STYRENE-SURFER Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 Got it all mocked up with Aleene"s Tacky adhesive. Motor mount is just temperary and will need some fine tuning but I think I got the elevation right. The stance looks close, maybe rear end needs to be brought up just a bit. Steering gear box and shaft are located (this will make things interesting doing the headers) its a tight space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeatMan Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 Good to see it back on the bench! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STYRENE-SURFER Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 On 10/3/2018 at 7:55 AM, Snake45 said: IIRC Chevy didn't have an orange in its paint range in the '60s until 1969 Hugger Orange, unless maybe it's a truck or fleet color. Or their orange engine paint of the early '60s. The posted color photo on page 2 looks absolutely typical of '65 Ford Poppy Red, which as you say has a definite orange bent to it. I'd go with that without hesitation. Good to see you working on this again! Snake, you're think'n just as I am. Here is a pic of an Poppy Red mustang in full sunlight. sure could be mistaken for Orange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STYRENE-SURFER Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 2 hours ago, MeatMan said: Good to see it back on the bench! Thanx, there is still a ways to go. Next step will be making the front suspension leaves and shackles. Because the frame is glued to the interior tub(to fragile to make separate) I have to consider how I will paint this thing. Some chassis details will have to be added after paint so masking doesn't become too impossible. Still trying to decide if I should start with the Aluminium color and mask for the Black frame or the other the other way around and use Alclad Aluminum over a Black base. Decisions decisions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iBorg Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 Its great.....but. The mock up seat is a 70's pro stock unit. I know as I search for them. I'd suggest either a bucket out of a Cobra or Little Red Wagon. You could also use the stock seat. Very few cars of this era had a head rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 (edited) Mock-up looks great and IMHO I think you nailed the stance. You could maybe thin out the lip around the rear wheel and raise the opening a bit. That would give you more tire clearance without having the raise the rear of the car. Edited October 4, 2018 by afx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STYRENE-SURFER Posted October 5, 2018 Author Share Posted October 5, 2018 1 hour ago, iBorg said: Its great.....but. The mock up seat is a 70's pro stock unit. I know as I search for them. I'd suggest either a bucket out of a Cobra or Little Red Wagon. You could also use the stock seat. Very few cars of this era had a head rest. iBorg, yup that is actually a seat out of a Johan S.&M. Barracuda kit. Only for mock-up or will have to cut the headrest shaved off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iBorg Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 Before you do that, let's talk. I'm sure I can find some suitable options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 54 minutes ago, afx said: You could maybe thin out the lip around the rear wheel and raise the opening a bit. That would give you more tire clearance without having the raise the rear of the car. I agree about reducing the lip, but disagree about raising the opening. It already comes up farther than on the real car. The kit rear openings are HUGE and it's difficult to find a tire that comes anywhere near filling them as it is. I think the rear of the car could stand raising just a hair. In the photo of the mockup, the bottom edge of the body appears to run right through the axle centerline. In the real pic, the bottom edge of the body would appear to run an inch, maybe not quite two inches above the axle centerline. Actually, the mockup looks fine as it is, and most people would never notice that trivial discrepancy at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STYRENE-SURFER Posted October 5, 2018 Author Share Posted October 5, 2018 47 minutes ago, afx said: Mock-up looks great and IMHO I think you nailed the stance. You could maybe thin out the lip around the rear wheel and raise the opening a bit. That would give you more tire clearance without having the raise the rear of the car. AFX, If you look at where the top of the rear wheel and how it is just below the style crease that runs horizontally (don't know the correct terminology) I think Im off a bit. But that is a problem with the AMT moulding.The rear wheel opening is just a little too high, using tires just oversize I think minimizes the problem. Also look at how forward those front wheels are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 (edited) When I say raise the opening I'm talking about the lower edge, raise the apex of the opening not actually move it up higher on the fender. Regardless of what you decide to do or not do, I love the build so far. Yea they often slide to body back to induce more weight transfer causing the axles line to be forward of center. Edited October 5, 2018 by afx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STYRENE-SURFER Posted October 6, 2018 Author Share Posted October 6, 2018 23 hours ago, afx said: When I say raise the opening I'm talking about the lower edge, raise the apex of the opening not actually move it up higher on the fender. Regardless of what you decide to do or not do, I love the build so far. Yea they often slide to body back to induce more weight transfer causing the axles line to be forward of center. JC, I'm not following you on "raising the apex". Still looking for the right front wheels for this, the ones in the Revell K.S. pittman Willys would be perfect but they only fit their too wide front tires. AMT Ohio George 33 Willys are close but are four lug and SMALL window Halibrands. Looked at Speed City Resin, think they have what I need for front wheels and tires. The rear Wheels on this car look to an awful lot like those in the Monogram Lil' Coffin kit. anyone know what those were? