tim boyd Posted August 22, 2015 Author Share Posted August 22, 2015 (edited) Tim, you're now in the running for Freudian Typo of the Week! Snake...just fixed that! I have a problem here at Boyd headquarters. A few days ago, i did something on this computer that makes the print on this forum incredibly small. I have an extremely hard time reading the posts, and writing new ones. Usually spell catcher tells me I made a mistake, but "regards" and "retards" are both legal spellings. Oh well....and if anyone knows how I can reset my Desktop so that the regular size font returns, I;d sure appreciate knowing how. TIM Edited August 22, 2015 by tim boyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 I'm looking for one to measure. We have a bunch of flatheads, first-gen Olds OHV V8s, a '50s Studebaker V8, and several smallblock Chebbys...and an LS or two. No nailhead in stock at the moment, but I'll find one and photograph and measure it, with the measuring tape laid out in the photos. It's entirely possible, of course, that the NEW engine is right and the older engines are wrong...but having looked at so many nailheads, and having collected every OLD Revell nailhead that I could snag off of Ebay since 2005 (some from as far away as Sweden) because they're so good, I kinda doubt it. But I COULD be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 (edited) so I am not sure measurements are necessary...here are some photos of the real thing: and here is a photo from the review: looks a little off in the way Bill mentions, but only a little. I don't think I would be losing too much sleep over it, on the other hand it would be nice to have it right jb Edited August 22, 2015 by jbwelda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 tim: upper right corner, Page dropdown, text size will probably do itjb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 The decal sheet in that kit looks like "trash" to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 I like that decal sheet and those weathered seats and the rust and corrosion. very kool, whether its appropriate for any given build is another matter but I will probably use all the rust stuff on one build or another. I actually think it shows some thinking outside the box for Revell, and I can appreciate that.jb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Lacy Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 so I am not sure measurements are necessary...here are some photos of the real thing: and here is a photo from the review: looks a little off in the way Bill mentions, but only a little. I don't think I would be losing too much sleep over it, on the other hand it would be nice to have it right jb Thanks for putting up those real Nailhead pics, JB. Comparing the two it looks really close to me. Way to close to make a fuss over and definitely way too close to condemn the engine to the trader classifieds. Like Bill, I build hot rods for a living too and know all too well that sometimes being a perfectionist can be a curse. I don't mean this with any disrespect, but I think the port-spacing argument is getting pretty nit-picky. I mean, the engine doesn't look like anything other than a vintage Buick. Although, I'm not intimately familiar with Buick engines so maybe it's easier for me to not see the issue? Now, the port spacing on the "Chrysler" Hemi engine in the Revell '32 5-Window? Yeah, that's obviously wonky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveM Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Looking at the pics, the spacing between the outer ports is pretty close to the others, but the middle part of the head seems to be extended a bit. The whole head is a mm or two longer, causing the too large gap between the two pairs of ports. That might be tougher to fix. I was hoping that we could just tweak the headers a bit to correct the gap and cover the slight tweak with the flanges, kind of like a catcher "Framing" a ball so that the umpire calls it a strike. Luckily, I didn't put much emphasis on the nailhead when I bought the kit. I might take a very fine razor saw and make a pair of cuts in the heads. Then I can glue the pieces back together, just like a chop. I think just removing the kerfs would be enough to tighten the spacing back up. Since many of these engines will be getting jammed into things Revell never intended for them, most of my headers will be scratchbuilt anyways. Hopefully a couple of very fine cuts won't end up messing with the head to block fit too much. Right now, I am trying to locate a single carb manifold that will fit this motor, so I can use a Cadillac air cleaner on it. That will fit the build I have in my head to a "T". Is it just me, or do the patina decals have blue in the print? If so, then they will only work on one color of paint? It might just be my monitor. They seem to have a blue section in the middle of the rusty bits. I think I would have more fun doing my own weathering.I am going to take a shot with the kit body on one of my builds, just to do a "Mostly out of the box" build. I was most eager to try the '32 rails and the highboy setup, but I figure that one will benefit the most from a properly proportioned body. The bigger wheel cutouts would most likely be done in real life on a "Z"ed frame, lowboy setup. I am thinking of just using the nailhead on the "A" frame with some Modelhaus steel wheels with the chrome spider, and a '53 Caddy air cleaner. (If I can dig out an appropriate manifold) I would keep things clean and simple with minimal chrome and gingerbread. I was originally