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AMT Mustang-GT Funny Car Update 02/27/16 Livery Restored


Speedfreak

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LOLOLOL, I think it might be too. Now, if I can just get those braces on the body where the rear pan will mount. I had them in but wanted to tweek it more. It's difficult to get that thing lined up even with the braces.  I think the problem is that piece that fits up under the truck tab that comes down. If you get that lined up then the panel doesn't fit right along the edges with the lower rear quarter panel, so , I'm just going to line up the corners/edges of the rear pan with the body, and ignore that tab, may evewn cut it off (?), we'll see.  Thanks for the compliments. 

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Yes, on the bumpers, I used Tamiya Silver Leaf. They were Tamiya Bare Metal, but , it looked to much like a plastic part 1:1. I painted the starter gloss black. You were right it wasn't that big a deal, just me wanting to see this thing come to form. I never really thought out this build prior to starting it, I was just trying to put down a good paint job. I end up getting the best paint job I've ever done, :lol:

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.one question, Gene....noticed that the one drain plug was removed from the oil pan....I have never been aware of an engine fit issue here,,,but I guess that's not the case....fill us in here, please. I know the awb falcon and awb nova I have built were both ok in that department....the Ace....:o

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Okay Ace, this engine is from the AMT '69 Ford Galaxie kit, with the blue car on the box. It's the same engine but has a little better/different details. So, the main drain plug sat right in the middle of the cross cross member where it mounts. In the case of this specific model, I broke one side off that hole/square in the cross member (where the drain plug would fit) when I was doing initial prep six months ago., so I had to fill that in with epoxy and add a brace to one side so the front end piece would hold, (it also uses that hole/square) which made it flat on top and difficult to balance the engine, so I cut it off, no one sees that anyway. I hope that makes sense. :huh: Thanks for asking the question. 

Here's a couple of pics of the engine progress. The problem here is that I cut the tabs off the bottom of the ' Intake Horns ' thinking it would make it easier for mounting, yes that's right. So now, because CA melts the Alclad I've got to mix a batch of epoxy for each horn! Wear plastic gloves and all that, Yes! Oh what fun! I've got three of them on! The coil and the oil filter are from the Revell parts pack 427 FE engine.

 

 

 

 

intakehorns.jpg

frontpan.jpg

intake2.jpg

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Ace, you have any tips/advice for installing the engine? The first attempt was thwarted by the headers being too wide to fit in the designated area. I have since relocated and pinned the headers, also one of the cowl braces is off as well as one of the trailing links, so , hopefully things go smoother this time.

Even with things as described above the drivers side headers still hit the drivers side trailing links, resulting in the engine not sitting upright, or , straight, so,....... there's no way I'm messing with the headers again. I'll have to try and figure out a way to widen the location of the trailing links.   

Edited by Speedfreak
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ok, first off I presently do not have the 69 galaxie kit at this time, even though over the years some have come and gone.......however if memory serves, I recall that particular SOHC  engine being a bit bulkier than the engine supplied in the stang you are building. the actual dimensions and measurements of AMT engines, even the same type of engine,,,,,vary greatly. if general fit is an issue here, and I see that it is, you may have to alter everything from engine mounts, suspension components, and sadly, maybe the headers as well. I was not aware of an engine swap right off the bat in your build...wish I had...because it usually changes everything, length of tranny, oil pan , exhaust , etc, etc........the other main concern I have here is,,,the injector tubes...that is to say, does the width across tube to tube, and the length of 4 adjacent on both sides a proper fit for the hood opening,,, of your fresh painted hood.....without having BOTH kits in front of me, and just having the stang, I will have to get you to walk me thru these concerns, so we may figure them all out....get back to me when possible, I know we can make all of this work.....the ACE....;)

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Oh god, maybe I'll just start that Shelby GT-350R kit :lol: I'm not sure this 'Super Boss' Mustang and I were ever meant to be mates. As far as engine dimensions go everything seems to line up okay for the tranny etc,. I think part of the problem is that fact that the heads weren't even with the ends of the front cover, (they were significantly lower) , so I had to do some things (I raised the heads with thin stock) to get that surface even so the valve covers would mount. Anyhoo, in that process the angle on one of the heads is off slightly, thanks AMT. And, this is the first time I've built this kit so I have no historical reference here. I think AMT forgot to put one sticker on the box for this kit, it would read " Instant Glue Bomb!

 

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Not any criticism but an FYI's.... the valve covers are upside down and on the wrong sides. The plug holes should be at the top and the square end always goes in front (as you have them)

Also, the distributor is in the coolant hose location. The relief cutout in the timing cover is for distributor clearance.

. "I think part of the problem is that fact that the heads weren't even with the ends of the front cover, (they were significantly lower)"  I have had that issue and filed the top of the timing cover to match the head. I may try your way on the next one.

Looking great. I am working on the Pontiac and did a lot of trial fitting and mods to get it right. Old kit, so I am not complaining about it tho.  

download (50).jpg

Edited by Sledsel
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Gene, I just saw this for the first time and I'm loving the quality of your build.  I too have been caught out before where you paint a body and then realise there was work you should have done before hand..

Soooooooo, if the exhaust ports are still bothering you (on the one hand, they'.re at the back, on the other hand, it will annoy you whenever you look at the back!)  what about using some thin aluminium tape or printers aluminium to make two small oval blanking plates and stick them over the ports.  Would look like the guy working on the factory steel shell just needed a quick fix, like so many racecars had.  Just a thought.

 

Cheers

Alan

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Speed freak, this is a very nice build.

I think sometimes people tend forget that these AMT early funny cars were done in haste. They took an annual kit body, modified the rear wheel openings and dropped it on a one size fits all chassis and plain interior bucket. They require some effort to make them as detailed as today's kits.

I suppose it is possible to cut up a stock 66 Mustang interior to match some of the vintage Mustang funnies. maybe it matters whether you are modeling an all glass body or steel glass combo?

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Wow, thanks for the encouragement you guys. 

Bob, thanks. There are plenty of weird things about the way this car fits together, that make sense with what you say. I think I've got the tub issues solved at least to the point that I put on the body and get things lined up moderately well, I'll find out in a few days!

Alan, thanks, glad you're liking it. Ha, ha, on the paint thing! I'm always looking for the easy way out, and , it never works! I had another of these kit, so , I just used the other rear panel and filled it in, not the greatest job but now I know something new. I used to hate the very idea of using putty. I had thought of the plate idea too.

Ace, I got those tabs in for the rear valence, (redid both the front and rear) , it looks like it's going to work. Then it will be time to polish the body. 

Here's the most recent progress shots:

Here's the panels and the engine:

 

 

  

mega2.jpg

frontpanel01.jpg

panels01.jpg

megaengine.jpg

IMG_1130.JPG

IMG_1124.JPG

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