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Applying Clear Lacquers

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Do you decant and shoot through an airbrush or apply it straight from the can? What brand do you use?

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I've been using Testors wet-look clear from the can. I like it a lot. I've also used Future through an airbrush with good results.

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Tamiya TS-13 and Duplicolor BCL0125 straight from the can. I like the TS-13 best.

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I've been using PPG products for a long time now. DCA468 Hi-performance clear, and DTL105 thinner.

The owner of Cobra Colors opened my eyes to these products. Air Brush only.

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TS-13 goes on thinner than Testor Wet Look but it has a well known trait of being finicky as far as proper application time over the color coats.Wet Look doesn't have that problem and is far less worrisome to apply over decals.The two clears polish out nicely but Testor takes more effort because of it's thicker coats.

Edited by ZTony8

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I've settled on Duplicolor clear from the can.

The thing I really like about it is the fact that it goes on so thin.

The project I'm working on right now has 5 coats of clear with no hiding of any detail.

Steve

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I have had a difficult time using Future as a clear coat. I used it on my 12:1 Ford GT MK II and after a month the clear coat started to micro crack.

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I also use Duplicolor clear from the can, always with good results. I've occasionally used Tamiya clears, both gloss and semigloss, also with good results from the cans.

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I use Tamiya clear now. I've all but abandoned Testor's regular clears, and heck their regular paint too. I used the wet look clear once, and was not happy with the turn out of it. I personally don't like wetsanding and buffing my models after paint, and I've found that for me, Tamiya's clears go on really well and smooth compared to testors' orange peel look no matter how I do it.

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To me, it all depends! If I want to avoid "softening" or hiding all the raised detailing on a factory stock build bodyshell, airbrush it will be. On a custom that has had virtually all factory trim shaved off, then why not the "dipped in syrup" shine that can be gotten from the much heavier, wetter spray pattern directly from the aerosol can?

Art

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http://media.fotki.com/1_p,rswkwktbgkrdqwgxgtsrdwtkfbqf,vi/ttbgfkkkwxfqgftsrdxskdqkqgkd/1/1307210/5997405/OutsideshotsoftheCuda10-vi.jpg

Testors Wet Look Clear out of the can. Master the use of a polishing system and you will do great!

Marcos, That is absolutely beautiful!

Has anyone used Testors Custom Lacquer System's Ultra Gloss Clear Coat?

Is it as good as Testors Wet Look Clear?

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I use the wetlook clear now as well. I'm a heavy handed polisher and this stuff goes on a little thicker than Tamiya and is a little tougher too in my opinion.

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I sprayed Testors Ultra Gloss today, and it looks great. I'll polish it out after a week or so of "gassing out."

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Marcos, That is absolutely beautiful!

Has anyone used Testors Custom Lacquer System's Ultra Gloss Clear Coat?

Is it as good as Testors Wet Look Clear?

I've used both & really can't see any difference.

Be vigilant with curing & re-coat times!

I stopped using them both when I started having real issues with cracking.

Steve

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I've tried both Testors "One Coat" paints (metallics) and Tamiya (still being an amateur at can painting); I've followed Marco's advice concerning mist coats and then following coats for base. As for clear coats, I only had to wait a day or two to apply decals to Testors and the I waited 48 hours before applying their clear. No problems and I'm really not familiar with polishing systems at this time either.

As for Tamiya, this whole issue of using TS-13 has got me like a cat up a tree. I don't shoot models that don't have decals, so I'm looking for real world experience using Tamiya products from start to finish. Their website and linked articles are full of contradictions IMO. Here's my latest project: MAD Jerry Tolliver funny car, body in white. I used Tamiya grey primer first and then fine white to ensure the body was free of mold lines and lightly sanded for the base. I shot the Lavender base TS product and then let it gas for 6-7 days. I now have to paint one small rear spoiler strip yellow along with the fins, which means using some thin Tamiya tape and newspaper to protect the rest of the body. Once these parts are gassed, the whole thing will be assembled and decals will be applied.

