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Revell 60's Drag Master Parts Pak Retro Drag


Dennis Lacy

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Towards the beginning of the year I started a retro dragster projects based on an old 60's original Revell Parts Pak Drag Master frame kit, which is literally just the frame and basic body panels. My model building pal, Jon Ferren, sent it as a surprise in the mail after I casually mentioned I'd like to have one. This frame is essentially the same as the Moon Eyes and Micky Thompson Attempt 1 dragsters, just with a different variation on the roll bar shape. After working the last couple of weekends on my retro-drag '27 T Roadster and getting most of the fab work done on it I got inspired to whip this one back out today and make some progress. 

This is where it was the last time I worked on it. I was originally going to use this set of wheels & tires but once I actually got the front axle mounted and the wheels mounted to the axle today the front of the chassis sat way too high. So part of today's agenda was to put a different pair of wheels and smaller diameter tires on the front to get some forward rake. Once I did that the rears had to go because my OCD brain wouldn't let me mix Halibrand front wheels with American rears...

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Here's where I'm at as of now. The quick change rear axle and narrowed seat come from the Tony Nancy dragster set. The front axle is from Revell's Kurtis Midgets with Tony Nancy hairpin radius rods. The front tires are Modelhaus #T100. The front wheels are resin 5-lug Halibrand's from Drag City Casting. The slicks are from AMT's slicks parts pack and the rear wheels are 4-spoke Halibrand's from AMT's '33 Willys. I also sanded and leveled the body panels and smoothed the middle seam on the 2-piece upper cowling. 

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Here's a closer look at the components that will make up the front suspension. The axle, tie rod and steering arm / drag link are all from Revell's Kurtis Midget kits and the hairpins are from the Tony Nancy dragster set.

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The engine is a Revell '29/'31 Model A block with a clutch housing and direct drive gear box from the Tony Nancy dragster set. The A.R.D.U.N. head conversion was created by me with scratch built cylinder head and tubular intake manifold. The valve cover is from Revell's '50 Ford Pickup. The header is from AMT's Double Dragster set and the Stromberg carbs are from one of Revell's current rodded flathead's. Not shown is a belt driven magneto that I built. 

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I also made a new dash panel that extends all the way down to the frame tubes. The original dash is only about half as deep and I thought it looked a bit strange. I scalloped the bottom and added a bung where the steering shaft pokes through to give it some style. The wheel is from the Fiat in AMT's Double Dragster set and the shaft is made from .040" rod. 

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Not a whole lot left to do fabrication-wise. I will need to mount the steering arm at the cowl and make a longer drag link to the axle. I also need to add some engine details and a parachute mount to the back end of the frame. Visibility inside the body is slim-to-none so I'm not going to bother with any interior details like pedals. Mostly it will just be a showcase for the unique engine.

B)

 

 

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Update:

When I originally cobbled together the A.R.D.U.N. conversion for this Model A engine a couple of years ago it was intended to be in a "street driven" Model A lakes modified. When I repurposed the engine for this dragster it was no longer necessary to have street components like a cooling system so I modified the stock fan belt to just have two pulleys and mounted a belt driven magneto where the generator would normally go. 

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After digging the project back out yesterday and making some progress I found myself wanting the engine to have much more of a purpose-built look as I sat and admired it with its latest updates. Today I had some unexpected free time so I decided to see what I could do to further the "full-race" appearance of the mill. The first step was to scrap the belt driven mag and stock front cover. I replaced the cover with the finned piece from the Chevy engine in Revell's Slingster dragster. I then made a simple crank driven angle drive for the magneto.

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Model A engines didn't originally have an oil filter but a full race version definitely should so I made this simple oil filer adapter with drilled bungs for oil feed hoses that will run to and from.

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On the other side I added the crank case breather tube and a finned breather cap from AMT's '41 Ford Woody street rod. I also added a finned block-off cap to the side of the block where the water inlet would normally go. The block-off plate comes from the hot rodded flathead in Revell's '32 Sedan and '40 Coupe.

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I added a second block-off plate to the front of the cylinder head where I originally had started to make a water pump.

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All mocked up back in the dragster I think the updates give the engine much more of a competition look and add needed general interest. I also drilled the carbs for fuel hoses and drilled the ends of the header pipes.

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Not a whole lot left to do. A couple final engine details and I need to build the steering pitman arm and drag link. 

B)

 

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  • 6 months later...

When I last left off on this little guy (last November, 6 months ago!) it was very close to being ready for final prep for painting. It just needed a few hours worth of details worked out. Yesterday I got inspired to get back on it. 

To wrap up the full-race ARDUN A engine I added some spark plug wire organizers to the side of the block and the edge of the valve cover. In addition I added a fuel line tee to the intake manifold, a fuel hose retaining tab to the frame rail, changed out the carburetors to a pair from Revell's Ed Roth Tweedy Pie (because they have those killer vintage scoops) and an oil dipstick. 

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The other final fab work was building the steering linkage, making a floor filler panel (since the frame kit did not provide one, which is kind of lame because the yellow Mooneyes version of the frame kit does) and mounting a tachometer on top of the cowling. At this point after a lot of off and on and feet dragging, this little guy is finally fully fabbed and ready for final prep work to start the paint process. 

B)

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