Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Revell '29A CHANNELED Hot Rod Roadster Quick Build Update #3 - Chassis and Interior completion, and photos of completed model...


tim boyd

Recommended Posts

Later this evening or tomorrow, I'll be posting in-process photos of my box stock build of the channeled version of Revell's '29A Hot Rod Roadster.  

But I wanted to post the following info ASAP because I know that some of you are already building your own channeled version of the kit.  

Please grab a pen.go straight to to page 8 of the instruction sheet, and for step 1 at the top of the page, cross out part #13, and mark in part #62.  

Long story short, the same floorboard (part #62) is shared across both of the roadster versions.  Part #13 has a different tab/slot layout where it fits the side panels, it also has different seat location tabs.  It is for a future version of the tool that uses a different body and interior, just like the instrument panel on the same parts tree.  

I''ll send a note to the Revell team in the morning...but for now you are best served to mark the correction while you are thinking of it.  

Pictures later!  TIM 

Edited by tim boyd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The first seven pictures of my build of this version are now posted at this link.  http://public.fotki.com/funman1712/tim-boyd-on-line-mo/tim-boyd-on-line-mo-1/

Here's a look at the injected version of the Nailhead engine...DSC 0034.

Also...I am trying out the "fauxtina" decals from the kit, with somewhat mixed results.  DSC 0024  

Check the captions for each photo at the link for much more info....thanks.  TIM 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those decals (interior and exterior) sure look different on the car but...nope they don't work for me either.  

 

The 4speed pattern decal offered for the shifter nob was kinda "funny" tho....

Edited by mike 51
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The decals are a little funky but I think once the model is fully assembled they will look better. Love your color choices again, Tim! The injector set up looks killer, can't wait to see the engine finished with chrome/red valve covers.

Tamiya Racing White is one of my go-to colors. The best off-white there is, IMO. I vote you use it on the wheels since you did black wheels on the hiboy version. And paint the scallops and letters on the hubcaps red to carry out the same theme as the engine!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The decals are a little funky but I think once the model is fully assembled they will look better. Love your color choices again, Tim! The injector set up looks killer, can't wait to see the engine finished with chrome/red valve covers.

Tamiya Racing White is one of my go-to colors. The best off-white there is, IMO. I vote you use it on the wheels since you did black wheels on the hiboy version. And paint the scallops and letters on the hubcaps red to carry out the same theme as the engine!

Dennis....I was leaning that way on the wheels....so your vote may seal the deal!    TIM 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just wanted to clarify for anyone watching the video review above....the channeled version firewall fits fine once you use the #62 floorboard.   I just mocked up the entire channeled body/entire/floorboard/firewall fit, and everything works perfectly when you use the Roadster (#62) floorboard.  

Best Regards...TIM 

Edited by tim boyd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dennis....I was leaning that way on the wheels....so your vote may seal the deal!    TIM 

I noticed that with this channeled version you decided to cut the wheel wells away from the interior side panels to install separately. Any reason you chose to do this? Perhaps some builders insight for better results after having built the first one?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The nailhead looks great so far, and I'm excited that the presence of '30 parts in the box definitely indicates that we'll be getting the '30, sooner or later.

The patina decals.....remind me of the "fake wound" stickers one could find in vending machines in the 1990s :P  But I'm glad you're trying them out, so we can see what it all looks like.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I noticed that with this channeled version you decided to cut the wheel wells away from the interior side panels to install separately. Any reason you chose to do this? Perhaps some builders insight for better results after hMaving built the first one?

Dennis....the parts fit so well that I decided I could cut them apart and paint the rear wheel wells with the body, and not have to mask off the interior pieces for painting later.  Then later I painted the interior pieces the black color at the same time I painted the body the red color.  It turned out to be a time saver and I will do it that way with all future builds of this kit.  Then everything reassembled as original later on.  Thanks for asking....TIM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The nailhead looks great so far, and I'm excited that the presence of '30 parts in the box definitely indicates that we'll be getting the '30, sooner or later.

The patina decals.....remind me of the "fake wound" stickers one could find in vending machines in the 1990s :P  But I'm glad you're trying them out, so we can see what it all looks like.

