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Cobra 427 S/C, 1/24, Monogram/Hasegawa


Matt Bacon

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This is the Hasegawa boxing of Monogram/s 1/24 kit, with additional white metal parts by Fine Molds.

First up, the body in Zero Paints Guardsman Blue, with Zero 2K clear coat. This is as she came out of the paint shop. There are a couple of minor blemishes to polish out, but other than that I don't plan on doing any more "added shininess"

Here's a few of the engine in progress, to compare and contrast the original and Fine Molds parts:

And this young lady will be popping in from time to time in this thread. She's a Master Box figure, from their new "Pin-Up" series:

Loads more work to do on her as well, but she's very nicely sculpted... ;-P

bestest,

M.

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  • 2 months later...

...gosh, it's been a long time since I documented anything on this build! Anyway, on with the show:

body-from-left.jpg

You can get a much better idea of the colour of the body. It's Zero Paints colour matched Guardsman Blue.

chassis-empty-from-rear.jpg

chassis-empty-from-underneath.jpg

Not too many parts here. The FM version of the kit provides the wheel carriers and diff casing in white metal, and both are crisper than the plastic mouldings

spidery-wiring-with-ancillaries.jpg

Again, you can tell which is the metal engine and which the plastic, but Monogram's original tooling is pretty good. Now for the airbox, which is noticeably too chunky as a plastic part.

crash-moulding-airbox.jpg

Crash moulded replacement. The plastic is packaging material.

assembled-engines-2.jpg

assembled-engines.jpg

Thin masking tape painted black for the "foam" seal. It's amazing how much detail both companies have put in to the carb block, considering it's almost all going to disappear under the air filter...

bestest,

M.

 

Edited by Matt Bacon
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Thanks, guys...

Progress is being made -- don't credit me too far, please, Rob: the "staining is just "good enough" painting!

The handbrake and gear shift are white metal parts, the pedals, original Monogram plastic. Pretty good, I reckon. Odd how they did the AC logos, but ignored the accelerator completely!

 Wheels, huh?

 

So, these are the original white metal rims, untouched. There or thereabouts, but I’m not quite convinced…

And these are the Monogram plastic parts, the rear faces are sprayed with Humbrol Metalcote Steel, the fronts with Humbrol Aluminium (56)

…and this:

Is what they look like built up.

bestest,

M.

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metal-hallibrands.jpg
The white metal rims, gently sprayed with Tamiya “Smoke” and flat varnished.

Now, tyres…
tyres-on-drill.jpg
Original hard vinyl tyres, press fitted onto a socket, and spun up to sand off the mould seam and distress.


Post-“wearing”.  I appear to have a pair of Michelin TRXs at the front, and some Goodyears at the rear!

wheels-with-tyres.jpg

The end result.

filters.jpg
Air filters. (R) the white metal Fine Molds version, (L) the Monogra, plastic piece, with the help of a Gundam pen…

bestest,
M.

Edited by Matt Bacon
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First of all, thanks to cobraman and afx for helping me out with a question about the orientation of brake callipers on a 427 S/C. afx sent through a link to a site with many many detail photos which not only answered the question I was asking, but provides a tonne of reference for other bits of the car. Good man!

1965 Shelby Competition Cobra

This is another test fit, now the engine is fully finished:

chassis-with-engine-rear-left.jpg

chassis-with-engine-high-rear.jpg

chassis-with-engine-front-left.jpg

Starting to look like a car now.

NB: Before you glue the engine in position, feed the lower radiator hose through the centre lower triangular gap in the chassis frame cross bracing, and leave it loose in there. It will not go through with the engine in place, past the crank pulley. It will ESPECIALLY not go through it you try and work it the way the Revell/Monogram instructions would have you do it, after attaching it to the radiator. At least the Hasegawa instructions want you to try and feed the pipe through separately, but it still won't go.

(edited after the fact, in case you're reading this before or during your own build!)

complete-engine-from-right.jpg

complete-engine-from-front.jpg

complete-engine-left-profile.jpg

The exhaust manifolds are painted with a new paint from Vallejo Metal Color called, wait for it... "Exhaust Manifold". And washed with AK Interactive "Exhaust Wash". Im liking the effect very much.

wheels-and-brakes.jpg

I polished the white metal discs, and left the callipers in rough bare metal, which looks pretty close to the real thing. Since the location of the rear discs on the frame is not very positive, I've glued them to the rear wheels instead. The front pair will go onto the chassis before the wheels are added, as the instructions suggest!

Now for some seat belts...

bestest,

M.

Edited by Matt Bacon
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...and now, after that word from our sponsor...

I'm using the white metal engine, obviously. But the plastic one isn't bad:

The exhaust manifolds are clearly rather weedy by comparison, but otherwise I don't think it looks bad at all.

Testing out the fit of the wheels. You start to realise how petite the chassis is when you see the wheels and engine in place.

bestest,

M.

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