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Cannonball Run 2016 "The Aussieball" Official Build Thread


TFchronos

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Thanks.  Given my skills, or lack thereof, I thought making a dash might be out of my realm.  I was thinking about buying one of the Land Cruiser kits since it looks nice and it comes with parts for both versions.  I am thinking about building the Tamiya Grand Cherokee and was hoping that the RHD dash from the Land Cruiser would kind of fit.

 

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Thanks.  Given my skills, or lack thereof, I thought making a dash might be out of my realm.  I was thinking about buying one of the Land Cruiser kits since it looks nice and it comes with parts for both versions.  I am thinking about building the Tamiya Grand Cherokee and was hoping that the RHD dash from the Land Cruiser would kind of fit.

 

If you look on some of the japanese kit sale sites, a lot of them say if they come with left or right dashes. Hasegawa and aoshima tend to include both.

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350hp.  Is that all Ray?  I'm using an 800ci mountain motor detuned for reliability to a mere 1000hp.

I've already begun forging the unobtanium gearsets for the tranny, transfer box and diffs...

:lol:

BTW Dennis.  When painting the Tamiya 'cruiser watch that mica red plastic.  You might think you've sealed it under your paint but then put down too heavy a coat of clear...
Don't ask me how I know.

 

I'm being conservative Fred :lol:!

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I thank you all for the privilege of running an annual Cannonball. It was fun. 

Now for my entry. I think I have something figured out but just need to pull at least the basic parts together. But one thing it will be BIG, powerful, RHD. Look out road trains and caravaners.

 

Tim

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Thanks Fred.  I was planning on using Dupli-color automotive primer on it first.  You think that would suffice to seal the red menace?

Maybe.  Some say silver automotive paint will seal in the red and others Future but IME nothing will keep it hidden if you go too heavy with a later coat (due I assume to the solvents penetrating down through the layers).
I'd say prime and them apply a white undercoat over the top.  if it stays white then you've done it.  If not then you need to try something else.

And if you have success then light coats only as you apply the rest of the paint.  Enamel primer will not work on its own.

Of course you could always paint it red.

A tip for making RHD dashes.  The hardest part is getting a good fit to the base of the windscreen and the sides of the interior tub.  To ensure you get this take the original LHD dash from the kit and cut away the guts leaving a C shaped shell.  You may need to glue a temporary brace across inside before you cut to maintain rigidity.  Your aim is to remove anything which isn't symmetrical.
Then, cut the instruments, stereo, ash tray etc from the bits you cut off and using sheet styrene and filler rebuild the C section shaped into a dash with the steering on the correct side.  It's not too hard if you are not going for something prototypically correct.  Kits which give you decals for the instruments are your friend here.
As far as the pedals re concerned I rarely bother moving them from left to right unless I am building an open car as when everything is all buttoned up you usually can't see them anyway.

 

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i don't know if this is allowed but am i allowed to rebuild my datto from last year with 4wd and features ready for aussie terrain 

Also Ray you can use a drinking straw for a snorkel

No problems with that Brayden, you just need to show a picture before the start showing your intentions (Datto ute and 4X4 donor chassis or whatever your plan is) ;):)

Yeah thought about the trusty drinking straw, but I have something else in mind.....

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No problems with that Brayden, you just need to show a picture before the start showing your intentions (Datto ute and 4X4 donor chassis or whatever your plan is) ;):)

Yeah thought about the trusty drinking straw, but I have something else in mind.....

well the hilux chassis that i put under it is 4x4 swapable so i might make my entry the datto for now unless i get something a bit more suitable next week 

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Maybe.  Some say silver automotive paint will seal in the red and others Future but IME nothing will keep it hidden if you go too heavy with a later coat (due I assume to the solvents penetrating down through the layers).I'd say prime and them apply a white undercoat over the top.  if it stays white then you've done it.  If not then you need to try something else.
And if you have success then light coats only as you apply the rest of the paint.  Enamel primer will not work on its own.

