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Spraying Future - It's the Equipment


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My first airbrush was a Badger Patriot 105. Dual action, easy to handle, clean and sophisticated, at least for model car painting. I've used it for about 3 years and it's a fine piece of equipment, capable of doing very professional art work and model cars too. But after a while and much research, I decided that it was just too much for me. I got several decent to nice paint jobs with it but couldn't spray acrylics or Future through it.  I think a good analogy would be a story that a sage racer told me when I started 1 : 1 racing. "The more complicated you make a race car with multi-adjustable suspension components, finely tuned engine and complexity of operation, the easier it will be to get everything out completely out of whack and the harder to utilize the car to it's fullest potential.

I'd read many times on the forum that people were using relatively simple design airbrushes, usually single action designs. I decided to spring for a Paasche H and I can't believe the ease with which I can spray Future now. I've tried 2 bodies so far. The first was just a test to see what techniques might work best. On the second attempt, I primed a Cobra with Tamiya white and then shot Future on it. Here's what I came up with. No buffing or polishing done yet. I'm pretty satisfied with the results so far. My advice to anyone wanting to try a airbrush, get a simple one.

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I've been using Future for 10 years and only had it crack if I'm impatient, I think it is due to applying it over paint that hasn't fully cured. I usually give it about a week before spraying over rattle can paint, maybe a day over acrylic.

 

I've got a Paasche double action airbrush that I rarely use. I've thought about getting a simpler single action with the idea that simpler might equal trying to use it more often, but have always let the more airbrush savvy convince me that I don't need to... Maybe I will rethink that advice, looks like the H can be found for $30-40 so not a huge expense.

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I've been using Future for 10 years and only had it crack if I'm impatient, I think it is due to applying it over paint that hasn't fully cured. I usually give it about a week before spraying over rattle can paint, maybe a day over acrylic.

 

 

I have had it cracked putting it on paint that had been cured for over a year to one week,  applying via foam brush and A/B.   I do like how it makes clear parts look though.

Edited by martinfan5
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I have had it cracked putting it on paint that had been cured for over a year to one week,  applying via foam brush and A/B.   I do like how it makes clear parts look though.

As a top coat it can crack when the paint it is applied over expands or contracts. 

When applying another clear or paint over it all bets are off, but acrylics seem to be the least likely to crack.

I primarily use it over acrylics, and my rattle cans are mainly limited to Krylon and Rustolium. Maybe it is less happy with some other paint types and I've been lucky not to use them.

I always use it on the clear bits, makes the parts clearer and is nice insurance in case I get glue or paint somewhere it doesn't belong.

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I am in the same situation as Tom.I have both a badger 150 and a 200.The 150 is a dual action and the 200 is a single action.

For me the 200 is what I use for most all my work.It  (200) is easier to spray with and also easier to clean.I do use the 150 

from time to time but the 200 is my go to brush.

 

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If future has possibility of cracking over a painted body, does it crack on a bare clear window?

I have never had Future crack, and use it on virtually ever model I build. Have for about 15 years. That said, I've only rarely used it as an overall clear coat. I use it for clear coating windows and occasionally as a glue. When trying to reclaim old decals, in my experience Future is incredible. However, there are better clear coats for a final finish. I can easily see where using it as a thick clear coat could create issues. I only use it as a thin protective coat.

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