[[Template core/front/global/utilitiesMenu does not exist. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]
  • Announcements

    • Dave Ambrose

      Board Status   07/20/2018

      We're still trying to solve a disk space problem. Unfortunately, it's being stubborn about getting rectified. There will be a long maintenance window this weekend, which I will announce here. Thank you all for being patient. 
russosborne

Thoughts on Perfect Plastic Putty?

Recommended Posts

http://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=pd_bxgy_21_text_z

I came across this stuff while looking at the Trumpeter Parting Line Engraver that was recommended in another post and this stuff was listed as a suggested "frequently bought together" from Amazon.

It's water based, which is good from a health standpoint, but does it really work? Seems a tad expensive, but I don't know whether the size is comparable with other putties. If it works it would be worth it just for the no fume part to me at least.

Thanks,

Russ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The reviews seem to be good news. It is not cheap but if you are only using it to fill some small seems it might not be that bad if it last a long time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Super Glue mixed with Baby Powder works for me. Gives me a chance to use up my bottles of glue with messed up caps and the glue is getting thicker.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

http://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=pd_bxgy_21_text_z

I came across this stuff while looking at the Trumpeter Parting Line Engraver that was recommended in another post and this stuff was listed as a suggested "frequently bought together" from Amazon.

It's water based, which is good from a health standpoint, but does it really work? Seems a tad expensive, but I don't know whether the size is comparable with other putties. If it works it would be worth it just for the no fume part to me at least.

Thanks,

Russ

Russ,

I have used it several times and LOVE it! Because it is not solvent based, it does not damage surrounding detail. I haven't had any adhesion problems. As it is NOT solvent based, NO noxious odors! It sands and feathers well - another great feature. Check out the videos on Youtube. A 40ml tube costs $7-8.00 at most hobby stores. Any LH?S that uses Horizon Hobby can get it or any of the Deluxe Materials products for you. I have no financial or material connection to this product. I am just a happy customer!

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tamiya White Putty is ~$4.50 @1.12oz.

I used that on my last build and liked it- got it at Hobby Lobby with a 40% off coupon

I used to use Gunze Sangyo Mr. White Putty and I liked it too, but my LHS stopped carrying it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks.

I may give it a try at some point. The solvent free part is a major plus for me, I have several health issues. I'm trying to go solvent free as much as possible, but I don't think that is possible for everything in this hobby.

Russ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use it mostly because Im in the UK and I wanted an alternative to Squadron which I do not like. It works great for me, smooth to apply dries fast and sands beautifully, and also as already mentioned its solvent free.

Ive had a tube for over a year now and its not dried in the tube either which is good news.

I use a fair amount of Deluxe products and they are very good indeed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm curious, it seems the Tamiya White Putty dries hard as a rock. I also find myself thinning it here and there due to quick chunkification.

I've been going back and forth between it and Bondo Spot Putty but both are solvant based. Although the Bondo stuff is really cool to work with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just got two more tubes that I ordered a few days ago and the manufacturer has corrected the only thing I did not like about it....the tube it is packaged in. The first one I got was in an oddly shaped almost triangular tube that is very difficult to hold and squeeze as it empties. The new tubes are supplied in a toothpaste style tube which will be much better.

I really like the fact that is not solvent based. Clean up is simple and quick with a damp cloth instead of using lacquer thinner. I scratch build 1/25 scale travel trailers from the 1930's and '40's that have a lot of compound curves and not having the skills to create those shapes from styrene I shape them with blue house builders foam,sand to almost final shape with sanding sticks then coat the final shape with perfect plastic putty. Lacquer based putty attacks and dissolves the foam so this stuff is the perfect solution for me. It dries quickly and sands to  a smooth finish.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, misterNNL said:

I scratch build 1/25 scale travel trailers from the 1930's and '40's that have a lot of compound curves and not having the skills to create those shapes from styrene I shape them with blue house builders foam,sand to almost final shape with sanding sticks then coat the final shape with perfect plastic putty. Lacquer based putty attacks and dissolves the foam so this stuff is the perfect solution for me. It dries quickly and sands to  a smooth finish.

