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1937 RR woody... I mean, "shooting brake"...


Harry P.

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May I suggest a pair of Purdey double-barrel, side-by-side shotguns for milord's shooting party? You're exceptional at building luggage.

http://www.icollector.com/Pair-of-Purdey-full-side-lock-double-barrel-side-by-side-shotguns-in-original-leather-over-oak-carr_i8787495

Purdey%20shotguns1_zpsyv1j5sm1.png

"Pair of Purdey full side lock double-barrel side by side shotguns, in original leather over oak carrying case with label in lid. Serial numbers 17550 and 17551. The pair show 30 barrels, nitro proofed for 2-1/2 shells and 3 tons (now opened to 2-3/4). Both guns are beautifully scroll and floral engraved and show best London quality....They are cased within their original to-the-period English style red-lined case, which shows James Purdey label in lid with south Audley street address, and original label denoting charges showing correct serial number. The case remains in original very good condition and shows the name H. D. Stanning, Leyland embossed in top of leather cover."

Purdey%20gun%20case_zpslijkwnd7.png

Perfect for shooting pheasants. Or peasants.

Now that's cool!

My plan is to have a lower rear compartment, below the main rear doors, accessible by a door that opens downward like a station wagon tailgate. A setup like this on a slide-out tray would be too cool! Dang, Skip... you've put that into my head now and I think I might just have to give it a try!

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Not much new to report today... been working on the chassis and engine. Nothing of any particular interest there, it's all pretty standard stuff. I'll post a photo or two of the chassis and engine when I'm ready, but of course the real meat of this thread is the woody body, which I have yet to start on. As soon as I do, progress pix will be forthcoming... B)

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Harry, are toy going to do the wood in the actual species or balsa?

Balsa is no good, it has a very prominent grain that would be totally out of scale on this model. For the framework I'll use basswood, which is a very light colored wood (almost white), with no visible grain pattern. I can stain it to look like any species, and there is no out-of-scale grain to look at. For the flat panels I'll be using 1/64" birch veneer, which I will also stain.

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At this point I glued the firewall to the cowl, because I need to temporarily put the cowl in place on the fenders in order to get the exact angle for the front edges of the front doors. The cowl alone didn't have enough area on the bottom to sit steady and flat on the fenders, so I glued the firewall to the cowl to give me more flat bottom edges to sit solidly on the fenders. I also removed the top of the windshield frame, the new roof will cover that. And I also reinforced the joint between cowl and firewall with square styrene rod for extra strength.

rr21_zps9ukgutaq.jpg

rr20_zps6txb4jhl.jpg

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The woodworking begins! You can't see it here under all the clamps, but there are pieces of 1/8" square basswood rods being formed to shape. The wood was soaked overnight to soften it and allow me to bend it around the fairly tight radius of the fenders without snapping. The strips of cardboard are there to protect the soft wet wood from clamp marks. Once these two pieces dry completely they will hold the shape and I can start building the body. BTW... I filled the holes in the fenders with sheet styrene. Those holes are for the stock taillights, which won't be used on the woody body. And besides, they would wind up being on the inside of the body walls, so I couldn't have used those stock taillight positions anyway...

rr23_zpsbgw48po5.jpg

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While the wood is drying I'll jump around to other things. The Phantom III kit that I'm converting to a woody comes with spoked wheels, but I wanted full wheel covers. I got a set of covers from another RR kit I have lying around...

rr27_zpscucwtv6y.jpg

When I eventually build this model, I'll just use the unused spoked wheels from the Phantom III.

Here are the Phantom III tires and WW inserts with the Phantom II full wheel cover components. The covers fit the Phantom III tires perfectly...

rr24_zpsmo1x0d2a.jpg

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Exactly my plan for putting wheel covers on the Phantom III. I've collected spare parts from the PII kit, and a couple of glue bombs. It took a couple of donors to accommodate the spare wheels. The lacing wire wheels from the Mercedes SS kit are also the same size, and look great on the PII. Not that the PIII wire wheels have any problems - they're pretty good for plastic.

