Wiring question

[Againmikewins]

Hello all! I'm currently in the process of building a Revell Parts Pak Ford 427 motor. I've drilled the intake manifold and distributor to run my spark plug wiring. 

This kit has an ignition coil and a starter. I know that the center wire on the distributor plugs into the the top of the ignition coil. 

My question; where do I run the wiring from the positive battery terminal to the starter and then to the ignition coil? I've been reading and looking at pictures on Google, but I'm not getting very far. 

Thank you all for any help. 

[Ace-Garageguy]

 

My question; where do I run the wiring from the positive battery terminal to the starter and then to the ignition coil? I've been reading and looking at pictures on Google, but I'm not getting very far. 

There is NO direct connection between the starter or the battery and the ignition coil. Besides the big wire on the coil that goes to the distributor, there are two other small "primary" wires that attach to the coil. One comes from the ignition switch, and the other one connects the distributor to the other small terminal on the coil (to tell the coil when to make a spark).

Besides the large wires from the battery to the starter and a ground, and the big secondary coil and plug wires, most modelers don't bother with the rest. They're really too small to deal with in 1/25 scale.

Below is a schematic of a point-type ignition system. The large + wire that runs to the starter is not shown. The arrowy wires are the "secondary" coil and plug wires that many modelers replicate. The other wires (except for the battery ground) are small gauge, and as you see, run from the ignition switch, to the coil, then on to the + side of the points in the distributor.

Below is a typical starting circuit in a simple car. The two large hot and ground wires from the battery are clearly shown. The rest of the wires are small-gauge control wires.

 

 

Edited November 24, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy

[Muncie]

Bill, I like your schematics - that's usually more detail than I put in a model 

Let's add a couple more parts.  Ford has the solenoid ("relay" in this diagram) for the starting system remotely mounted - usually on the fenderwell - The positive battery cable goes from the battery to the solenoid, then to the starter.   Missing in this diagram is the cable from the other side of the solenoid to the starter.

I'm also used to seeing a ballast resistor (or resistor wire) in the wire from the ignition switch to the coil with a bypass wire from the solenoid to the coil for starting with full 12  volts - Chevy guy so not sure where Ford puts the ballast resistor (maybe in the coil?)

More internet image searches for the OP - Ford engine wiring schematic, ford starter wiring schematic, ford ignition wiring schematic... or the basic how to fix your Ford book available inexpensively at most used book stores - or - How to Wire Your Street Rod From Start to Finish by Jack Sweeden, at Speedway Motors about $12 which covers most electrical systems

Hope this helps

[Againmikewins]

Thanks for these schematics, guys! 

I'd assume that running the positive battery cable to the firewall or to a hidden place under the fender wall would be inaccurate. Where do you guys normally send that wire to? I'm also wondering if I should bother drilling out my starter to accept the 30g wire. 

[Ace-Garageguy]

Here's a simplified version of the Ford system Steve posted just above. Lotsa Fords use the remote solenoid as shown, and it can be mounted on the firewall or an inner fender...especially on a custom or rod, you can put it anywhere you want it, for the most part. A remote Ford-style solenoid can be used on non-Fords too, and is sometimes used to shunt heavy current.

As you see, the big heavy + wire runs to the solenoid, and out the other side to the starter motor itself. 

Lotsa other cars, NON-Fords, have the solenoid mounted on the starter housing, in which case, the big heavy + wire runs directly to that (as per the LOWER schematic in the second post).

NOTE: Your big heavy + and - wires are roughly 1/2" in diameter, or larger, on a real car...significantly larger than plug wires. In 1:25 scale, use .5 mm wire (or about .020 inches...much larger than your plug wires should be).

Edited November 24, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy

[Dominik]

i agree with bill.

the heavy [+] cable i always glue it directly to the starter, most i glue the [-] cable to the engineblock (<- why i do this, i dont know yet )

[astroracer]

The easy answer to this is to run short wires from the components into a "loom". Run the loom into the firewall at the fusebox location and you're done. I use "Dial Cord" (google it). Radio Shack used to carry it. Some braided fishing line is a good substitute if it has an inner line you can pull out. Doing this you don't have to worry about correctness.

Mark

[afx]

[Againmikewins]

Thank you all for the schematics! They all help tremendously!

[russosborne]

I'm also used to seeing a ballast resistor (or resistor wire) in the wire from the ignition switch to the coil with a bypass wire from the solenoid to the coil for starting with full 12  volts - Chevy guy so not sure where Ford puts the ballast resistor (maybe in the coil?)

Just wanted to answer this question.

Fords with this type of ignition/starting wiring used a special resistance wire that ran from the ignition switch, they did not use a ballast resistor.

But maybe I shouldn't be giving away secrets to a Chevy guy.

Russ

[Muncie]

thanks Russ - good to have it clarified for the topic at hand - I've spent some time on Fords, too - good to know