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So today I pulled the trigger and bought the Paasche H Single Action Airbrush kit. I've read a lot of good reviews on this brush and it seems that as long as I take care of it properly I should be in the clear!
I do have a few questions as a newbie to airbrushing. I have a portable booth I made using a bilge blower and while it works great for over spray, fumes from the spray cans stunk up the room even with the window open. How are the fumes from an airbrush compare to spray cans? Will the water based paints have less odor? I would love to be able to paint indoors without odors. Hoping this will solve my problem for rainy day and the winter months.

Also I try to stay clear of harbor freight for most of the time depending on the purchase, but I've heard that they actually have a decent air compressor for an airbrush that is very reasonably priced. have any of you used it before? If so, how has it been treating you?

Thanks guys!

- Steve

Edited by 1hobby1
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Get Harbor Freight's pancake compressor. More power, has a tank so there's no pulsing, and it works well. Great for a lot of stuff around the house, too.

Charlie Larkin

I'll look into it, thank you!

You have lots of options for Paints. Lately I have been using Auto Air colors from Createx found at Hobby Lobby and some of the LHS. they shoot nicely without a lot of work before or after, cleaning is a breeze.

Sounds like a good option, how is the odor of the paints when spraying?

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Also for paint mixture, I watched a video on YouTube of someone using the same brush (Paasche H single action) and he mixed the small jar of testers enamel with regular lacquer thinner 1:1 at 35psi and from the looks of the video the results were very very good. Has anyone tried this method before?

What are your best airbrush paint brands, thinning brands, and best way to clean the brush after.

Sorry for all the questions this is my first airbrush!

Thanks guys!

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Also for paint mixture, I watched a video on YouTube of someone using the same brush (Paasche H single action) and he mixed the small jar of testers enamel with regular lacquer thinner 1:1 at 35psi and from the looks of the video the results were very very good. Has anyone tried this method before?

What are your best airbrush paint brands, thinning brands, and best way to clean the brush after.

If you're concerned with odor, this is not the way to go. Testor's enamels are solvent-based, and they are the old stuff that stinks to high heaven. Yes, you can thin with lacquer thinner - it helps speed up drying, but they will still take many days to dry and cure. Normally, you would use mineral spirits/turpentine/paint thinner.

In the previous message, you asked about Auto Air and its odor... Compared to enamels, any acrylic is going to smell like nothing at all. However, be prepared to learn all about reducing Auto Air, and practice this religiously... remember that this paint was originally created for auto shops and their higher powered spray guns. Make sure you read the instructions about airbrushing. This paint can be kind of translucent, in that it seems to take forever to get full coverage. But don't try to speed up the process by applying more paint - you could wind up causing runs.

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What are your best airbrush paint brands, thinning brands, and best way to clean the brush after.

Testors One-Coat Lacquers/Model Master Custom Lacquer System.

I use regular lacquer thinner to thin these (if necessary - decanting them for airbrushing - you may not need any additional thinning), and for general cleanup of my airbrush.

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So Testors enamels seem to be out of the question for me because of the odor. Acrylics seem to be the way to go for much less odor which is exactly what I am looking for. Thank you!

For the mixing 1:1 seems to be very popular with good results. Does that work the same with acrylics?

Any brand lacquer thinner will do correct? I'm sure Autozone, Home Depot etc. all have large bins I can buy and also use the thinner for cleaning.

Thanks once again!

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attachicon.gifimage.jpg

So today I pulled the trigger and bought the Paasche H Single Action Airbrush kit. I've read a lot of good reviews on this brush and it seems that as long as I take care of it properly I should be in the clear!

I do have a few questions as a newbie to airbrushing. I have a portable booth I made using a bilge blower and while it works great for over spray, fumes from the spray cans stunk up the room even with the window open. How are the fumes from an airbrush compare to spray cans? Will the water based paints have less odor? I would love to be able to paint indoors without odors. Hoping this will solve my problem for rainy day and the winter months.

Also I try to stay clear of harbor freight for most of the time depending on the purchase, but I've heard that they actually have a decent air compressor for an airbrush that is very reasonably priced. have any of you used it before? If so, how has it been treating you?

Thanks guys!

- Steve

Perfect choice. Wear a good respirator / charcoal mask when spraying & be sure to replace the cartridges on a regular basis as needed. try to seal an area off with sheet plastic ( from ceiling to floor - have a panel of the heavy plastic with a slit as doorway ) - Seal off any vents to avoid any fumes entering other areas of the house. The ideal set up - use one window for fan & adjacent window that can be opened ( 2-3 inches is fine ) - for cross ventilation. Despite low fumes with water based paint, do not asume it is safer than solvent based paint - they still are made of harmful pigments, although they may have a different carrier than solvent based; you don't want them in your system & your pores & skin will readily absorb them. Take your time learning, try to adjust the airbrush & pressure until you get the results you desire. Expect mistakes & learn by them - they are part of the learning curve. Distance & speed of your passes are very important & once you get the feel of it, will become second nature. If you need help feel free to message me.

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Sounds like you should get Don Yost's video "The Art of Airbrushing Show Quality Model Cars" I know many here will swear by Don's advice. He also swears by using enamels thinned with lacquer thinner.

As far as a compressor with a holding tank, you should read this recent post here about them

Ive watched a few of Dons videos online already. really helpful stuff. I hear enamels thinned with lacquer thinner is a great combination, I would really like to keep the odor to a minimum and as stated above, it is probably not my best bet. So I think I'm going to try acrylics first.

I'll give that compressor page a read as well.

Thank you! very helpful.

