New to Airbrushing, What went wrong?

[kymdlr]

Im brand new to airbrushing, so did a little reading about it before I started spraying. This was done with nail polish, thinned with lacquer thinner. I used what i believe was a decent amount of thinner (read that the paint should be the consistency of milk before spraying). The base layer was duplicolor primer from a rattle can, followed by the nail polish sprayed at about 20-22psi.

Not sure what caused the paint to react like this. I probably put on too much paint too soon. With rattle cans I always do a couple mist coats, followed by the heavy coats. with the airbrush I didn't feel like the color coats were covering too well so I pretty much only layed wet coats and didn't stop spraying until I felt there was a decent layer of paint coverage. Is there anyway to save this or should I just  strip it all and start over? Any input is appreciated.

 

[BigTallDad]

Looks like too much pressure coupled with the distance being too great. It appears the paint was fairly dry when it came in contact with the surface.

Remember the "holy trinity" when spraying...viscosity, distance, and pressure, and practice on some plastic spoons (free at the Golden Arches).

[bigfatforty]

If the paint bubbled after you finished applying the last "coat" it probably is the result of not allowing the paint to "gas out" for a few minutes between coats (ask me how I know)......   Even with fast drying lacquer, I think you need to wait 10-20 minutes between coats, at least that's what I was told when I had a similar albeit less severe issue.  I think Ray's response is also correct though.  sacrifice a few plastic spoons to make sure your viscosity, pressure and spray distances are OK before you jump on the model itself.

[Harry Joy]

Well, part of the problem may be that you are using a lacquer thinner with what is probably an enamel paint.

[kymdlr]

Im pretty sure its a lacquer polish. And im leaning toward me be impatient and not waiting enough time in between coats. What pressure do you guys reccommend for spraying.

Edited December 14, 2015 by kymdlr

[Harry Joy]

When I was learning to airbrush, I hated it when people told me this - I wanted hard numbers. But you have to just feel it out. There are too many variables, from airbrush, to paint, to thinner, to compressor - to conditions where you are (actual air pressure, weather, etc). Not only that, you have to play with distance, airbrush to model. In the last picture, it looks like you are spraying from too far away. Get something to test on, and play around.

When I started airbrushing, I went right away spraying on the model in front of me. But I've learned patience. Whenever I'm trying something new, I find something to test on.

That said, I usually airbrush at about 18psi. But there is no golden number. I've just found that 18 fits most situations.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Wow!

That's just nasty!

I've never seen such roughness in the paint, especially on that hood.

To me that looks like a compatibility problem with the paint & thinner.

My suggestion would be to scrap the fingernail polish thing until you get a better grasp on how it reacts.

Being a new airbrush user, you may want to start with a simpler "known" system & then work your way up to the polish.

There are a lot of paint suppliers who make pre-thinned paints specifically designed for airbrush along with compatible thinners & primers.

Possibly start with something like that to get the feel of the operation of the brush before you dive into too many unknowns.

 

Steve

[my80malibu]

looks like a bad reaction, Dont most Nail polishes reduce with Acetone, as opposed to laquer thinner? I have yet to try Nail polish.  Most of the paint product I have used lately is Acrylic Tamiya, Auto Air colors.

[kymdlr]

Thanks for all the replies. I think whats bothering me is that I sprayed the same mixture on a few other parts and tested on the spoon (as i usually do with the rattle cans too) And the polish paint turned out smooth and fine.

I found some killer colors in the nail polish isle the other day that I haven't seen in rattle cans so I HAD to try them out.

[charlie8575]

I agree that it looks like a distance problem. You might have also, as you noted, been in too much of a hurry to cover the parts. 

Strip it and try again. I might suggest using Testors enamel cut with lacquer thinner over Plasti-Kote or Dupli-Color primer as your learning tool. They're not too expensive and you'll get a good feel for how the airbrush works. 

Charlie Larkin

[Ace-Garageguy]

Charlie's right. There's no saving that. Strip it.

I would also respectfully suggest, as I often have, that whenever anyone tries new material combinations, new application methods, or anything with which they're not entirely familiar, they practice on a spare junk body, or lacking that, on plastic pop-bottles prepped and primered exactly the same way you intend to prep your model.

A plastic spoon may be fine for testing colors, but it just isn't large or complex enough to give you a really good idea of how your material is going to handle on a model-car-sized surface.

If you elect to use pop bottles, scrub them with something like Comet and hot water (also a very good idea to do with your model bodies) and a toothbrush. This will scuff the surface so you'll get good primer adhesion, and get into the little nooks and crannies that you really cant reach with sandpaper (and if you try, you'll end up obliterating fine details on your model).

Primer your bottle as you would your model. Exactly. Sand or scuff it the same way you would do your model too.

THEN, apply your paint. Don't rush it. Once you get your material reduction, air pressure, and application completely figured out (and repeatable), paint your model.

This may seem like a lot of unnecessary BS, but so is stripping a model several times while you're learning. If you screw up a bottle, throw it out and try again. 

Practice makes proficiency.

Edited December 14, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy

[peteski]

To me that looks like some sort of bad reaction between the nail polish and the primer.  I use nail polishes for painting model cars and I thin the nail polish with lacquer thinner, or PPG medium temperature reducer.  Many (but not all) lacquer thinners contain acetone but each manufacturer uses different lacquer thinner formula.  I think that using pure acetone to reduce nail polish might make it a bit too "hot" for painting plastic models.

I also use a plastic spoon to test for possible problems with the paint I'm using.

[Skip]

You have a variety of issues going on here.  First, as mentioned is the distance of the brush to the model's surface.  Second, it appears that you may have a under thinned paint, with nearly any paint the rule of thumb is consistency of milk.  Third, air pressure may be too high, start at 20 PSI work up or down until you get the desired coverage.  Four, I've used nail polish for a variety of projects, crafts, signs models..., they don't have any problem thinning with even cheap lacquer thinner.  (lacquer thinner has acetone in it.). Thinning enamels with lacquer thinner is no problem, many sign painters, pinstripers, custom painters and modelers have been doing it for years, like back to the '50's and earlier.  With lacquer the last coat should be the only wet coat, the rest should flash quickly.  This will help prevent "burning" or "crazing" the plastic under the primer.