring did you use?

I bought a set with different sizes and used the one that was closest to original parts. The O-rings are 12 mm (0,472") of outter diameter and bout 2 mm (0,072) thick.

Jarda, everything looks great so far (as expected), but I have to ask, where do the air line fittings come from?

If you mean the one between the height valves, I bought a set of those parts years ago from someone at one of the local contests. If it is a straight line, I use hexagonal channel drilled in the middle and sliced in short pieces.

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fantastic as usual, really like the o-ring trick, I will have to remember that.

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