Of course you could always paint it red.

A tip for making RHD dashes.  The hardest part is getting a good fit to the base of the windscreen and the sides of the interior tub.  To ensure you get this take the original LHD dash from the kit and cut away the guts leaving a C shaped shell.  You may need to glue a temporary brace across inside before you cut to maintain rigidity.  Your aim is to remove anything which isn't symmetrical.
Then, cut the instruments, stereo, ash tray etc from the bits you cut off and using sheet styrene and filler rebuild the C section shaped into a dash with the steering on the correct side.  It's not too hard if you are not going for something prototypically correct.  Kits which give you decals for the instruments are your friend here.
As far as the pedals re concerned I rarely bother moving them from left to right unless I am building an open car as when everything is all buttoned up you usually can't see them anyway.

 

Thanks again Fred. In fact, I was going with Dupli-color silver for the color.  I think I'd better do the body early in the build to be sure.

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Thanks Fred.  I was planning on using Dupli-color automotive primer on it first.  You think that would suffice to seal the red menace?

Duplicolor primer won't seal the red if your using duplicolor clear - not in my experience. Primer and color goes down fine - clear magically brings that plastic to the surface. You will need to seal with Future or a sealer primer.

Unless Fred has different experience...

I will finish my current model and decide how I will approach this year's run - I am 1 for 3 on completions so far...

Edited by Erik Smith
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Duplicolor primer won't seal the red if your using duplicolor clear - not in my experience. Primer and color goes down fine - clear magically brings that plastic to the surface. You will need to seal with Future or a sealer primer.

Unless Fred has different experience...

I will finish my current model and decide how I will approach this year's run - I am 1 for 3 on completions so far...

Yeah, but that one won. So that's not to bad in my opinion.

And Ray, I'm not ignoring your suggestion on the checkpoint change. I just haven't gotten around to editing the map yet, but I will later today. :)

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Okay, here is what I came up with. 

The crew at Coyote Labs, my top secret automotive shop, wanted to build a modern all-out race style truck. I wanted a retro racer, and since I pay the bills...

One 1964 Plymouth Belvedere plus various parts from a more modern chassis:

20253B33-D2DC-4F69-B2AB-D78A660F9406_zps

I love old iron, but for an endurance race, I love modern power. Engine will be a variant of the new Hemi engine, starting with the 6.1 but, depending on my initiative, may end up with a few more horses. 

Now, to finish my current Mopar so I can get crackin' on this!

Edited by Erik Smith
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Not done anything yet except think, shop and then take delivery of the results.

These are the mutts nuts.
Aber%20Shockers_zpswuzwne55.jpg

Has anyone bought anything from Clearly Scale? http://clearlyscale.com

 

 

I've got some of Jeremy's ( Clearly Scale) parts for my Gunze Daytona. They're just resin copies of the crappy white metal parts cleaned up, interior panels, suspension towers, rims etc, nicely casted. I just this week purchased one of his complete engines and some other items, so if you can wait about a week I'll have them and can post some pics for you.

David

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I painted a snapper corvette silver over red plastic,...  a week later I hit it with clear,.......I got orange /silver...just sayin'

Here's the recipe that has never let me down on covering red/yellow plastic. Very simple.

1 coat of Krylon flat metallic silver over the bare plastic.

Prime over the silver and paint as usual. 

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I can't believe I missed this thread so far! 

Anyway, I know I've completely and utterly failed at the last 2 Cannonballs I've been in... but maybe the 3rd time is a charm. 

Count me in w/ a 1980 Ford Bronco. No pics yet but I have the kit at home... will get pics up.

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I've been working on finding a build that interests me so that I can participate this year. I may have done so. Details to follow.

If you are like me and yet to find your inspiration, do a Google search for the Peking to Paris Motor Challenge. Theres an awful lot of really fun racers there.

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