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Perfect choice. Wear a good respirator / charcoal mask when spraying & be sure to replace the cartridges on a regular basis as needed. try to seal an area off with sheet plastic ( from ceiling to floor - have a panel of the heavy plastic with a slit as doorway ) - Seal off any vents to avoid any fumes entering other areas of the house. The ideal set up - use one window for fan & adjacent window that can be opened ( 2-3 inches is fine ) - for cross ventilation. Despite low fumes with water based paint, do not asume it is safer than solvent based paint - they still are made of harmful pigments, although they may have a different carrier than solvent based; you don't want them in your system & your pores & skin will readily absorb them. Take your time learning, try to adjust the airbrush & pressure until you get the results you desire. Expect mistakes & learn by them - they are part of the learning curve. Distance & speed of your passes are very important & once you get the feel of it, will become second nature. If you need help feel free to message me.

Thank you, I will keep all of this in mind. My bench area is set up in my basement and the basement is fully finished with out any windows. I've been opening a door to the hatchway as ventilation, and with spray cans (duplicolor, model masters) it has still managed to stink up the basement pretty strong.

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So Testors enamels seem to be out of the question for me because of the odor. Acrylics seem to be the way to go for much less odor which is exactly what I am looking for. Thank you!

For the mixing 1:1 seems to be very popular with good results. Does that work the same with acrylics?

Any brand lacquer thinner will do correct? I'm sure Autozone, Home Depot etc. all have large bins I can buy and also use the thinner for cleaning.

Don't use lacquer thinner in acrylics! Some folks would tell you to use water; some - Simple Green; but I have personally found that those can be touchy to get the right ratio (or to get the paint to atomize correctly). If I have to airbrush an acrylic, I will first of all consider if the manufacturer offers a recommended "reducer", and use that. They also usually suggest a ratio for thinning. If they don't offer a specific reducer, I use Airbrush Medium by Liquitex. It has stuff in it that's only GOOD for the paint (as opposed to Simple Green and water).

If you just want the LT for cleanup, any brand will do.

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Ive watched a few of Dons videos online already. really helpful stuff. I hear enamels thinned with lacquer thinner is a great combination, I would really like to keep the odor to a minimum and as stated above, it is probably not my best bet. So I think I'm going to try acrylics first.

That's how I started when I re-entered the hobby about 5 years ago. I was determined to find a way to make acrylics look as good as lacquers... I failed! Doesn't mean you won't succeed, but it isn't going to be easy... so, don't expect your first try to become the exact look you were hoping for. BTW, please keep us abreast of your progress (I would love to know about your results using acrylics)!

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Stating that enamels take many days to cure when cut with cheap lacquer thinner is patently false ! I cleared three bodies yesterday morning and wet sanded them out this morning . That's within a 24 hour period .........

Booth temperature was 68 degrees with low humidity . Generally speaking , a one to three day flashout period is to be expected when using a cheap lacquer thinner to cut the enamels with .

Donn Yost

Lone Wolf Custom Painting

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Enamels seem to give best results. Acrylics seem more tricky. How do lacqueres compare to these? After some more research enamels seem easiest to work with and give best results. Looks like I'm going to have to do some experimenting.

Hobby lobby sells some air brush paints and thinners but I haven't done much research on them.

Also does anyone have a Paasche airbrush using a harbor freight air brush compressor? Do they hook right up? If not where did you find connections to fit?

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Stating that enamels take many days to cure when cut with cheap lacquer thinner is patently false ! I cleared three bodies yesterday morning and wet sanded them out this morning . That's within a 24 hour period .........

Agree completely. I've done the same thing many times.

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I have one of these, bought it in 2002 (when its price was actually HIGHER than it is today) and couldn't be happier with it. C-H has an extensive repair network if you ever need to get it fixed (I haven't--never had a bit of trouble with it). If mine went TU, I'd buy another one tomorrow with no hesitation.

I've often said that the day I brought this thing home and hooked it up, replacing a small "hobby" compressor, was the single happiest day of my modeling life.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Campbell-Hausfeld-3-Gallon-110psi-Air-Compressor-11pc-Accessory-Set-Bundle/12534870

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Thank you, I will keep all of this in mind. My bench area is set up in my basement and the basement is fully finished with out any windows. I've been opening a door to the hatchway as ventilation, and with spray cans (duplicolor, model masters) it has still managed to stink up the basement pretty strong.

Well, not to be rude & tell you to ignore all the other paint advise, but with your current setup, water based is the only logical way to go; without better circulation ; you will be smelling any & all type of solvent based paint. Now, if at some point you are able to get a proper setup, then you want to go with the real deal - good automotive lacquer ; not hobby paints it's like day & night - there is no comparrison, despite what some half-assed - so called "experts" may preach.

Edited by Krazy Rick
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I've never been happy with the finish of the acrylics on bodies. I love them for interiors and under car- under hood work. I highly recommend primer first. They are not solvent based so they do not "etch". Adhesion can be an issue particularly if the parts get handled a lot. I've seen others get good results on bodies with acrylic paints. I'm not knocking them, that's just been my experience.

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has anyone used Tamiya Acrylics with the Tamiya x20 thinner? I assume since it is acrylic it wont have a strong odor like the enamels.

I have used Tamiya acrylic thinned with alcohol (which is what Tamiya's thinner is) - I airbrushed some clear blue on a windshield, and it turned out very nice. Since it's cut with alcohol, it will also remove Tamiya paint (had to do the windshield twice - hence - how I know). Odors are almost undetectable.

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The createx wicked colors are a breeze to use, easy to thin, and cover really good. Use their reducer to thin,they don't have an offensive odor.lots of colors to choose from. Flake,translucent, opaque.

Thank you! I'll give these a look at as well

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