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Hi all well I enjoyed the last build of this, so here is my second bite at it, going to do it slightly different I am going to do it in a dio of a workshop with the engine out on the workbench and the tank and panels in the spray booth having a respray.

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Hi all here is an update on this. My first of several problems I can forsee coming up The carb inlet openings are blanked off as they normally wouldn't normally be seen, as they are inside the airbox, os I've had to open them also since the cable are not connected I have to show the inner cables and the nipples on the ends of those, think I've opened a can of worms here, we will have to see what else crops up.

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Hi all as I said opened a whole bag of worms, of course with no tank or seat on the wiring loom would be visible, advice please does this look convincing ( obviously there would be loads more wires really but I don't have any thinner wire to hand and I don't want the loom to get too thick)
I realise I need to add the copper connectors to the end of the wires, and I realise the wires should be wrapped in black insulating tape, also the loom would not be tied with string, this I purely to check if its worth using this method.

 

 

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The airbox looks great. It's been more than 20 years since I had my 750F, so I don't remember a whole lot of specifics. The wiring loom seems a little heavy for the bike; even on my Goldwing with its miles of wire, there are very few cable runs, if any, larger in diameter than my thumb. That's maybe an inch to an inch and a quarter in diameter. Most of the cables are much smaller - less than a half inch.

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Model is looking good (especially the paint and weathering), but if you want my honest opinion, your wire harnesses are way out of scale spoiling the overall look of the model.  It is thicker than the bikes frame tubes. Details like that are what makes or breaks a model.

If you think about it, most wires in the harness of the 1:1 bike would not be usually larger than 1/8" (that is the overall thickness of the insulation of the wires). Many will be even thinner and few (like battery cables) would be thicker.

To correctly represent those wires in 1:6 you would need something that is about 0.021" diameter (0.125 / 6 = 0.021) or thinner. A 30 AWG wire-wrapping wire has overall thickens close to that.  This type of wire is usually available from electronic parts suppliers. If you have a Radio Shack store nearby, they should also have the wire-wrapping wire. For even thinner wire use some of the 1:24 scale ignition wire from Detail Master. It comes in 0.016" and 0.007" diameters.  Perfect to represent chassis wiring of a 1:6 scale bike.  This will dramatically improve the realism if your model.  As far as wrapping the harness, that will be tougher.  Some thin-wall heat-shrink tubing might fit the bill.  Wrapping regular electrical tape will look out of scale.

Edited by peteski
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Hi all here is an update on this one, thanks to a friend  he sent me some networking wires which are half the thickness of telephone wires, I am now happy with the wiring loom, I dipped the ends in clear bathroom sealant for the plastic insulation over the ends of the copper connectors also I used flattened soldering wire for the cable ties to the frame.

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Hi all here is the latest update on this kit, I had a couple of errors pointed out to me, one of them blindingly obvious the rear sprocket should be on the rear wheel so I've sorted that and of course the tank filler hole should be taped up to hide the bit you are supposed to attatch it to the bike with(not there on the real bike)


now I know the qverall size of the bike I am going to try and build one of those bike ramps you see in workshops nowadays.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi here is a small update on this

obviously these exhaust flanges would not have the lge locating flange on the back they would be a sliding fit over the down pipes and would pull the downpipes up by the flange on the downpipe, so they needed drilling out.

Made a rack for the exhausts

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Hi all on the last leg with this one, the bike itself is nearly finished, I am attempting to scratch a compressor, which of course would then involve trying to scratch a 1/6 spraygun, still trying to make convincing socket set(you may notice I've made the socket wrench) definitley on the last leg though (may have to make some shelving for the stuff that's laying around on the floor, it looks a very messy workshop which would fail any health and hygiene inspection.






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