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 29 minutes ago, STYRENE-SURFER said: Still looking for the right front wheels for this, the ones in the Revell K.S. pittman Willys would be perfect but they only fit their too wide front tires. AMT Ohio George 33 Willys are close but are four lug and SMALL window Halibrands. Looked at Speed City Resin, think they have what I need for front wheels and tires. The rear Wheels on this car look to an awful lot like those in the Monogram Lil' Coffin kit. anyone know what those were? Speed City has good parts and customer service. Another source for the wheels is Ed Fluck at Drag City Casting - http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/member_dealer_directory/drag-city-casting-/ I like what you're doing here and have been enjoying following along - good work, neat project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 (edited) On 10/5/2018 at 9:31 PM, Muncie said: Speed City has good parts and customer service. Another source for the wheels is Ed Fluck at Drag City Casting - http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/member_dealer_directory/drag-city-casting-/ I like what you're doing here and have been enjoying following along - good work, neat project. Ed has some very nice American Racing Mags. And some nice 5 slots. Edited October 8, 2018 by afx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 On 10/5/2018 at 8:57 PM, STYRENE-SURFER said: JC, I'm not following you on "raising the apex". The peak of the wheel opening arc is the apex (highest point) of the curve. The opening in this photo looks more "D" shaped than a true semicircle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deuces Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 1 hour ago, afx said: Ed has some very nice American Racing Mags. And some nice 5 slots. Very kool..... ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deuces Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 Here ya go..... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STYRENE-SURFER Posted October 8, 2018 Author Share Posted October 8, 2018 On 10/5/2018 at 8:31 PM, Muncie said: Speed City has good parts and customer service. Another source for the wheels is Ed Fluck at Drag City Casting - http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/member_dealer_directory/drag-city-casting-/ I like what you're doing here and have been enjoying following along - good work, neat project. Muncie, Thanx for that link. will have a look around at Ed's parts. 20 hours ago, afx said: The peak of the wheel opening arc is the apex (highest point) of the curve. The opening in this photo looks more "D" shaped than a true semicircle. J.C. Now I get what you're saying. Didn't notice that before. Did some work in the shop on the front leaf suspension, only took two attempts to get those 4 holes spaced equally. I can't tell how many leaves where used on the real car so Im only going to make 2. 3 just looks wrong with the styrene I have on hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STYRENE-SURFER Posted October 8, 2018 Author Share Posted October 8, 2018 13 hours ago, Deuces said: Here ya go..... ? If the Souza Bros. where running that engine they would have been unbeatable. Tho they did quite well with there Algon-injected 427 Wedge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STYRENE-SURFER Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 (edited) Some more progress today. Added shock mount to the leaf spring platforms, got one side glued up. Have to sand down the heads on the U bolts. They are made from Plastruct .8mm styrene Hex rod hoping that the effect will appear like nuts. Edited October 10, 2018 by STYRENE-SURFER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 Tidy work Kurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Caballo Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 Great build so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iBorg Posted October 12, 2018 Share Posted October 12, 2018 Every time I look at this build I want to start trying to replicate it. You're doing a great job on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sledsel Posted October 16, 2018 Share Posted October 16, 2018 (edited) This thing has really turned into something and am liking it. So much so I pulled my stalled kit out. Can I give a bit of advice/info? Turn the oil pan around or make the front deeper. The oil pump is in the front and the pan is too shallow in the front for the pump. Obviously, I am speaking about a 1:1 car, but to make it more accurate, it would need something. Just an FYI Attached is a stock type rear sump and a new style aftermarket pan Edited October 16, 2018 by Sledsel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STYRENE-SURFER Posted October 16, 2018 Author Share Posted October 16, 2018 (edited) 12 hours ago, Sledsel said: This thing has really turned into something and am liking it. So much so I pulled my stalled kit out. Can I give a bit of advice/info? Turn the oil pan around or make the front deeper. The oil pump is in the front and the pan is too shallow in the front for the pump. Obviously, I am speaking about a 1:1 car, but to make it more accurate, it would need something. Just an FYI Attached is a stock type rear sump and a new style aftermarket pan Thanx Andy, Here is a picture of the version of the car I'm building. You can see the shape of the oil pan clearly. Interesting how they setup the front geometry. Look at how the front tires have swung forward on launch. Edited October 16, 2018 by STYRENE-SURFER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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