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I'm encountering a huge issue with my glues. First, the two types I use: Tamiya Extra Thin glue. The type that comes in the small glass bottle with the brush attached to the lid. I use it primarily for construction and NOT around paint. It loves to eat directly through even lacquer paint. I also use thin CA glue. My problem is once I've gone and painted everything and I'm in that final construction phase, I don't have a glue that won't eat paint like its a stoner with the munchies. No matter how hard I try I have issues with CA getting where it shouldn't and eating paint. I'm wondering what sort of glue I can use during that final construction phase with painted parts that wont cause problems with paint but will also provide a strong and lasting bond. 

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My only suggestions would be first, to try to use the Tamiya glue only to glue parts together before painting them.  Secondly, after painting, use CA glue to attach parts sparingly, using a toothpick  to apply the glue so it won't "squish out" onto the painted surfaces.

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Epoxy shouldn't attack your fully-cured paint, but remember...if you glue painted parts together without removing the paint from the bond area, your bond will only be as good as the bond between the plastic and the PAINT.

Trying to assemble as much as possible prior to paint is always good, as I'm sure you know, and a lot of guys pin difficult-to-adhere parts (like mirrors and windshield frames) prior to painting, so that the pin will locate the part exactly on the body after it's painted, and a non-solvent glue like polyvinyl-acetate (white glue) will be sufficient to hold the part in place.

PVA glues (polyvinyl-acetate) also work very well for attaching clear parts and detail elements like plug wires (in pre-drilled holes) because they dry completely clear. The downside to them is that they have no mechanical strength when wet, so you either have to jig or pin parts to use the stuff, or hold them together for hours.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy

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You can put white glue or micro sol liquid mask to the areas that will be glued, prior to painting.  Then remove the glue or mask and glue the parts together. This way you will always have a  plastic to plastic bond.

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Mike, that's an excellent idea. Rich, I will give the toothpicks a try. My two biggest issues are 1. glue either squishing out or running out and 2. accidental contact with a painted surface. I'd like to use a glue that doesn't pose a danger to painted surfaces. I know to glue plastic to plastic, not paint to plastic. I've gone and got some CA applicator tips, the plastic needle looking type as well as some medium CA to avoid glue running out. 

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This glue seems a little stronger than other PVA glues. It can be cleaned up with a damp Q-Tip and will not attack anything. I use it for allot final asembly work.

 

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I use five minute epoxy for paint to paint and chrome to paint gluing. It does not react with paint or chrome at all. It's thick enough that it's easy to control, and sticky enough that it usually doesn't require clamping or holding. I think it's a bit stronger bond than PVA. I only use PVA (Testors Clear Parts Cement) for headlights and tail lights. The down side of the fast epoxy is that you only have time to attach a couple of parts before it starts to cure and becomes useless. I end up mixing several small batches to do final assembly, especially if there is a lot of chrome to attach.

P.S. I made a post a while back complaining about the mess from leaking epoxy tubes. It was suggested that I get the epoxy that comes in small bottles. I have been very happy with that solution.

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P.S. I made a post a while back complaining about the mess from leaking epoxy tubes. It was suggested that I get the epoxy that comes in small bottles. I have been very happy with that solution.

What brand is that one? I have to check it out...

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My only suggestions would be first, to try to use the Tamiya glue only to glue parts together before painting them.  Secondly, after painting, use CA glue to attach parts sparingly, using a toothpick  to apply the glue so it won't "squish out" onto the painted surfaces.

Like Rich had said, use tooth picks to apply glue to the areas you want to glue, as it's much neater. Put some glue on cardboard such as a magazine subscription card, and then use a toothpick to take the amount you want. I've been using toothpicks for years now, not only to apply glue but also to mix paint that come in small bottles. I use toothpicks by the dozens.

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What brand is that one? I have to check it out...

I have the Bob Smith Industries, available at HL. Two ounce plastic bottle, one each of resin and hardener. There are probably others.

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I have the Bob Smith Industries, available at HL. Two ounce plastic bottle, one each of resin and hardener. There are probably others.

Thanks Hugh!

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I use two glues. Tamiya Extra Thin, and CA glues of the gap-filling variety followed with accelerator, (On the rare occasion where needs demand a slow or tacky glue, I use Weldbond white glue.) It is very unusual that I apply glue to paint. Thin CA is one of the most unusable I've ever touched and cannot find a single case in my experience where it was better than other options.

Plan your builds where gluing painted surfaces does not occur. If you find yourself in a pickle and have to do that, use slow CAs and a kicker.

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Plan your builds where gluing painted surfaces does not occur. If you find yourself in a pickle and have to do that, use slow CAs and a kicker.

Or, simply remove the glue with some glue on a q-tip! 

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One if you are having issues with ca glue oozing out you are using too much. As said toothpicks are great for minimizing excess glue.

To protect bodies from accidents polish and wax it before final assembly. Also for attaching thins like winshields say 29 ford use white glue which will minimize the chances of damaging paint. Also assemble as much as possible before painting to minimize the amount of final assembly glueing.

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huh?

I use Model Master glue with the metal needle... The other day, I needed to remove the paint from the area where a headlight bucket was going to be installed. I had the chrome removed, and I wanted to remove the paint where it would be installed. So, I put a little glue on a q-tip and used it as a "remover". 

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 Also for attaching things like windshields say 29 ford use white glue which will minimize the chances of damaging paint.

While "white glue" will dry clear, you can still see it if it oozed out behind your clear windshield. For this reason, I use Micromark's PSA. Just wait until it's dry and the oozing problem is minimized before installing that clear windshield. You can always follow up with a stronger glue later, because PSA will loosen up under tension.

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