First Model kit came in! Help

[Suzier]

I've posted here before asking a few questions when my first model kit was still shipping. Today the model came in! Fujimi Initial D Ryousuke's Rx7 FC! 

About the questions, are mold lines the little bits of extra plastic attacheted to body? Or are mold lines the panel lines? And what sand grit do you guys recommend? Also, which glue do you guys recommend?

Thanks (: 

 

[MrObsessive]

Suzy, mold lines are those ridges or raised lines you'll see sometimes around the back of the body, along fender tops, and around the front corners of the model. I'm not familiar with the particular kit you have, but those are the typical places where they are found. Kit makers have those in this area due to how the mold was tooled. Most bodies are done using a two piece mold, and where those molds join together to form a complete body, is where you'll see those "parting lines".

What you described sounds like "flash", where the mold may be starting to wear, and the plastic is seeping through because the molds don't fit as tightly as when they were new. Your kit looks like it's pretty new, so I don't think you'll have a problem with that, and not to mention that the Japanese kits are not known for excessive flash anyway. Not to say that can't have issues later on.

As far as sandpaper grits, I use a 400 grit to get rid of those mold/parting lines, followed up with 600 grit to leave the surface with some teeth for the paint to adhere better. Some fellows methods may differ------this is what works best for me.

As far as glues? Well that's a loaded question as there's different types of glues for different things. For general assembly that doesn't involve the body, I'll use liquid glue such as Ambroid Pro Weld or Tenax. Tamiya also makes an excellent glue, although it dries just a bit slower than the other brands. I'll use 5 min. epoxy for bodywork and glass, and sometimes for other situations I may use a CA glue, but I don't recommend that for you just yet. It's powerful stuff as it's basically a crazy glue, and can really catch you off guard if you're not careful.

One should have an arsenal of different glues for different things as there's just not one "type" of glue for all things. 

If I can make one suggestion since you're new at this-----------take your time! One of the biggest pitfalls for new builders is to fly through a kit, and end of having done something that's irreversible. You may not be totally happy with your own results when it's all finished up, but that's one of the things this hobby's all about. Learning new things as you go along, but not trying to do all things all at once. 

Hope this helps! 

[Suzier]

Suzy, mold lines are those ridges or raised lines you'll see sometimes around the back of the body, along fender tops, and around the front corners of the model. I'm not familiar with the particular kit you have, but those are the typical places where they are found. Kit makers have those in this area due to how the mold was tooled. Most bodies are done using a two piece mold, and where those molds join together to form a complete body, is where you'll see those "parting lines".

What you described sounds like "flash", where the mold may be starting to wear, and the plastic is seeping through because the molds don't fit as tightly as when they were new. Your kit looks like it's pretty new, so I don't think you'll have a problem with that, and not to mention that the Japanese kits are not known for excessive flash anyway. Not to say that can't have issues later on.

As far as sandpaper grits, I use a 400 grit to get rid of those mold/parting lines, followed up with 600 grit to leave the surface with some teeth for the paint to adhere better. Some fellows methods may differ------this is what works best for me.

As far as glues? Well that's a loaded question as there's different types of glues for different things. For general assembly that doesn't involve the body, I'll use liquid glue such as Ambroid Pro Weld or Tenax. Tamiya also makes an excellent glue, although it dries just a bit slower than the other brands. I'll use 5 min. epoxy for bodywork and glass, and sometimes for other situations I may use a CA glue, but I don't recommend that for you just yet. It's powerful stuff as it's basically a crazy glue, and can really catch you off guard if you're not careful.

One should have an arsenal of different glues for different things as there's just not one "type" of glue for all things. 

If I can make one suggestion since you're new at this-----------take your time! One of the biggest pitfalls for new builders is to fly through a kit, and end of having done something that's irreversible. You may not be totally happy with your own results when it's all finished up, but that's one of the things this hobby's all about. Learning new things as you go along, but not trying to do all things all at once. 

Hope this helps! 

Thanks! I'll think before painting. I've been looking at the tail lights and i was wondering how to paint it? should i paint on the clear plastic or on the body it self? and show I use regular paint? 

[my80malibu]

CA glue is ok to use in my opinion. I would suggest the Gel type. The regular  CA types are very Runny, and could lead you to unitended damage. The advantage of the gel type is it gives you a setup time, or small window to adjust. it is also gap filling which can become an advantage later on. I do not recommend CA glue for windshields or clear parts.

Painting your tail lights before is what most modelers do, then attache with the epoxy, or craft glue such as Elmers white glue. When using epoxy it is critical to mix the correct amount ratio, then carefully apply to the desired part sparingly, wait a little to give it time to start to "Kick", or tack up, then move the part into position to avoid smearing.

 

Edited March 19, 2016 by my80malibu