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Revell '29A HIGHBOY Hot Rod Roadster QuickBuild UPDATE #4 - Final Photos of Completed Kit and My Final Thoughts


tim boyd

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Nice work. This is a great kit. Looks like this goes togethef as nicely as the 32 kits do.

Bob...I'm just about done with the kit.  In my opinion, it actually goes together better than Revell's '32 kits.  Positive tabs and locaters about - fit is nearly perfect...pretty much a breeze to assemble once parts are prepped and painted.   Best part?  Can't wait to build another one, something else it shares with the '32 kits.  

Everyone - Thanks for the comments!   ....TIM 

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OK Team...here's a link to the final assembly photos and several shots of the finished model.  (Start with Photo #25 to pickup where we left off with the prior updates posted above.)  http://public.fotki.com/funman1712/tim-boyd-on-line-mo/tim-boyd-on-line-ho-6/page2.html

Also included is a photo of the leftover parts that could form the basis of a second model project (albeit with much assistance from your unbuilt kit stash/and-or your parts box....

.DSC 0681 

Thanks for looking, for your comments and feedback, and your interest.  And if based on what you've seen here, you like the kit, please don't forget to mention it to your friends and acquaintances at Revell.  And if appropriate, get your order in for own kit soon.  

Best Regards./..TIM 

 

 

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Chassis is finished...DSC 0659..

Tim, I don't know much about cars. So, please go easy on me if I sound like a simpleton... I'm curious to know why you would have nice chromed headers on a 1:1 build like this, when you were planning on diverting the exhaust to regular mufflers & tailpipes? 

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Thanks a ton for taking the time to build and photograph your roadster, Tim. This looks like a truly nice kit and I can't wait to grab a couple of them this weekend.

I also think that the colors you chose look a million times better on the car than the bright orange box top version. As I look at the finished pictures I think my only complaint is that the front could sit a touch lower because the car looks absolutely level. That 6-carb Buick looks superb, too. Whatever port spacing discrepancies there may be doesn't take away from how awesome it looks (at least not in my opinion.)

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Tim, I don't know much about cars. So, please go easy on me if I sound like a simpleton... I'm curious to know why you would have nice chromed headers on a 1:1 build like this, when you were planning on diverting the exhaust to regular mufflers & tailpipes? 

Frank...there is no such thing as a simpleton question....in this case, I'm not sure I have an answer that makes sense. Other than this is how many 1/1 scale traditional hot rod owners build their cars.  The headers could be easily stripped and painted (I'm thinking a matte black)  ....   TIM    

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Frank...there is no such thing as a simpleton question....in this case, I'm not sure I have an answer that makes sense. Other than this is how many 1/1 scale traditional hot rod owners build their cars.  The headers could be easily stripped and painted (I'm thinking a matte black)  ....   TIM    

Would it cut down on the noise up-front where the driver is openly exposed to it? That would be a practical use for having both, and especially being able to still display those beautiful headers...

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Thanks a ton for taking the time to build and photograph your roadster, Tim. This looks like a truly nice kit and I can't wait to grab a couple of them this weekend.

I also think that the colors you chose look a million times better on the car than the bright orange box top version. As I look at the finished pictures I think my only complaint is that the front could sit a touch lower because the car looks absolutely level. That 6-carb Buick looks superb, too. Whatever port spacing discrepancies there may be doesn't take away from how awesome it looks (at least not in my opinion.)

Dennis...thanks for your feedback. I had to do some really thinking on that color scheme; I really wanted to use real auto lacquer on this build, but the abbreviated build schedule just wouldn't allow that.  

I agree with you on the rake/stance of the model.  The finished model actually shows just the slightest forward rake. I think I may slightly raise the rear end on my next build....maybe by using a larger OD rear tire so no suspension changes would be needed.  

Best regards.... TIM  

 

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Tim, I don't know much about cars. So, please go easy on me if I sound like a simpleton... I'm curious to know why you would have nice chromed headers on a 1:1 build like this, when you were planning on diverting the exhaust to regular mufflers & tailpipes? 

The exhaust system (mufflers & tailpipes) would only be used when the caps are removed from the elds of the headers. Think of them as manual exhaust cut outs. Cap the headers, cops leave you alone. Take them off when it's time to make noise.

Looking good Tim. nice work.

Edited by Jantrix
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The exhaust system (mufflers & tailpipes) would only be used when the caps are removed from the elds of the headers. Think of them as manual exhaust cut outs. Cap the headers, cops leave you alone. Take them off when it's time to make noise.

OK - that makes sense! Sounds like what I did with a 71 Duster and a set of air-shocks! Up when the law wasn't around - down when they were! B)

Edited by fseva
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Tim, 

One more question. Did you use the white wall decals or are they painted?

Dennis...they are the kit's whitewall decals.  

I so wish the rear whitewalls were a tad smaller (leaving more blackwall exposed, and less likely to overlap the rear wheels), but with some effort, I think they came out fairly well.  

