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STYRENE-SURFER

They shoot horses, don't they?

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Got it all mocked up with Aleene"s Tacky adhesive. Motor mount is just temperary and will need some fine tuning

but I think I got the elevation right. The stance looks close, maybe rear end needs to be brought up just a bit.

DSC01230-vi.jpg

Steering gear box and shaft are located (this will make things interesting doing the headers) its a tight space.

DSC01219-vi.jpg

DSC01212-vi.jpg

DSC01224-vi.jpg

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On 10/3/2018 at 7:55 AM, Snake45 said:

IIRC Chevy didn't have an orange in its paint range in the '60s until 1969 Hugger Orange, unless maybe it's a truck or fleet color. Or their orange engine paint of the early '60s. 

The posted color photo on page 2 looks absolutely typical of '65 Ford Poppy Red, which as you say has a definite orange bent to it. I'd go with that without hesitation. 

Good to see you working on this again! B)

Snake, you're think'n just as I am:D. Here is a pic of an Poppy Red mustang in full sunlight. sure could be mistaken for Orange.

poppy-vi.png

 

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2 hours ago, MeatMan said:

Good to see it back on the bench!

Thanx, there is still a ways to go. 

Next step will be making the front suspension leaves and shackles. Because the frame is glued to the interior tub(to fragile to make separate)

I have to consider how I will paint this thing. Some chassis details will have to be added after paint so masking doesn't become too impossible.

Still trying to decide if I should start with the Aluminium color and mask for the Black frame or the other the other way around and use Alclad

Aluminum over a Black base. Decisions decisions:wacko:

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Its great.....but. The mock up seat is a 70's pro stock unit. I know as I search for them. I'd suggest either a bucket out of a Cobra or Little Red Wagon. You could also use the stock seat. Very few cars of this era had a head rest.

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Mock-up looks great and IMHO I think you nailed the stance.  You could maybe thin out the lip around the rear wheel and raise the opening a bit.  That would give you more tire clearance without having the raise the rear of the car.

Image result for souza bros. mustang afx

Edited by afx

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1 hour ago, iBorg said:

Its great.....but. The mock up seat is a 70's pro stock unit. I know as I search for them. I'd suggest either a bucket out of a Cobra or Little Red Wagon. You could also use the stock seat. Very few cars of this era had a head rest.

iBorg, yup that is actually a seat out of a Johan S.&M. Barracuda kit. Only for mock-up or will have to cut the headrest shaved off.

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Before you do that, let's talk. I'm sure I can find some suitable options.

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54 minutes ago, afx said:

You could maybe thin out the lip around the rear wheel and raise the opening a bit.  That would give you more tire clearance without having the raise the rear of the car.

I agree about reducing the lip, but disagree about raising the opening. It already comes up farther than on the real car. The kit rear openings are HUGE and it's difficult to find a tire that comes anywhere near filling them as it is. 

I think the rear of the car could stand raising just a hair. In the photo of the mockup, the bottom edge of the body appears to run right through the axle centerline. In the real pic, the bottom edge of the body would appear to run an inch, maybe not quite two inches above the axle centerline. Actually, the mockup looks fine as it is, and most people would never notice that trivial discrepancy at all. 

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47 minutes ago, afx said:

Mock-up looks great and IMHO I think you nailed the stance.  You could maybe thin out the lip around the rear wheel and raise the opening a bit.  That would give you more tire clearance without having the raise the rear of the car.

Image result for souza bros. mustang afx

AFX, If you look at where the top of the rear wheel and how it is  just below the style crease that runs horizontally (don't know the correct terminology)

I think Im off a bit. But that is a problem with the AMT moulding.The rear wheel opening is just a little too high, using tires just oversize I think minimizes

the problem. Also look at how forward those front wheels are.

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When I say raise the opening I'm talking about the lower edge, raise the apex of the opening not actually move it up higher on the fender.  Regardless of what you decide to do or not do, I love the build so far.

Yea they often slide to body back to induce more weight transfer causing the axles line to be forward of center. 

Edited by afx

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23 hours ago, afx said:

When I say raise the opening I'm talking about the lower edge, raise the apex of the opening not actually move it up higher on the fender.  Regardless of what you decide to do or not do, I love the build so far.

Yea they often slide to body back to induce more weight transfer causing the axles line to be forward of center. 

JC, I'm not following you on "raising the apex". 

Still looking for the right front wheels for this, the ones in the Revell K.S. pittman Willys would be perfect but they only fit their too wide front tires.

AMT Ohio George 33 Willys are close but are four lug and SMALL window Halibrands.

