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'26 Ford rod, based on NEW Revell '29 bits: Sept 15, THIRD mockup


Ace-Garageguy

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The maroon one is the 2013 AMBR-winning, V8-60 /Ardun-powered, Brizio-built John Mumford car.

There's no track-nose in the current kit, but I'll be doing a one-off nose/hood for the Eddie Dye car. Assuming that works out well, I'll do a nose and hood for the Mumford car too. Revell makes a V8-60, so everything to build it exists other than V8-60 Ardun heads.

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Love this car. Bill are you aware that there are 2 completely different versions of Ardun heads in the Revell '50 Ford p/u ?

The first version had a very short production run i think because they were noticeably undersized and oddly shaped .I've never really compared them  to pictures of the 'baby' Arduns or mocked them up on the V8-60 block but they might be a good starting point for a V8-60 conversion. Just thinkin' a little outside the box.

Tim Boyd would probably be the guy to ask regarding the earlier version Arduns in the first run of the '50 Ford p/u.

Edited by doggie427
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Love this car. Bill are you aware that there are 2 completely different versions of Ardun heads in the Revell '50 Ford p/u ?

The first version had a very short production run i think because they were noticeably undersized and oddly shaped .I've never really compared them  to pictures of the 'baby' Arduns or mocked them up on the V8-60 block but they might be a good starting point for a V8-60 conversion. Just thinkin' a little outside the box.

Not only was the first '50 Pickup ARDUN head setup shaped and sized  wrong, the engine also used a standard flathead intake manifold which is completely wrong as the ARDUN heads have their own intake ports and require a custom manifold. It also requires a separate flat valley plate to cover where the original intake manifold would go.

It's still not enough under size to work on a V860 engine.

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Found a pair of wide-whites that are a scale 1.5" shorter diameter that the first ones. With some fiddling, I was able to drop the grille somewhat relative to the tire tops, and because the diameter of the tires is smaller, the front end came own a pretty good bit.

The allowed me to drop the tail to where the rear tire tops are well above the turtledeck, and to drop the cowl to get a little more rake as well. 

The line between the cowl and the radiator shell is still good (with the top of rad shell lower than the cowl line) and I'm thinking I can come down on the cowl just a tick more.

Ground clearance is also still acceptable for a real-world useful vehicle.

The difference between this mockup and the last one may not look like much to many observers, and to others the changes will be significant in getting a lower, more aggressive and balanced look.

A decision is yet to be made concerning the final front-axle placement and wheelbase...depending on whether the car is to represent a fairly current build with an electric fan, or an earlier period-build with a belt-driven fan on the water pump.

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Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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Thanks for all the interest and kind comments, one and all. I'm still on the fence about the fan. I agree with Dennis that an electric has the potential to look like doo, but then again, a deeply-shrouded unit that didn't scream 'catalog street rod' could look OK, would make the car quieter and get a little power freed up off the line too...not to mention probably cooling better in the bargain.

Since I build these things as if I were building the real one for myself...we'll see.:D

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I agree with Dennis that an electric has the potential to look like doo, but then again, a deeply-shrouded unit that didn't scream 'catalog street rod' could look OK...

You mean instead of a $50 dollar Hayden fan off the shelf from Pepboys with those awesome through-ties rammed through the radiator core to hold it on?

:lol:

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