So, can I apply my TS-13 then or do I have to wait the remainder of time to total an entire month from base to clear? Seriously, I saw that as one of the warnings. I just want to know dry/gassing time for TS paints and then wait time for TS-13.

Thanks!!!!

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I've tried both Testors "One Coat" paints (metallics) and Tamiya (still being an amateur at can painting); I've followed Marco's advice concerning mist coats and then following coats for base. As for clear coats, I only had to wait a day or two to apply decals to Testors and the I waited 48 hours before applying their clear. No problems and I'm really not familiar with polishing systems at this time either.

As for Tamiya, this whole issue of using TS-13 has got me like a cat up a tree. I don't shoot models that don't have decals, so I'm looking for real world experience using Tamiya products from start to finish. Their website and linked articles are full of contradictions IMO. Here's my latest project: MAD Jerry Tolliver funny car, body in white. I used Tamiya grey primer first and then fine white to ensure the body was free of mold lines and lightly sanded for the base. I shot the Lavender base TS product and then let it gas for 6-7 days. I now have to paint one small rear spoiler strip yellow along with the fins, which means using some thin Tamiya tape and newspaper to protect the rest of the body. Once these parts are gassed, the whole thing will be assembled and decals will be applied.

So, can I apply my TS-13 then or do I have to wait the remainder of time to total an entire month from base to clear? Seriously, I saw that as one of the warnings. I just want to know dry/gassing time for TS paints and then wait time for TS-13.

Thanks!!!!

Honestly I just judge it by feel. If you've put on a couple of heavy color coats just let it gas out for a few days then apply clear. Waiting for weeks isn't necessary and I haven't had a problem with it.

The problem with ts-13 is that it is "hot". it can and will destroy decals. This is why wetlook clear maybe more suitable in that application.

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Tamiya TS13 right out of the can. Also testing Mr Hobby Super Clear,the Mr Hobby clear imo comes more gentle on.

Have used TS13 over decals with no problem.

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Does anyone decant Testors Wet Look or Ultra Gloss Clear Coat and spray with an airbrush?

If so is there a big difference in the thickness and the smoothness of the coats?

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The only way I "decant" clear is to spray it right on a body out of the can without mixing, thinning, setting the right air pressure, water traps, compressors, dehydrators, etc. I also shoot my clear 24 hours after my color coats and never had any problems.

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Thanks guys, but as you see when I originally posted - everyone may have different experiences. That's why I mentioned I always use decals so that could be factored in to any responses. The decals I've been running into lately in mid 2000 Revell funny car kits say wait 48 hours after painting before applying. Testors One Coat dries within 24 hours or maybe a little more. I allow the extra time with Tamiya because I apply extra coats and wait longer in between each one (45 mins) after the mist coats.

What about the old saying of stick to the same product line from start to finish? I have Testors One Coat shiny clear coat. Anyone heard of compatibility problems with Testors lacquer clear over Tamiya lacquer base? I don't want to try the "floor wax" liquid experiment again LOL. If anyone can recommend a nice clear coat with shine that won't discolor or destroy decals or craze my paint job, please let me know! Thanks again. ;)

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I've never tried it over decals, but I use Testors Clear Gloss Lacquer. I don't have to decant it cause it's sold in bottles. Usually needs no thinning to airbrush nicely, and is a thin coat so it gives a nice gloss without looking too thick. I use it over Testors enamel and lacquer with no problem. It's water clear, and after 3 years I haven't noticed any yellowing. I've also mixed it with pearl powders, and that worked well too.

Edited by Kit Basher

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The only way I "decant" clear is to spray it right on a body out of the can without mixing, thinning, setting the right air pressure, water traps, compressors, dehydrators, etc. I also shoot my clear 24 hours after my color coats and never had any problems.

I always like that description for "decanting". :D

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About a week ago I shot a test spoon with a fresh coat of Krylon 'Fusion', (ya, I know) it already had a couple of coats that had cured out , waited 30 minutes and sprayed it with TS-13, didn't even follow the directions, went straight for a 'wet' coat, came out perfect. All this AND the relative humidity was around 55-60%. I like TS-13. Next I'm gonna try Dupli-Color 'Color Match' clear.

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