 

Very interesting. I need to scratchbuild a nose for a B-26 bomber and have been thinking of doing something along these lines. Tell us about that "house builders foam." I was thinking to use green styrofoam from a crafts store meant to stick flowers in, shape it a little undersized, and coat it with J-B Weld. This would have the added advantage of then being very easy to hollow out to put lead nose weight into. But I'd like to hear more about your method. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Very interesting. I need to scratchbuild a nose for a B-26 bomber and have been thinking of doing something along these lines. Tell us about that "house builders foam." I was thinking to use green styrofoam from a crafts store meant to stick flowers in, shape it a little undersized, and coat it with J-B Weld. This would have the added advantage of then being very easy to hollow out to put lead nose weight into. But I'd like to hear more about your method. 

Richards..PM me your email address and I'll send some photos of the markings on the foam and the nose of the 1936 Curtiss Aerocar I am building right now. I have a friend who is a building contractor that gave me some scrap pieces. You will find the stuff at any big home improvement store like Menards or Lowe's but usually is 4' x 8' sheets and therefore more than a little awkward to handle and would equal three lifetimes supplies of the stuff.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, misterNNL said:

Richards..PM me your email address and I'll send some photos of the markings on the foam and the nose of the 1936 Curtiss Aerocar I am building right now. I have a friend who is a building contractor that gave me some scrap pieces. You will find the stuff at any big home improvement store like Menard's or Lowe's but usually is 4' x 8' sheets and therefore more than a little awkward to handle and would equal three lifetimes supplies of the stuff. At the builders supply stores you will find this foam in the section where wall and foundation insulation materials are stocked. I use super glue to bond the foam to styrene surfaces which seems to be a very good bond.

Jim, I have used rattle can primer to paint the surface with no problems.I don't use an airbrush so have no info about the use of HOK paints.

Edited by misterNNL
added details

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, misterNNL said:

I really like the fact that is not solvent based. Clean up is simple and quick with a damp cloth instead of using lacquer thinner. . . . It dries quickly and sands to  a smooth finish.

Well, it is solvent based, but the solvent is H2O (water). :D  Because the solvent (water) evaporates from it during the drying/hardening process, I would expect shrinkage. The 2-part putties which harden by a chemical reaction between the 2-parts are not solvent based and are non-shrinking.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, peteski said:

Well, it is solvent based, but the solvent is H2O (water). :D  Because the solvent (water) evaporates from it during the drying/hardening process, I would expect shrinkage. The 2-part putties which harden by a chemical reaction between the 2-parts are not solvent based and are non-shrinking.

 

7 hours ago, peteski said:

Well, it is solvent based, but the solvent is H2O (water). :D  Because the solvent (water) evaporates from it during the drying/hardening process, I would expect shrinkage. The 2-part putties which harden by a chemical reaction between the 2-parts are not solvent based and are non-shrinking.

 

8 hours ago, peteski said:

Well, it is solvent based, but the solvent is H2O (water). :D  Because the solvent (water) evaporates from it during the drying/hardening process, I would expect shrinkage. The 2-part putties which harden by a chemical reaction between the 2-parts are not solvent based and are non-shrinking.

 

8 hours ago, peteski said:

Well, it is solvent based, but the solvent is H2O (water). :D  Because the solvent (water) evaporates from it during the drying/hardening process, I would expect shrinkage. The 2-part putties which harden by a chemical reaction between the 2-parts are not solvent based and are non-shrinking.

 

 

8 hours ago, peteski said:

Well, it is solvent based, but the solvent is H2O (water). :D  Because the solvent (water) evaporates from it during the drying/hardening process, I would expect shrinkage. The 2-part putties which harden by a chemical reaction between the 2-parts are not solvent based and are non-shrinking.

