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cleaning glue off the windows


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Has anyone found a way to clean super glue off there windows? I have a messy windshield after it slipped through the glue during installation, can I clean it off or do i just love with it?

You've actually gotten CA on the windows - not just a fog from using CA near it? If so, your only recourse is to start sanding it off. Once you've gotten below the CA, start using progressively finer grits until you can polish the plastic with Novus #2 or Tamiya Polishing Compound (start with coarse - then fine - then finish). At this point, you should have no scratches and the surface should be clear. If your problem is fog, use a Q-Tip dipped in alcohol (learned this from Snake). It should clean right off.

Edited by fseva
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It MIGHT be possible to scrape superglue off the styrene with a fingernail or a "chisel" made from plastic or wood (no metal--it'll scratch the plastic). This sometimes works, but only sometimes. If not, you'll have to sand and polish. But don't sweat it, it's not an impossible job, and kinda fun once you learn how.

Be glad it's not tube glue. That stuff penetrates into the clear styrene and frosts it internally, permanently.

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Try soaking in water overnight. water will eventually soften and weaken it. Do not use suprglue for windows, you are asking for trouble. Try a good PVA glue like Formula 560 Canopy Glue or Microscale Krystal Klear. It can be rubbed right off or wiped off with water on a Q-Tip. It does take awhile to setup but the safety factor is worth it. It holds very well when dry.

Edited by 935k3
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Not sure the difference between tube glue and what I used, it might be good to say exactly what i was using. I think it's more fog then actual glue, the glue I'm using is cheap dollar store style super glue if that makes a difference. 

What snake meant by "tube glue" is the old fashioned "plastic cement" used by every modeler years ago.

It worked by actually melting the plastic together.

Not sure how many of us still use it. Probably not many.

I'm with Dale.

I don't go any where near the glass or a painted body with super type glues anymore. Too much potential for disaster.

I use hobby glues designed for clear parts for glass & small parts to be glued to the body like mirrors, door handles, antennas, etc.

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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Yeah I can see your guys point about super glue. My last build (as this is only #2 some i was 10) I used Elmer's wore glue, it worked great for my lights but left me feeling unsure for the glass. I thought i could out smart the risk with super glue by song the glass into place and running a small bread around the outside of the glass, went well on the rear window other than fogging, blew up like grenade on the windshield. I'll post some pics soon of what happens after the clean up.

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I use several glue types when I build models and each one for different purposes.
I use Revell Contacta Professional cement type glue for most of the basic assemblys on the model, after 40 years of modeling and trial and error it's the best I have tried so far.
I use thin brush type liquid cement for some things, especially when to mate two surfaces such as glueing the engine block halves together and similar things, I use cement glue first and put the halves together, when dried I brush the liquid glue on top of the joint and it will melt the plastic and loosen up the cement some and after it has dried completely and after sanding the joints are invisible without any use of putty.
I use a couple different super glues thin and gel type and epoxi glue for details that aren't styrene plastic and for resin parts.
I use white glue type kristal klear or similar for windows.
And finally, I also use enamel clear coat to glue photo etched emblems and such on the body after it's painted.

I never use super glue for windows as I don't want to take the risk of fogging the clear parts up wich the super glue does, so I use Kristal Klear and sometimes a little epoxi for extra strength here and there to glue them in.

Edited by Force
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