Chris...you are exactly right on why I tried the fauxtina decals....most everyone who saw  them on the decal sheet dismissed them.  I wanted to try them (especially since it avoided having to do the paint job over, as explained in one of the photo captions).  I think the results are somewhat mixed.  They would probably look better over some real 3D rust (like Dr. Cranky does).

Using them on this version is 180 degrees opposed to the "shiny" finish of my Highboy version of the kit, which also make for an interesting "comparo" picture later on....

Cheers...

TIM 

Edited by tim boyd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Tim,

Could you show the stock manifolds up against the block, would be interesting to see if they look okay compared to the kits headers.

I wonder if you could "fudge" the kits headers by sectioning them through the middle and rejoining so that gap isn't so large? 

 

image.jpg

Edited by 59 Buick
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Tim,

Could you show the stock manifolds up against the block, would be interesting to see if they look okay compared to the kits headers.

I wonder if you could "fudge" the kits headers by sectioning them through the middle and rejoining so that gap isn't so large? 

 

image.jpg

If you section the dump pipe between the header outlet pipes the flanges will no longer be in plane (aligned) with one another so that won't work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Tim,

Could you show the stock manifolds up against the block, would be interesting to see if they look okay compared to the kits headers.

I wonder if you could "fudge" the kits headers by sectioning them through the middle and rejoining so that gap isn't so large? 

 

image.jpg

Martin...I do plan to build a future Nailhead V8 using the '29A engine except for the dual quad carbs/intake and exhaust manifolds from the AMT/Ertl '66 Riv kit.  I expect that everything will match up fine.  I'll post pictures when the time comes. 

Clearly we have established that the dimensions of the Revell header/exhaust ports do not match the 1/1 scale counterparts, but I just don't see the discrepancy as being one that is obvious in 1/25th scale.

I acknowledge that some of you do see the discrepancy.  For those that are bothered, I think your idea of sectioning through the middle of the header is the way to go, although due to the geometry you'll then need to slightly shorten the #3 and #4 header tubes as well  (UPDATE - I see JC (AFX) also mentioned the need to do this extra step).  Personally, I'm way to busy planning future kit bashing projects with this kit to attempt the header conversion, but hopefully someone here will do so.    

Best Regards...TIM 

PS - will be posting photos of the completed engine shortly.  TB

Edited by tim boyd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for this review, Tim! Very valuable info.

It looks like the "rust" decals might work better on a grey-primered body given the patches of pale grey in the artwork. Perhaps airbrushing some grey primer along the upper portion of the decal and fogging it back into the body might camouflage that edge of the carrier film.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

seems amazing to me that test builds supposedly were done (not to mention box art car) and no one noticed or called out this major error in the instructions. did no one look at the instructions, or more a matter of "aw no one will notice"? when instrux lead one so far off base as this my feeling is that it should have been caught in the pre-release phase and not made it to the finished kit.

jb

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Second update photos are now posted at this link. http://public.fotki.com/funman1712/tim-boyd-on-line-mo/tim-boyd-on-line-mo-1/  Updates start at photo #8.  

Here's a look at the finished Hilborn injected version of the Nailhead V8.  Several additional views of the engine, also, updates on the interior, and a clear look at the Z'ed Model A frame are part of the updates.  DSC 0052

Thanks for your continued interest and comments.   TIM 

(Please note I still have some cleanup todo - paint touchups...removing extranious glue strings, etc....TB ) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

seems amazing to me that test builds supposedly were done (not to mention box art car) and no one noticed or called out this major error in the instructions. did no one look at the instructions, or more a matter of "aw no one will notice"? when instrux lead one so far off base as this my feeling is that it should have been caught in the pre-release phase and not made it to the finished kit.

jb

 

JB - I know that multiple assemblies of the test shots were done, because I did one set myself.  At the stage I did mine (1st round test shots), I was working from an exploded parts view.   Instruction sheets are often the last thing completed (along with decals, just before the kit starts down the line).  

Revell would have to address how this error occured.  But overall I think the instructions are extremely well done, providing clear and easy to follow assemblies of some of the more complicated parts of the kit based on my prior experience.    Just my 2 cents...TIM 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...