I guess you got me there. I would like to comment further but it's time for me pour myself a nice cool glass of "solvent" and take me morning pills.:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎12‎/‎10‎/‎2017 at 4:18 PM, misterNNL said:

Jim, I have used rattle can primer to paint the surface with no problems.I don't use an airbrush so have no info about the use of HOK paints.

I just took a look at a piece of this foam I have stored in my garage due to it's size. It is marked "Scoreboard Brand" styrofoam. It is light blue in color,2" thick and I have used it for bases for 2 of my larger dioramas due to how light and strong the material is.I make cuts in it with a very sharp fish filleting knife.I have also used a water based interior wall board patching material made by DAP called "Dry Dex". It dries and sands beautifully to fill in any imperfections. I hope this helps.

Edited by misterNNL
detail error

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/10/2017 at 11:39 AM, Snake45 said:

Very interesting. I need to scratchbuild a nose for a B-26 bomber and have been thinking of doing something along these lines. Tell us about that "house builders foam." I was thinking to use green styrofoam from a crafts store meant to stick flowers in, shape it a little undersized, and coat it with J-B Weld. This would have the added advantage of then being very easy to hollow out to put lead nose weight into. But I'd like to hear more about your method. 

I often use urethane foam and epoxy mixed with microballoon to form small components than can be hollowed out. I'd be happy to send you some foam and some micro. Cheap floral foam will also work if you use epoxy.

DSCN6650.jpg

DSCN7155.jpg

DSCN7278.jpg

Edited by Ace-Garageguy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I opened the new style tubes yesterday and the screw-on tapered applicator tip makes it extra easy to apply just the needed amount of putty where needed,wet your finger with a little solvent(water)and smooth to nearly the finished contour. Overall IMOH highly recommended.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for bringing this back up. As the OP I had totally forgotten about it. 

I need to get some and try it. 

Russ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I opened the new style tubes yesterday and the screw-on tapered applicator tip makes it extra easy to apply just the needed amount of putty where needed,wet your finger with a little solvent(water)and smooth to nearly the finished contour. Overall IMOH highly recommended.

Just a small update on cleaning up after using this product. We are on a short 3 day get away so I take along my portable work bench which amounts to a large aluminum briefcase filled with a current project and the necessary tools and supplies to work on it. This project is a scratch built  1/25 th scale twenty four foot 1936 Aerocar travel trailer. This has a lot of compound curves thus requiring Lots of filling and sanding. Perfect Putty fills in the gritty surfaces of the sanding sticks I use petty quickly so I need to clean out that sanding stick often.Guess what.......being water soluble it washes off under a faucet in seconds. Another positive thing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 A Christmas eve "Deluxe" product update. The supplier I bought the putty from sent me an advertising email with other items they offer similar to the putty. Evidently Deluxe offers a water based epoxy sealer for wood and foam. It is called foam armour wood and foam protective coating.It Deluxe part number is DLM- DB50. Evidently it can be sanded and painted when dry. I thought those reading this column just might be interested in knowing about this......and so Merry Christmas to all !!

Edited by misterNNL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a tip on Perfect Plastic Putty that I just read in A Fine Scale-Modeling Magazine.  If the PPP seems to be thickening or drying up in the tube, use an eye-dropper and put 3 or 4 drops of tap water straight into the tube.  Then close the cap, shake it up and let it sit for a while.  Since PPP is water-based, the water will un-thicken it.

Haven't tried this yet myself, but I plan to. I have a 2-year-old tube of PPP that appears to be getting a little thick, though it's still useable.  I just used it a couple of days ago to fill some small gaps and it worked fine.

I sure like PPP a lot better than Squadron or Testors solvent-based putties.  No smell and being water-based, it doesn't attack plastic.  It stays where you put it and can be easily smoothed with a damp Q-Tip (or even a damp finger). When filling bigger gaps, I use Tamiya White or Gray putty.  The Tamiya seems to dry a lot quicker than the others and, again, just behaves itself better.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now