thinking of gloss black paint, but I might go with a very dark blue or a maroon instead. I am even thinking of doing a painted grille shell, or swapping in a chopped '32 shell to carry the paint color further along the car. (Warning to anybody who has never followed one of my builds before, These plans will change a few times as the model comes together. I am constantly trying different parts as I go, tweaking the combination until I get it the way I want it.)I hope to get started on the build this weekend. I cant get much building in, as I have a full time caretaking situation, but I plan to get started on the plastic bits. I probably won't be able to paint anything until I get some respite. I really want to have some fun with this build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted August 22, 2015 Author Share Posted August 22, 2015 I am going to take a shot with the kit body on one of my builds, just to do a "Mostly out of the box" build. I was most eager to try the '32 rails and the highboy setup, but I figure that one will benefit the most from a properly proportioned body. The bigger wheel cutouts would most likely be done in real life on a "Z"ed frame, lowboy setup. I am thinking of just using the nailhead on the "A" frame with some Modelhaus steel wheels with the chrome spider, and a '53 Caddy air cleaner. (If I can dig out an appropriate manifold) I would keep things clean and simple with minimal chrome and gingerbread. I was originally thinking of gloss black paint, but I might go with a very dark blue or a maroon instead. I am even thinking of doing a painted grille shell, or swapping in a chopped '32 shell to carry the paint color further along the car. (Warning to anybody who has never followed one of my builds before, These plans will change a few times as the model comes together. I am constantly trying different parts as I go, tweaking the combination until I get it the way I want it.)I hope to get started on the build this weekend. I cant get much building in, as I have a full time caretaking situation, but I plan to get started on the plastic bits. I probably won't be able to paint anything until I get some respite. I really want to have some fun with this build. Dave...your plans sound cool....and I hear ya regarding changing of the build plans. I started mine yesterday, the body and frame are painted (although it may need another coat or two as the paint shrinked a bit), and I've got the engine block assembled and just painted that about15 minutes ago (after changing the planned color three times). I'm doing the Highboy straight out of the box, but also buliding the second Z'ed A chassis up as much as possible from the kit parts, before I jump into the parts box to finish it. Probably going to slap a '27 T Touring body on top (with the rear seat removed to make way foro the Z'ed portion of the frame, and a leather tonneau cover added over the former rear seat engine area). Anyway, hope you can share pictures as your build comes together (and that goes for anyone else reading this thread who is planning to start a build project. Cheers...TIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted August 22, 2015 Author Share Posted August 22, 2015 tim: upper right corner, Page dropdown, text size will probably do itjb Thanks JB....if I can find the button I'll definitely do this. TIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 (edited) I really should say that a lot of the parts in the kit look gorgeous. The two frames, wheels, brake parts, tires, and suspension are worth the cost of the kit even if it didn't have a body or engine, in my opinion. Think of what you'd have to pay to get all of that stuff in resin. There's a lot here to recommend the kit for anyone who likes old rods, and I hope my comments...still to be proven (or disproven) by measuring...won't keep anyone from buying Revell's latest offering.Remember guys...I'll be buying several myself. I'm just going to be very disappointed if measurement shows that something so easy to get right, wasn't.And if the rest of the engine measures out close to right (closer than 1 or 2 inches, anyway), a rework of the spacing of the center ports on the headers will probably correct the visual "first impression" enough for me to be able to live with. But it's still annoying to have to do a correction on a newly-tooled ANYTHING.I don't mean perfection. I mean "good enough" that's closer than 1 or 2 inches off.If there was a scale 2-inch gap between the center ports on a Revell smallblock Chebby engine, I imagine you'd hear some REAL howling. Edited August 22, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luc Janssens Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 (edited) Think this kit captures the essence of fun in model kit building, dreaming up a version while viewing all the optional parts, start building it and along the way buying some more copies, to (mind) build other versions....As I said in another tread, will pick up a copy or two, while visiting the Toledo show in October. Edited August 22, 2015 by Luc Janssens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luc Janssens Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 (edited) Also something I wish to add is, while another company makes it able for us modelers to re-live / Build the past, Revell realy slings the original concept / recipe, into the 21st century.Sure, they sometimes get flak for things they might have missed, or didn't get as accurate as some wanted, but they invest in all new exciting product, making this latest release IMHO the "Kats" Meow.Kudos to all involved in the development and Tim for the review. Edited August 22, 2015 by Luc Janssens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted August 22, 2015 Author Share Posted August 22, 2015 Quick update....I started building the kit yesterday afternoon/evening. Most of the components are painted now, the engine is awaiting final assembly, and the body will be rubbed and waxed tomorrow. I can't believe how fast it is coming together. I'll post a build thread later, maybe starting tomorrow, so those that are interested or planning to buy the kit can get a hint of what fun is to come... Cheers...TIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Haven't located a real nailhead to measure yet, so i went to the parts-store the try to get a set of exhaust gaskets. ALL the nailheads have the same exhaust-port spacing, but the '53-'56 ports are round, and the '57-'66 ports are square...including the 401. Anyway, the Felpro gaskets I could find are two-part affairs, split in the middle, so there's no way to get a dimension from them. The quest continues... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted August 22, 2015 Author Share Posted August 22, 2015 (edited) Edited August 22, 2015 by tim boyd mistake in quoting function (attributed to wrong poster) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted August 22, 2015 Author Share Posted August 22, 2015 (edited) Andy Lemble (1930FordPickup) said on page 1: Now if we could just get the tire and wheel sets in a parts pack. How close are these tires to the rears in the Black Widow? ******Guys...bit of an update here/correction of earlier info. Turns out the front tires in the '29A kit are the same as those in the Rat Roaster kit. The '29A rears still appear to be new tools. Neither of these match the reissued Black Widow tires (for one thing, they are the old school design with no hollow centers). However, the front tires in the Black Widow are near exact to the height & width of the '29A rears, and their tread pattern and sidewalls are near exact matches for the '29A front tires. This means if you adapt a set of wheels to fit both tire designs, you can have a matched set of tall'n'taller fronts and backs with the same side engraving and tread pattern. Beyond that, the Black Widow rears are much taller than the '29A rears, but the also have a larger wheel opening that you would expect from an old school design Monogram 1/24th scale kit. But, if you could find a set of rear wheels that fit the opening, these Black Widow rears would be great to work on the '29A Highboy, as they would put it on a rake, vs. the nearly flat front to rear ride height of '29A Highboy right out of the box. But what wheels would work? HAH! I've got an idea that might work...stay tuned. Thanks Andy for the question. TIM Edited August 22, 2015 by tim boyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted August 22, 2015 Author Share Posted August 22, 2015 Haven't located a real nailhead to measure yet, so i went to the parts-store the try to get a set of exhaust gaskets. ALL the nailheads have the same exhaust-port spacing, but the '53-'56 ports are round, and the '57-'66 ports are square...including the 401. Anyway, the Felpro gaskets I could find are two-part affairs, split in the middle, so there's no way to get a dimension from them. The quest continues... Bill...thanks for the update....TIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny99 Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 I have an idea I will try when the the coupe arrives(not much of a partsbox) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carrucha Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Thanks for the pictures and review Tim. Looks like Revell is going to lighten my wallet again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike 51 Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 (edited) Tim...since you seem to have an AMT 29 handy,would you mind checking if the AMT hood matchs the Revell body? How well? Thanks Mike... Edited August 22, 2015 by mike 51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 Tim, can't wait to see your WIP and finished build!I've never considered myself any kind of "29 Guy," but I'm getting kind of excited about this thing for some reason. Thinking more about your "Supersized Fad-T" A, I wonder how such a build would look with the Revell closed-cab A (truck) body and shortened bed? I'm liking the idea of such a thing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59 Buick Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 (edited) It's great to see this kit, thanks for the hard work to date Tim and your patience in getting it from drawing to production. Can't wait to see what the aftermarket companies produce to support this kit. Here you go, measurements off a 1959 364 c.i. Nailhead , these were taken free hand using a metal tape and phone camera. Happy to use a steel rule if you need more accurate measurement. spacing between 1st and 4th port centres 17 inches Edited August 23, 2015 by 59 Buick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59 Buick Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 (edited) Spacing between 2nd and 3rd ports 8 3/16 inches8 Edited August 23, 2015 by 59 Buick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59 Buick Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 (edited) Spacing between 1st and 2nd ports 4 1/2 inches Edited August 23, 2015 by 59 Buick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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