Harry P. Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 I want to pre-stain the raw material... it's much esier than building the panels first and then staining them. Here is the raw basswood vs. the stained... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 I'm starting with the main rear crossmember. This is where the lower rear tailgate will hinge on. First I had to add chamfers on the ends to clear the fenders... And here it is installed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 The rear corner posts have a few subtle details. First, they have a very slight curve to them. Instead of trying to soak and bend the wood, I did it the easy way: use a slightly larger piece and carve/sand the curve into it. The other detail is that each corner post will have a rib that extends outward a bit... just for some extra visual interest. I used two slightly thinner strips of wood for the rib pieces. I shaped them to the same exact curve as the corner posts, and sanded the exposed curved edge of the rib so it's rounded over. Very hard to even see that detail in 1/16 scale, but it's there. Then I glued the thinner "rib" to the thicker corner posts, offsetting the rib pieces so that the rib edge extends outward. By doing this i also automatically create a rabbet on the inside of the corner posts that will accept the birch veneer I'll use to make the panels: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 I'm using 1/32 birch veneer for my panels. Here you can see the contrast between the stained birch and the stained framework pieces. You can see the original color of the unstained birch on that little piece that's sticking out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 I used my template to cut out the panel for the rear piece, then I glued that panel to the rear door post, then glued the door post and panel assembly to the fender. I used a piece of scrap wood that I know has a perfect 90 degree angle to make sure the rear door post is perfectly vertical when looked at from the rear: In the photo above, if you look closely you can se that "rib" detail on the corner post that I was talking about, and how by offsetting the rib piece I created that rabbet along the inside of the corner post to accept the side glass. If you look really closely you can see my piece of wood that I'm using as a square actually riding in that rabbet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 The vertical piece at the front of the rear side panel needs a notch in it to accept that curved piece that's already glued to the fenders: It also needs a slot (a "kerf" in woodworking lingo) to accept the edge of the panel, and above the panel, the "glass" that will ultimately fill the window opening: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne swayze Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 This is interesting to watch. And now learning more about wood working terminology...kinda a win:win. Thanks Harry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzTom Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 Very nice. Going to watch the wood working real close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clovis Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 I love the work bench tutorials! I learn something new every time you post. Thanks for all the great tips, Harry!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 To quote an old Herman's Hermits song... "second verse, same as the first"... ... in other words, I built the second rear side panel exactly the same way as the first. As you can see, the kit floor ends at the point where it would have met the forward wall of the trunk. Since there is no "trunk" on a woody, I'll have to extend that floor back to the point where it will meet the new back wall of the woody body. But first I'll have to take care of the open area between the fenders, as you'll see in this next photo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 Here I have the chassis temporarily in place. You can see the gas tank between the fenders... the trunk floor would cover this on the "stock" bodied model, but I'll have to make a new floor here for the woody body. I didn't get fancy here with a curved panel to match the curvature of the gas tank. No real reason to. I just cut a piece of medium weight cardboard to fit the opening and glued it in place. No need to waste perfectly good (and expensive) sheet styrene here when the cardboard works perfectly well. And besides, this panel won't even be seen on the finished model... from below, the gas tank hides it, and from above, there will be a shallow slide-out drawer in this lower rear compartment, so you'll never even see this floor panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 The plan in the back is to have a lower compartment that houses a shallow slide-out drawer. That drawer will be outfitted with a scratchbuilt hunting rifle set like the one Skip posted earlier in this thread. This lower compartment will have it's own rear door that will swing down like a pickup's tailgate. This compartment will be entirely below the main floor of the woody. An upward-swinging liftgate will be fitted above this lower compartment to access the main storage area of the woody. So what I need is a divider that will attach between the rear posts, at floor level, to differentiate between upper and lower rear doors. I cut a piece to length, beveled one face of it to match the angle of the rear of the woody body, and cut a slot (a "kerf") in it to receive the back edge of the new extended floor. My saw blade wasn't thick enough to make this slot wide enough, so I widened the slot with a small file, using the file's edge... Then I made a cardboard template for the new rear floor... I cut the new floor from the same cardboard that I made the template from. Then I glued the rear edge of that new floor into the slot I had cut into the rear crossmember, and glued the new floor/crossmember assembly in place.. The interior of the lower compartment was painted flat black, and eventually the whole main floor of the woody will be painted flat black, to represent a plain rubber sheet floor (no fancy carpeting in a woody!)... Now that I have the horizontal divider beween lower compartment and main compartment in place, I can measure and build the lower compartment's swing-down door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 I'm 'Enery the eighth I am, 'Enery the eighth I am I am Wood work is looking great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 Nice work. Great tutorial. Its a pleasure to watch this come together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 Here I've added small side panels where the taillights will go. I built the lower tailgate, and let in both the lower edge of the tailgate and the door sill to accept the hinges. By letting in both the tailgate's lower piece and the sill, the hinges wind up spaced evenly between door and sill and lets the leaves of the hinges sit flush with the surface. It's the same way the hinges on the doors in your house are done. And here's the inside of that tailgate... you can see how the leaves of the hinge sit in those shallow recesses... Here is how the tailgate will look installed... but I won't actually install it yet. First I'll have to give everything several coats of "varnish" (I'll actually be using Future)... The hinges I used are brass dollhouse door hinges, and they're the standard dollhouse one inch scale (1/12 scale). That's slightly too big for a 1/16 car model, but I think they look ok. A bit oversized, technically... but to my eye they look "right." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 Coming along nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 As for the canvas roof, Gerald Wingrove uses the dull side of silk fabric for his 1/15 convertible tops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 I have some very fine weave cotton lying around... it's actually leftover sail material from a ship kit. Think that might work. But I'm a looooooooong way from building the top... that's the last step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne swayze Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 Terrific work here. I'm starting to "see" where you're headed, and it's a good place! Thanks for the tutorial! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 I'm 'Enery the eighth I am, 'Enery the eighth I am I am You win the "Name That Tune" portion of the WIP... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 You win the "Name That Tune" portion of the WIP... One of those stupid songs that is on my family's eternal playlist...just sticks in your head for infinity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 Terrific work here. I'm starting to "see" where you're headed, and it's a good place! Thanks for the tutorial! Wayne... a long way to go, but it's coming together. You can't imagine how many times I went through this building sequence in my head before actually starting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 Here is that drawer that will contain two hunting shotguns. The drawer is very short because the gas tank takes up most of the space in there... but I think I can fit two shotguns (broken down). Now all I need to do is figure out how to make operating full-extension drawer slides in 1/16 scale! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 BTW... does anyone know if 1/16 scale rifles exist? I've seen rifles in "dollhouse scale" (1/12)... just wondering if they also exist in 1/16. I can always scratchbuild them, no problem, but I figure if they already exist why re-invent the wheel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaughingIndian Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Here is that drawer that will contain two hunting shotguns. The drawer is very short because the gas tank takes up most of the space in there... but I think I can fit two shotguns (broken down). Now all I need to do is figure out how to make operating full-sxtension drawer slides in 1/16 scale! Rather than that beautiful slide out drawer, how about attaching the guns to the back of the tailgate as a drop down? They'd have to be secured in the drawer anyway, and it'd be similar in size. You could still use the drawer you made with slight mods to one side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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