my66s55 Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 Here's the intake & exhaust manifolds with the carb and air cleaner. I'll hold off attaching them to the engine until later as I have to handle the engine quite a bit before final assembly. I received the new resin on Friday and have been printing out new front suspension pieces which I will assemble next. It appears to be stronger than that which I was using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 That's really amazing, never thought I'd see anything like this happening when I got back into modeling. Strikes me as funny though when I hear people complaining about a little flash, mold lines, mismatch and other junk when lots of us would readily put up with a lot of this if we were able to build a 3D printed piece of something never kitted. For that matter look at some of the resin blobs, (some of which made slush cast parts look great) that a lot of Modelers in Europe have been turning into nice models for years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted July 26, 2015 Author Share Posted July 26, 2015 Small update. I got the front crank shaft pulley, starter motor and generator drawn up and printed, but unfortunately, the daily thunder storm rolled in soon after I printed the generator and I couldn't get the sun cure on it. Here's the starter. Here's the pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share Posted July 28, 2015 Got the generator done, but it's been raining all day so it's not sun cured yet. It's printed in 2 pieces that can be printed at the same time. Some of the supports are still attached on the one end. I have to wait until the sun cure to make it hard enough to trim any closer. You can see the fan fins on the end were the pulley attaches. Just another example of the kind of print that can be expected from these machines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kustom Steve Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 I know you want to print your own parts but www.tth.com has several 3d printers, They have a Viper printer that has high resolution and would need little finishing work. I had some parts printed for my scale wargaming miniatures I build as well. I can vouch for the quality since I work for the company as a finisher, The viper printer is better resolution than Shapeways and less brittle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 That's very thoughtful of you Steve, but I don't think you have read this entire post. If you did, you would realize that my dlp printer prints great resolution and needs very little if any finish work to parts it prints. Guys are printing their own war gaming miniatures at home themselves on sla dlp printers. My main purpose of this w.i.p is to show the difference in the fdm filament style printers that are so cheap and the advancement in 3d printing into small, high detail parts. An update to this w.i.p is coming soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted August 30, 2015 Author Share Posted August 30, 2015 I drew up the cooling fan and printed it out. Unfortunately my camera refused to give me a good focus. You can barely make out the bolt heads. The doors have been done for about a year. I wanted to show you how important it is to know what you printer can do and to learn the best position to get the best print you can. The inner skin was printed streight up on the build platform of the fdm printer in the same position as these pictures. They are 1/16th thick and and 2 1/2 inches high. The outer skin and door jambs were added later. Currently, I am working on the firewall. It was printed on the high def sla dlp printer after I created the file. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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