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Art Anderson

Moebius '61 Ventura windshield

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Further on Bill Geary's excellent tutorial:  I just got done studying the glass here, and found that there is a mold parting line all the way around the edge (and on the edge) of the windshield, making for a very slight "pent-roof" shape there, when that edge itself should be flat in cross-section.  I took a flat fine needle file, and gently filed this down all the way around the glass, and believe it or not,that took care of the problem.  Total time elapsed?  Less than 10 minutes!

It's not necessary to even touch the visible surfaces of the glass when doing this, and the needle file works very well, as it's stiff (of course) and doesn't "wrap around" like sandpaper can.  I'm now toying with the idea of gluing in the windshield and back glass before priming and painting,simply masking off the glass and it's molded on trim moldings prior to painting.

Art

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Putting the windshield in ahead of time Art is a good idea! I was thinking of doing the same thing when I painted my '59 Impala as those oh so thin windshield pillars were making me very nervous. I was able to get it polished and rubbed out though for the most part without any issues.

I hadn't noticed the mold line on the '61............I just knew that something needed to be filed out in order to get it to sit correctly in the opening. The kit is so nice..........I'd hate for anyone to give up on it due to something not fitting right. It reinforces what I've always said though about all bodywork being done (including glass) first before moving on to the engine, chassis and interior.

Painting the body IMO should be last. 

Saves for a lot of surprises down the road after you've got 'er all painted up nice, and there's a major snag with getting everything to fit.

Edited by MrObsessive

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Glad I ordered TWO kits. Echoing Harry P why should i have to do this. It's a great idea,but now I get a chance to practice fitting another one from the second kit. We waited a loonng time for this kit and this is disappointing.

Mike

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Just to clarify, is there suppose to be a beveled edge around edge of the glass to fit the beveled channel on the body? Or is this to be considered excess flash and is to be removed entirely from the glass? I don't want to file out the bevel and find it was too far.

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All is not lost! Contacted Moebius customer service and they are sending me a replacement windshield!

Thumbs up to Moebius!! 

 

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Just to clarify, is there suppose to be a beveled edge around edge of the glass to fit the beveled channel on the body? Or is this to be considered excess flash and is to be removed entirely from the glass? I don't want to file out the bevel and find it was too far.

Good question. I tried the Second kit I ordered and although it's better (acceptable)  I am looking for a clear adhesive to fill the gaps.On a positive note A brief go around on the rear glass with some 400 grit paper yielded a perfect fit.

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Good question. I tried the Second kit I ordered and although it's better (acceptable)  I am looking for a clear adhesive to fill the gaps.On a positive note A brief go around on the rear glass with some 400 grit paper yielded a perfect fit.

I saw Bob Downie recommend Formula 560 (I think?) canopy glue, which sounds like it'll do exactly that. 

Charlie Larkin

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I saw Bob Downie recommend Formula 560 (I think?) canopy glue, which sounds like it'll do exactly that. 

Good question. I tried the Second kit I ordered and although it's better (acceptable)  I am looking for a clear adhesive to fill the gaps.On a positive note A brief go around on the rear glass with some 400 grit paper yielded a perfect fit.

I have used F560, and it's simply a white glue that turns clear when dry. However, it's not much of a "filler". I would suggest epoxy to fill the gaps...

Edited by fseva

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I have used F560, and it's simply a white glue that turns clear when dry. However, it's not much of a "filler". I would suggest epoxy to fill the gaps...

Formula 560 is perfect for the job, epoxy is total overkill. F560 is exponentially stronger than Elmers, and it's thicker. I use it on nearly every model, and yes it can and will fill gaps. Love it, amazingly good product. It's also easier to wipe away excess than epoxy. Epoxy has its uses, but again total overkill on this glass, once the edges have been dressed and modified to fit the body, there should be no gaps.

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