fseva Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 (edited) Well, I screwed up my latest project - a 59 Imperial - the trunk panel line wound up right next to the parting line that went from each fin and then down to the bottom. I was having trouble getting the parting line out, even priming to see if that would seal it up, but without much success. Finally, I decided to sand the heck out of it, and in the process lost the trunk panel line in that area. So, does anyone have a tip for me to use in the future? Edited July 4, 2015 by fseva Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 A few years ago, I did a buildup/Modeling 101 on AMT's '49 Mercury. Without going into a long explanation, and since I'm a believer in pictures being worth a thousand words, take a look here, and look at pics #4-11 (and a bit further). I have the pics captioned to explain what I did. Hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 One thing would to make the panel line deeper and then proceed with removing the seam. At this point it will be harder but if you use tape you shoild be able the rescribe the line carefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 I usually use masking tape to protect detail when cleaning up mold lines. Scribing a panel line deeper as Bob suggests would be also good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 As far as rescribing lines, I like to use Trumpeter's Scribing Tool. Makes quick work of deepening lines, and also cutting through plastic in case I want to cut the doors open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fseva Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 A few years ago, I did a buildup/Modeling 101 on AMT's '49 Mercury. Without going into a long explanation, and since I'm a believer in pictures being worth a thousand words, take a look here, and look at pics #4-11 (and a bit further). I have the pics captioned to explain what I did. Hope this helps! Yes, I can see how the Tamiya tape would have protected my panel line! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fseva Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 One thing would to make the panel line deeper and then proceed with removing the seam. At this point it will be harder but if you use tape you shoild be able the rescribe the line carefully. I really hate rescribing, because no matter what I do, I always slip up and put a scratch in my model. Otherwise, I can see how deepening the line before would have helped. I actually tried some FBS Proband tape to attempt a rescribe, but found that my Trumpeter scriber just pushed it aside. I was able to get it done by just taking my time and starting where the line was OK. Sure did have palpitations doing that curved corner, though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fseva Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 As far as rescribing lines, I like to use Trumpeter's Scribing Tool. Makes quick work of deepening lines, and also cutting through plastic in case I want to cut the doors open. I've tried quite a few, including my latest which was a photo-etch scriber (it was too flexible and couldn't handle any kind of pressure), and now I have returned to my Trumpeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisBcritter Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Does the Trumpeter scriber cut a finer groove than the Tamiya scriber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fseva Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 (edited) Does the Trumpeter scriber cut a finer groove than the Tamiya scriber? I have both, but do not like the Tamiya - for some reason, it does not seem to cut smoothly. I always wind up going back to the Trumpeter - it seems to give me less problems in the long run. As far as fineness of the groove, the heads are about the same thickness, so I would think that they are pretty close in this respect. This from the man who can't seem to do a panel line without a slip - take it for what it's worth... Edited July 7, 2015 by fseva Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fseva Posted July 31, 2015 Author Share Posted July 31, 2015 I used the suggestions on my latest build of a Viper GTS - there was a mold line directly above the beautiful Viper badges on the front quarter panels. I covered them with blue painters tape and went to work on the line. I was skeptical, but I never had to sand hard enough to wear through the tape. So, my badges are intact! Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveM Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Squadron makes a seam scraper that dies the trick pretty well. Otherwise, make yourself a thin sanding stick by gluing sandpaper to the edge of a plastic spoon handle, or other flat item of appropriate width. With either one, patience and a steady hand are helpful. Don't try to get the whole seam cleaned up in one or two passes. Work it down slowly, and you are less likely to slide off and destroy adjacent detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.