And they definitely add to the appearance of the kit.   TIM  

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Frank...there is no such thing as a simpleton question....in this case, I'm not sure I have an answer that makes sense. Other than this is how many 1/1 scale traditional hot rod owners build their cars.  The headers could be easily stripped and painted (I'm thinking a matte black)  ....   TIM    

I think the purpose was to be street legal but have the option to run just the headers without a lot of work. 

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Tim, I don't know much about cars. So, please go easy on me if I sound like a simpleton... I'm curious to know why you would have nice chromed headers on a 1:1 build like this, when you were planning on diverting the exhaust to regular mufflers & tailpipes? 

Several answers have been close on this, but here's the rest of the story.

This particular design of headers dates back to the "dry lakes" days of dual-purpose cars being built to drive on the street for transportation, and for racing to be able to uncap the megaphone-style header with only 2 or 3 easily-accessible bolts. Open headers usually make more power than having the exhaust running through restrictive mufflers.

In the beginning, it wasn't about noise or stylin' and profilin'...running open pipes is about making more power (but of course, law-enforcement and average citizens prefer vehicles to be nice and quiet). These early-style "lakes pipes" give the option of power or relative quiet. The term "lakes pipes" evolved over time to also mean side-pipes (running down the running-boards or rocker-panels of bigger cars) that usually had caps on the rearmost ends too. 

And Tim,

The model looks great. An out-of-the-box build was just exactly what we needed to see here.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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Several answers have been close on this, but here's the rest of the story.

This particular design of headers dates back to the "dry lakes" days of dual-purpose cars being built to drive on the street for transportation, and for racing to be able to uncap the megaphone-style header with only 2 or 3 easily-accessible bolts. Open headers usually make more power than having the exhaust running through restrictive mufflers.

In the beginning, it wasn't about noise or stylin' and profilin'...running open pipes is about making more power (but of course, law-enforcement and average citizens prefer vehicles to be nice and quiet). These early-style "lakes pipes" give the option of power or relative quiet. The term "lakes pipes" evolved over time to also mean side-pipes (running down the running-boards or rocker-panels of bigger cars) that usually had caps on the rearmost ends too. 

I think I misunderstood Frank's original question to center on why the headers were chrome vs. the non-chrome on the remaining exhaust pipes and mufflers.  Several of you saw past that and got to Frank's real question, with Bill's response above being the most in-depth.  Thanks all..TB

Edited by tim boyd
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For those that can never get enough (err...that would be me), I've just posted nine new photos of the completed model, as well as my final verdict on the kit. at this link (start at photo #30):  http://public.fotki.com/funman1712/tim-boyd-on-line-mo/tim-boyd-on-line-ho-6/page2.html

Thanks everyone for following along, sharing your thoughts and studied comments, and so forth.  I hope that those of you who buy and build this kit enjoy it as much as I have.   Best Regards...TIM

DSC 0698

Edited by tim boyd
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First of all, a pure OOB build is exactly what every new release requires, especially important all-new kits like this one. Reporting succinctly and clearly on the details and approach taken by the kit designers, as you have done in the linked Fotki pages you've included, gives us a clear view of the kit really offers. For this a huge Thanx!!!, Tim.

Secondly, your review shows what a crisply detailed and modern kit this is. Like you there are aspects of the kit that are not to my liking, including the contemporary rear suspension and the stance issues you mention in your review, but I can't think of a single model car kit I've ever built that made me want to build it exactly as the manufacturer supplied it. Frankly these "shortcomings", unless they place making "my" version completely out of reach, have never dissuaded me purchasing a well engineered and conceived kit of a subject I wanted to model. To a traditional hot rod modeler like me this kit screams "buy me" and will join the venerable Revell Deuces among my bread and butter "stash kits".

As I followed through your review it occurred to me what a brilliant donor kit this is to build an "ideal" Deuce highboy by combining it with the original issue Revell kit for the body and main frame rails and the '29 for the chassis details, suspension, wheels, tires, front suspension mounts, headlamps and taillights (I love how thin they are).

Now for my aftermarket wishlist:

  • Two piece headlamps with chromed rims and painted buckets.
  • Leaf spring rear suspension conversion kit.
  • Deuce grill shell kit
  • Highboy full hood kit (for either the stock shell or the above mentioned Deuce shell).

I hope we can see an OOB review/build up of the channeled version soon.

Edited by Bernard Kron
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Bernard, I agree, out of box is just to see how good the kit really is, but for me, all the parts are for kit bashing and there looks to be some great kit bashing parts in this one, as I've already ordered 2 just for that purpose!  That Stacey David Rat Roaster kit was another, 2 kits just for parts, especially those wheels and tires! Too bad the guitar was stupid looking, I wanted a Gibson to go with the Fender from the Magnum kit. Kit bashing though is probably what MOST of us do, and the newest Revell kit certainly looks like a winner!

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Looks great, Tim.  Great job on the build!  I am almost afraid to post my work after seeing this.  I will get back to mine tonight.  I think I will go for a box stock one, but with the "A" chassis instead.  That way we can check out both major versions of the kit.  (I am still going to test fit some  other motors.)  I have the camera working again, and I hope I can bust loose for some time at the bench this weekend.  I do see the slight funkiness in the exhaust, but everything else looks spot on.  

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