Edited by sjordan2
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No green, I don't like green RRs. I was thinking gray with black fenders... then pale yellow with black fenders and black wheel covers. That's where I'm going. I think the light and dark woods will look great against pale yellow "sheetmetal" and black fenders. Black seats, black door panels, black "rubber" floor. No frills inside.

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The woodworking begins! You can't see it here under all the clamps, but there are pieces of 1/8" square basswood rods being formed to shape. The wood was soaked overnight to soften it and allow me to bend it around the fairly tight radius of the fenders without snapping. The strips of cardboard are there to protect the soft wet wood from clamp marks. Once these two pieces dry completely they will hold the shape and I can start building the body. BTW... I filled the holes in the fenders with sheet styrene. Those holes are for the stock taillights, which won't be used on the woody body. And besides, they would wind up being on the inside of the body walls, so I couldn't have used those stock taillight positions anyway...

rr23_zpsbgw48po5.jpg

The woodworker in me is loving this....bending wood and all.

I have made some curvy things with gluing thin multi-laminations then put into a form...even more fun when you steam them first to really soften the fibres

Watch out for spring-back after the clamps come off that might open up gaps. ? Maybe pin the wood through the fender for some mechanical hold??

Edited by Twokidsnosleep
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The woodworker in me is loving this....bending wood and all.

I have made some curvy things with gluing thin multi-laminations then put into a form...even more fun when you steam them first to really soften the fibres

Watch out for spring-back after the clamps come off that might open up gaps. ? Maybe pin the wood through the fender for some mechanical hold??

Not to worry. Harry is a master at working with wood for ship models, antique aircraft frames, stagecoaches and riverboats, etc.

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No green, I don't like green RRs. I was thinking gray with black fenders... then pale yellow with black fenders and black wheel covers. That's where I'm going. I think the light and dark woods will look great against pale yellow "sheetmetal" and black fenders. Black seats, black door panels, black "rubber" floor. No frills inside.

Then I vote for maroon and black with 2-tone wheel covers. I just think the wood needs a rich contrast, and I don't see a pale yellow on this kind of SUV sporting car -- Goldfinger's car, yes. Not this one.

Edited by sjordan2
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Pale yellow has already been approved by my design committee. :P

The only question is matching fenders or black fenders?

I think you'll like it when you see the finished car.

With black fenders, it will look pretty much like your Mercedes SS, right? That's better than all pale yellow with the same color fenders, which might look something like a white wedding rental car.

Edited by sjordan2
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Here is a sneak preview of what's to come. The yellow area of the wheel cover is painted... it's almost the exact same shade as the unpainted fenders:

rr29_zpscwi4neys.jpg

I think I've decided on yellow fenders (sorry, Skip... :D ). Well, maybe 90% sure. I do like the idea of the black running board tread area and black wheel covers contrasting with the yellow fenders, and I like the contrast between the pale yellow and the wood of the body. I can picture the car in my mind... it looks good. ;)

But maybe black fenders is the way to go. Hmmm... I'll have to think about this... :D

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The woodworker in me is loving this....bending wood and all.

I have made some curvy things with gluing thin multi-laminations then put into a form...even more fun when you steam them first to really soften the fibres

Watch out for spring-back after the clamps come off that might open up gaps. ? Maybe pin the wood through the fender for some mechanical hold??

I expect some springback once the clamps come off, but the basic shape will hold. I'll use CA to glue this piece to the fender surface, I don't see any problem forcing a thin piece like this to snug down to the fenders. I'll glue the front end first, let it dry, then use clamps to hold the rest in place as I flow CA into the joint from the inside. I don't see any problems.

The good news is, these two pieces are the only ones that need serious bending, everything else will be pretty much straight pieces... unless I decide to put an arc into the roofline from front to back. I'm still debating a curved roofline vs. a straight shot. I like the look of a curved roofline, but I also like the simplicity of a straight line. Not to mention how much easier it would be to make it straight rather than arced! :lol:

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