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Cannonball Run 2016 "The Aussieball" Official Build Thread

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@CFMgarage:  Hopefully, I can do the van justice.  I really like the concept that you are going with.  I hope that you can get your ride height vs. wheel travel problem solved.

 

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I got to work on my entry a little because my current build was kind of put on hold, as you can tell from the background. I scratch built part of the suspension today. I only made leaf springs, no shocks yet. I also want to detail it with U-bolts, steering, and torsion bars. The wheels and tires are from the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon kit, and so are the axles (both Dana 44s). It will be very high.56ca552eeb172_20160221_1710501.thumb.jpg56ca557a96f37_20160221_1712291.thumb.jpg56ca558110c99_20160221_1714191.thumb.jpg56ca55869069d_20160221_1718141.thumb.jpg

There are a lot of awesome builds here. Nice work everyone!

Jay

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I haven't touched my Bronco yet... I've been doing some research on suspension and looking into wheel/tire combos.

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I'm in the same boat as you Jesse. Doing a little research and finishing up another project before I get started on the 48 Woody.

 

Looks like many of you are off to a great start. I can't wait to tear into mine soon.

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I got my base model in (posted in the 'What did you get' thread) but now I am waiting on the wheels/tires and spray booth that I ordered.  If I can take the plans that I have in my head and put them in plastic, this will turn out real neat.

 

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K5 Blazer - Entry #18 UPDATE!

G'Day Mates,

Haven't had as much time at the workbench, so here is an update on what has been going on. Have the body nearly ready for its first primer coat after dealing with numerous injection pin marks, deepening panel lines (added the rocker panel/front fender seam), and hopefully found all the mold lines (rear panel light and tailgate are tricky). Also getting the chassis ready, need to switch over the steering box and linkage to the other side and add the roll bar connectors. Been playing around with file cards to come up with skid plates for front and back.

What has taken a lot of bench time has been the roll bar cage. Using the drawing and various sizes of plastic rod I've cobbled up what you see below. Thankfully it all fits! The cage will be connected to the frame below and have roof rack mounts as the top is just fibreglass. The cage had to be narrowed in the cargo space to allow room for the fuel cells and wheel wells. Going to mount two upright spare tires to it and have a couple of jerry cans for water. Still need to finish off the cockpit area of the cage with seat mounts and front frame connectors.

That's about it for now, cheers Misha

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Edited by Misha
Spelling and added detail

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image.thumb.jpeg.d7404d95bd76851a435172f

 

 

Wow. That is some cage. Don't know if anyone told you, but there aren't any lions in Australia. :D

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Yet I've heard the kangaroos can be viscous!

Seriously though, I've checked out a few sources for off road roll cages and the intricacy is something else (believe I have a link above in this thread). Of particular note is the increased strength of triangles as opposed to parallel bars, makes sense, like the old three legged milking stool. It has also been a challenge to construct as it's my first attempt. Always been impressed by the work of Outlaw modellers in this regard.

Thanks for looking, 

Cheers Misha

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It looks like I may have a major problem that puts my entry out of the running and will force me to come up with something else.  I was just reading over the original post and saw that the scale was restricted to 1/24 & 1/25 and the base model that I will be using is 1/20.  So unless the "powers that be" want to let me slide on the scale, I will have to ditch the "Hijacker" for something else.  Serves me right for not reading closely.:(

 

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Well, I was going to do an axle swap on the Bronco but in talking to a friend of mine who is big into F-series trucks and broncos he advised me to stick with the stock front setup. Being that the monogram castings are pretty basic I'm now looking at how I can lift the suspension and still get it to look good. (since the suspension is molded in 1 piece and hollow on the back side!)

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While I would prefer it if we could kept our builds to equal/near scale if enough participants say they are fine with larger scales mixing in then go ahead and build it and I'll just take that requirement out of the rules. I noted it because another member asked about it and to my knowledge in the past years everyone has done either 1/24 or 1/25 scale kits.

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Classically this has been a 1/24 or 1/25 scale CBP. But with our current theme in mind, and acknowledging that there are several 1/20 scale 4x4s available that would fit this theme well, I would be fine with making an exception to the rule.

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Well, I was going to do an axle swap on the Bronco but in talking to a friend of mine who is big into F-series trucks and broncos he advised me to stick with the stock front setup. Being that the monogram castings are pretty basic I'm now looking at how I can lift the suspension and still get it to look good. (since the suspension is molded in 1 piece and hollow on the back side!)

Jesse, I would check the internet for pictures of Full size Ford pre-runner and race trucks for information. When I did my conversion of the Revell snap Expedition to more detail I used the front 4x4 suspension from the Lindburg F-150. But I think a pre-runner/ race truck would be better for the Aussie Ball.

 

Tim

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Meh, I'm fine with 1/20 people but no larger. It makes it a lot easier to scratch build bigger products, so 1/20 should be the limit.

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Thanks for the support on letting me use the 1/20 scale van.  I was thinking that it would actually be harder for me since that is a hard scale to find stuff for and my scratch building skills border on non-existent.  I'll wait a while (I am still waiting for some stuff in the mail anyway) and if I don't hear any complaints, I'll go ahead and do it.

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K5 Blazer - Entry #18 UPDATE: Passenger Compartment Cage

G'Day! A small update illustrating the added passenger compartment roll cage to the main structure. From my reading the seats in these type of vehicles are required to be part of the roll cage structure to form a complete unit with the vehicle frame. To accomplish this I taped down the roll cage down to one mat with the centrelines marked on tape and the cage itself. Then the bottom seat structure was located on the lower mat, as there is a step down in the floor, again making sure all was aligned to the centre line. From here it was figuring out how to attach the two pieces together. Using the notion of triangular construction and various bits of plastic rod the two were mated together. I'm also using the seats out of the Revell snap kit of the Enzo Ferrari. 

So far, so good! Everything aligns up and thank goodness for Tenax 7R (great name) and CA glue.

Cheers Misha

 

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Edited by Misha
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I'm finishing up a couple old builds now guys, be back on the Critter Catcher soon.

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Very nice work with that roll cage!

Looked at my entry for a little bit the other day, doing some "imaginative" planning. :P

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Very nice work with that roll cage!

Looked at my entry for a little bit the other day, doing some "imaginative" planning. :P

:lol::lol: Same here:lol::lol:

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That is some serious Bar work Misha :blink:!

 

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Nice cage work Meesh, just bolt the drive train to it, and yer doneB)

Is it just me, or is it really quiet at the cannonball, this year...?

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