Ognibs other deuce

[10thumbs]

Ray, just to give an idea, here a cold light lamp for a small milling machine.  The small movable arm has a cold light lamp, this allows excellent and bright light for viewing the small areas, no shadows whatsoever, you can see everything in front of you, and it doesn't get hot.

This is the only way to go, the best possibility for lighting up small areas that I know of.  It lights things up in a small area and leaves nothing unseen.  Sorry I didn't show an example earlier.

Here another type, this one costs a whopping $20, can't beat it;

These are from German shops though, but simple and very effective.

Edited July 19, 2016 by 10thumbs

[Ognib]

That's what I've been thinking about.  Bought the wife a double flexable stem led for her keyboard music. Has a couple of AA bats which last quite a long time.  A magnetic base would be the thing...hang it off of the vertical column at any point.

[Ognib]

There, that's mo bettah...3rd time's a charm, as they say.

Now can finish the layout around the bolt heads...want a nice even edge bordering the outside.

[10thumbs]

Ray, is that the back plate?  The bolts sitting there certainly look like they have a uniform position.

Concerning the bolt size issue, and after reading bluncs and your input, I may even agree to the larger size bolt.  Also an alternative would be to give the bolts a different look, meaning a different degree of shine if you're leaving the aluminum as is.  My thoughts are that with different metals, and even the same metals in one immediate area, a different finish can achieve the depth that styrene can never reach.  Like when the car is finished, and you peek underneath for a look to see if the differential is leaking oil, maybe a different finish on the bolts as compared to the housing may make for an interesting view for the eye.

At any rate, I personally have to keep in my mind that this is not a 1:25 car, so I'll have to adjust more about commenting.  Hey, think big, right? 

[Ognib]

Hi Michael,

Yes, think big. 

That's the back plate.  Turning out much better this time...so far.  Your talking about lighting prompted me to get a small, bright led flashlight from my night stand.  That with the 2x flip downs allowed me to see well enough to get good placement for my drilling.

My original intent was to buy hardware with black oxide finish for visual contrast.  Couldn't find a supplier who had all the sizes I wanted in black.  Want to keep it consistent...so went with the stainless instead.

I'm thinking that as I handle the aluminum parts during the build they will take on a bit of a duller patina. This should allow the stainless to stand out with a bit more contrast.

[10thumbs]

Great idea with the flashlight, I have a couple of those small things lying and they work too!  Good stuff.

Also an idea about metal contrast.  Shiny brass, small washers for the bigger bolts?  Just letting some of the brass be visible.  A slight touch of clear (CA) and they won't tarnish over time.

 

[Ognib]

Yep, plus gaskets between the parts.

00-90...tiny little thing.

Slow going. Just kiss it with the bit & rotate on the next one & on & on.



Carefully rounding the corners around the bolt heads. I've got hours invested in this piece...make sure I get it right.

 

---

 

[10thumbs]

Gaskets are good.

Ray, how do you separate the piece from the block?

[Ognib]

 

Bought a slitting saw & arbor.  This one is 4 in dia & is 1/16 thick.  I rotate the table & feed it in a thou, or so at a time.  It gives me a smooth, polished, machined looking surface on the back of the parts where the cut was made.

This pic is from when I separated the first end hub from the stock.

[Ognib]

The first layout was for the drilling operation. Washed it off & reblued for laying out the next step.

[Ognib]

 

Fun stuff, makin chips. 

[Ognib]

Gettin there.

 

[Ognib]

Kind of a tricky piece to cut...objectively, I give it a 6.5 - 7 on execution.

Outer edge is not final shaped.
I want to match the end of the case to the shape of the end cap, so it just makes sense to get the cap installed & do all of the shaping cuts at one time.

I'm using 00-90 bolts on this piece & I've located a source for mini thread cutting taps.
Going to see if I can pull it off to actually bolt the end cap to the case.

[John Clutch]

Lookin great !

[10thumbs]

Good looking shoulder you cut in.  Wow, are you really going to try to cut threads into the metal block?  Fantastic.  

Why do you rate it so low (6.5 -7pts.) ?  Found any areas you can do better?

 

 

[Ognib]

Thanks, guys.

Michael, the taps are not expensive so figured I'd give it a try...just for grins.  If I pull it off it'll be a nice warm fuzzy moment for me. 

As far as my rating, I feel it could be done a little "tighter',..just little things... but it's not loose enough where I'm willing to spend another 3 days cutting another one.  This one is "take 3", as it is.

Edited July 27, 2016 by Ognib

[Twokidsnosleep]

It is all looking great to me

I am very envious of the path you are on, hoping I get there some day

I was wondering about the weight of these parts and if it will affect the build wrt strength needed for frame and tires etc 

[Ognib]

Hi Scott.

I've thought about the weight thing.

I'm using hi strength silver solder with a torch for good even heat & the frame, as it is, is quite strong & rigid.  By the time I add the cage, I don't see any problems with the amount of weight it will hold.

Tires...??...don't know...have to wait & see.  A friend is big into rc cars & there are some nice sturdy tires out there for them.  I'm going to cut my own wheels, so I can size them to work with what ever I choose.  Been looking at some that have what they call a chain link tread that are used for hard surface rc cars...corners etc.

This car is an eclectic blend of old school hot rod body styling setting on a current technology frame/cage & set up for corners...nascar road race type stuff..accelerate, brake, turn, shift, accelerate...etc.

Engine wise, I'm a big fan of the big merc cruiser marine engines of over 500 ci, where they can put them on the red line & leave them there for an hour or so at a time...

So, I'm thinking a new style performance tire with a funky tread pattern might be visually interesting here. I don't think the model will weigh more than some of his nitro rc's, so they should stand up ok under the weight.

 

Edited July 30, 2016 by Ognib

[Ognib]

This is one of Jay Leno's cars.

 

 

[Ognib]

I'm currently considering something along these lines.  Like to find them sized so the model can have big & littles to help the rake. Still have a while before I've just got to have them...keep looking.

Edited July 28, 2016 by Ognib

[Twokidsnosleep]

That looks like my son's LOSI truck framework, awesome!!

The plastic wheels snap in the centre hubs when you jump it down the stairs.....not that I did that four or five times

[Ognib]

My friend goes through a lot of tires on his cars.  Says the tires can be bought without the rims.

On real aluminum hot rod rims & up against another car like the coupe, they will take on an entirely different vibe.

Edited July 29, 2016 by Ognib

[Ognib]

Just outa curiosity...

[10thumbs]

Ray, a little more than styrene for sure.  Should be about 8 times heavier than styrene.  94 is hefty, even for a larger scale like yours, this is a region where it really feels like something that's been built.  I feel at this point your addiction has completely set in for sure, and that you've become hooked without a doubt.  No looking back now my friend, heavy models are just cool to lift, and completely different in appearance than styrene.

I enjoy seeing these developments, the parts look fantastic.  You're doing well.

[Ognib]

Ya, I'm hooked.

The model is cool & all but my biggest attraction to this is the challenge of learning to use the machine to it's fullest...seeing the pieces take shape & how well I can make them fit together.