Looked at Speed City Resin, think they have what I need for front wheels and tires.

The rear Wheels on this car look to an awful lot like those in the Monogram Lil' Coffin kit. anyone know what those were?

 

 

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29 minutes ago, STYRENE-SURFER said:

 

Still looking for the right front wheels for this, the ones in the Revell K.S. pittman Willys would be perfect but they only fit their too wide front tires.

AMT Ohio George 33 Willys are close but are four lug and SMALL window Halibrands.

Looked at Speed City Resin, think they have what I need for front wheels and tires.

The rear Wheels on this car look to an awful lot like those in the Monogram Lil' Coffin kit. anyone know what those were?

 

 

Speed City has good parts and customer service.  Another source for the wheels is Ed Fluck at Drag City Casting - http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/member_dealer_directory/drag-city-casting-/

I like what you're doing here and have been enjoying following along - good work, neat project.

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On 10/5/2018 at 9:31 PM, Muncie said:

Speed City has good parts and customer service.  Another source for the wheels is Ed Fluck at Drag City Casting - http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/member_dealer_directory/drag-city-casting-/

I like what you're doing here and have been enjoying following along - good work, neat project.

Ed has some very nice American Racing Mags.

DSC01502DSC01503

And some nice 5 slots.

DSC00539

Edited by afx

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On 10/5/2018 at 8:57 PM, STYRENE-SURFER said:

JC, I'm not following you on "raising the apex". 

 

The peak of the wheel opening arc is the apex (highest point) of the curve.  The opening in this photo looks more "D" shaped than a true semicircle.

Image result for souza bros. mustang afx

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1 hour ago, afx said:

Ed has some very nice American Racing Mags.

DSC01502DSC01503

And some nice 5 slots.

DSC00539

Very kool..... 😎👍

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On 10/5/2018 at 8:31 PM, Muncie said:

Speed City has good parts and customer service.  Another source for the wheels is Ed Fluck at Drag City Casting - http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/member_dealer_directory/drag-city-casting-/

I like what you're doing here and have been enjoying following along - good work, neat project.

Muncie, Thanx for that link. will have a look around at Ed's parts.

20 hours ago, afx said:

The peak of the wheel opening arc is the apex (highest point) of the curve.  The opening in this photo looks more "D" shaped than a true semicircle.

Image result for souza bros. mustang afx

J.C. Now I get what you're saying. Didn't notice that before.

Did some work in the shop on the front leaf suspension, only took two attempts to get those 4 holes spaced equally. 

I can't tell how many leaves where used on the real car so Im only going to make 2. 3 just looks wrong with the styrene I have on hand.

DSC01234-vi.jpg

DSC01233-vi.jpg

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13 hours ago, Deuces said:

Here ya go..... 😉

ind18 (2).jpg

If the Souza Bros. where running that engine they would have been unbeatable.  Tho they did quite well with there Algon-injected 427 Wedge.B)

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Some more progress today. Added shock mount to the leaf spring platforms, got one side glued up.

DSC01236-vi.jpg

DSC01240-vi.jpg

DSC01239-vi.jpg

:) Have to sand down the heads on the U bolts. They are made from Plastruct .8mm styrene Hex rod hoping that the effect will appear like nuts.

Edited by STYRENE-SURFER

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Every time I look at this build I want to start trying to replicate it. You're doing a great job on this. 

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This thing has really turned into something and am liking it. So much so I pulled my stalled kit out.

Can I give a bit of advice/info? Turn the oil pan around or make the front deeper. The oil pump is in the front and the pan is too shallow in the front for the pump. Obviously, I am speaking about a 1:1 car, but to make it more accurate, it would need something. Just an FYI

Attached is a stock type rear sump and a new style aftermarket pan

images (32).jpg

mil-30550_xl.jpg

Edited by Sledsel

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12 hours ago, Sledsel said:

This thing has really turned into something and am liking it. So much so I pulled my stalled kit out.

Can I give a bit of advice/info? Turn the oil pan around or make the front deeper. The oil pump is in the front and the pan is too shallow in the front for the pump. Obviously, I am speaking about a 1:1 car, but to make it more accurate, it would need something. Just an FYI

Attached is a stock type rear sump and a new style aftermarket pan

images (32).jpg

mil-30550_xl.jpg

Thanx Andy, Here is a picture of the version of the car I'm building. You can see the shape of the oil pan clearly.

Interesting how they setup the front geometry. Look at how the front tires have swung forward on launch.

side-vi.jpg

Edited by STYRENE-SURFER

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