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Has anyone used the Testors/Aztec paints?


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They're acrylics, and the pictures I've seen are intriguing, but I haven't purchased any yet. I'm hoping some of you have used the pearls, opaques or translucent paints and have pics as well as your experiences with the paint (good or bad) you could share.  

 

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Edited by Monty
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Why did you post this question in the "Under Glass" section? :blink:

There used to be a "rule'' that when we asked for pics of cars painted with certain shades/brands/whatever the post was supposed to go in Under Glass since it usually featured other people's completed models.  Didn't make much sense to me either, but I went along with it.  

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I bought some of the metallic red for brush painting A/N braided line fittings. I tried it through the airbrush and found out it's some of the nicest acrylic I ever sprayed. It goes on very nice. The pigment is in scale, Good stuff.

Do you have any tips on what pressure you sprayed at, tip size on the air brush etc? I have a bottle of the pearl white and a bottle of the pearl green but I have not used them yet. I am still doing body work on the car they are going on.

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Do you have any tips on what pressure you sprayed at, tip size on the air brush etc? I have a bottle of the pearl white and a bottle of the pearl green but I have not used them yet. I am still doing body work on the car they are going on.

I used my Iwata Revolution CR that has a .5 mm tip at about 35psi.

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I just posted this in the diecast section.  I tried this paint for the first time a few days ago and think it's the best acrylic ever. Went on smooth and covered well. I used  the Aztec airbrush with white nozzle and about 20 PSI.  Clear coated about an hour later. This is the Pearl Copper.

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I concur with Tom. These are absolutely beautiful Lots of pigment, covers well, beautiful colors. Very easy to spray. I used a Badger 200 at about 16 to 18 psi. The absolute best thing I've found is that if you have screw up, you can feather it out with wet or dry, and just respray that area. Just like a 1:1 it blends perfectly, no need to respray the entire body, or even an entire panel. It dries satin, so it needs clear. I've used the Aztec clear and its wonderful. I dries rock hard and polishes up great. Here's a couple pics:

This is the pearl red with Aztec clear. No wetsanding, just a good polish with "Ultimate Restore" a polish made for slot cars.

Latest Merc 004.JPG

And here's some messing around on my part. This is how it looks without clear. This paint goes on real smooth.

004.JPG

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Looks like you guys are getting some fantastic results.  I'd like to know a couple other things. 1) Does this paint require a primer, and if so, what did you use?

2) Draggon, do the metallics require a gold/silver/copper undercoat like a candy paint or are they fairly opaque?  

3) I'm curious about drying time and how soon I could mask this stuff for a two-tone paint job. 

 

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I don't have any pics handy, but I have used one of the opaque colors with good results. My model had already been primed with Krylon primer before I bought the paint, couldn't tell you how it works on bare plastic.

I also used the clear gloss over my color coat, and felt it might be a little too thick.  Future might be a better option for clear gloss over the Aztek paint.

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It seems to be fine without primer. The pearls and opaques require no basecoat...the red Merc above was shot over black primer. The one below is a combination of pearl copper, pearl gold, and opaque peach shot right over bare plastic. The peach ended up being a lot more opaque that I expected, and kinda ruined the look I was after. 

002.JPG

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I sprayed mine over a light coat of self etching primer on the diecast corvette. The spoon was primed with Dupli-color white primer. I taped one side off so if you look close one side clear coated the other is not.  I used cheap Krylon acrylic clear about two hours after spraying the color. 

I will be getting more of this paint.  

Glenn, Thanks for the tip on touch up.  Your paint jobs look awesome.

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