BlackDragon Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Thanks for the recent replies! I am looking forward to your finished model. If you think any further information supplementing my post of 3 August would be useful please let me know. Juergen, i did not notice your post of August 3rd, thank you very much, it's all clear now, i tried this on the two holders of the exhaust stack and now i know what i did wrong. I did wrap the wire only one time. My model is not as good as yours, because i did not work enough on the resin-surface. But it's okay for me, that was the first full resin kit that i build up. The next will get better (hopefully ). Greetings, Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ack! Ack-ack! Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Impressive rig!!! I have never had much luck with resin, after seeing this, I am going to try again. Great job!!! Juergen, i did not notice your post of August 3rd, thank you very much, it's all clear now, i tried this on the two holders of the exhaust stack and now i know what i did wrong. I did wrap the wire only one time. My model is not as good as yours, because i did not work enough on the resin-surface. But it's okay for me, that was the first full resin kit that i build up. The next will get better (hopefully ). Greetings, Michael Jürgen, would you consider a tutorial about your way of preparing resin surfaces? Your resin cabs look as smooth as glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DumpyDan Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Holy s&#t that is sooooooo nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastheniker Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 Thanks for the latest comments! Jürgen, would you consider a tutorial about your way of preparing resin surfaces? Your resin cabs look as smooth as glass. My personal recipe is rather simple: Step 1: on any surface filling and sanding, filling and sanding, filling and sanding, ... Step 2: finally I drybrush critical areas with Revell or Humbrol chrome silver. This thin layer reveals all remaining surface flaws and can be removed with turpentine easily without attacking the surface. If I spot any flaws back to step 1! Step 3: Unless the colour of the plastic requires a prime coat I never use primer on styrene or ABS in order to keep my paintwork as thin as possible. I use primer on resin when I don't trust my surface preparation. I always use primer on metal surfaces for sufficient paint adhesion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ack! Ack-ack! Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 I conjectured some sophisticated fillers, primers or paints. I have just tried the silver drybrush on a filled and sanded seam. Indeed imperfections became visible where before the surface seemed to be perfect. Very simple but effective. Thanks for sharing this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckyr Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Excellent. What bits do you use for the interior switches? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastheniker Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 (edited) Thanks for the replies! Excellent. What bits do you use for the interior switches?Making dashboard switches is simple, fast and inexpensive. pull-switches (as on the W-71 dashboard): Use easily available metal head pins with standard shaft diameters (mostly 0.6 to 0.7mm). Insert a pin into a rotary tool. Insert a cutting wheel (no matter if emery or diamond) into a second rotary tool. When both are running reduce the diameter of the pin head to a cylindical shape. Then cut off the pointed end of the pin to get a handy length. As described above when making chrome bezels use bright wire to make rings with an inside diameter slightly bigger than the shaft diameter of the pin. Such a ring simulates the visible nut that fixes the 1:1 switch onto the dashboard. Slip a ring onto the finished pin, drill a hole into the dasboard, insert the unit and fix it with super glue. toggle switches (as on the F dashboard): Use a piece of bright wire of an appropriate diameter (for 1/25 usually 0.4mm should work). With a plier with smooth jaws press one end flat. Cut both ends to the desired length. As described above when making chrome bezels use bright wire to make rings with an inside diameter slightly bigger than the diameter of the piece of wire. Slip a ring onto the finished piece of wire, drill a hole into the dasboard, insert the unit and fix it with super glue. Bend the rocker switch up or down. Edited May 12, 2016 by Plastheniker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ack! Ack-ack! Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 Thanks for sharing another trick. I think it would be great if you compile all your techniques applied on your resin cabs in one comprehensive tutorial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenfalk Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 I just fell in love. In a truck! You can't tell anyone ... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grodudulle77 Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 Outstanding work, the finishes are perfect !!!??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leafsprings Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 Thanks for bringing this one back up stenfalk, never seen it the first time around. This combo is a perfect match, tractor and trailer are super impressive and compliment each other! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastheniker Posted August 20, 2020 Author Share Posted August 20, 2020 Thanks for the latest replies, nice to see that there is still some interest in my older topics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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