They shoot horses, don't they?

[Sledsel]

36 minutes ago, STYRENE-SURFER said:

Thanx Andy, Here is a picture of the version of the car I'm building. You can see the shape of the oil pan clearly.

Interesting how they setup the front geometry. Look at how the front tires have swung forward on launch.

She has a rear sump for sure. I was just noting the front part of your pan is not deep enough for the pump. I know it is just a kit, but you are doing a great job on it and I am just passing some info.

As for that geometry on the front, it does that because the shackles are in the rear. If they were in the front, the center line would swing backwards.

[STYRENE-SURFER]

New front axle finally glued up. First had to lace the U-Bolts over and through the mounting platforms.

Carefully glued and trimmed.

On the car. Next will have to make some shackles, disk brakes, order the correct wheels and on and on

 

[afx]

Impressive work Kurt.

[MeatMan]

Great work Kurt. Thanks for sharing so much of your work.

I know what you mean about learning about the AFX cars. I'm assembling parts to build one of the original 65 models that had the stock chassis. I'm a Chevy guy with a newfound fondness for the old Fords.

I bought the book "Ford Drag Racing in the 60's" and learned a lot. I also visited a local Ford museum that had one, and the guy let me roll around under the cars and take pics. It was too cool!

[ratdoggy]

That's coming out really nicely...

Was it this kit? I had a hell of a time with stuff not fitting

[STYRENE-SURFER]

4 hours ago, MeatMan said:

Great work Kurt. Thanks for sharing so much of your work.

I know what you mean about learning about the AFX cars. I'm assembling parts to build one of the original 65 models that had the stock chassis. I'm a Chevy guy with a newfound fondness for the old Fords.

I bought the book "Ford Drag Racing in the 60's" and learned a lot. I also visited a local Ford museum that had one, and the guy let me roll around under the cars and take pics. It was too cool!

Thanx Dennis, The Holman Moody A/FX cars were interesting. What car did you see at the Ford museum?

Would love to some of those photos you took. 

Which kit are you going to use for the body/chassis ?

2 hours ago, ratdoggy said:

That's coming out really nicely...

Was it this kit? I had a hell of a time with stuff not fitting

The AMT funny car Mustang-GT (that looks like it) It's an old tired out moulding, hence the name of my thread.  But still a cool kit with lots of possibuilities .

[MeatMan]

17 hours ago, STYRENE-SURFER said:

Thanx Dennis, The Holman Moody A/FX cars were interesting. What car did you see at the Ford museum?

Would love to some of those photos you took. 

Which kit are you going to use for the body/chassis ?

Your welcome Kurt.

I saw the Bob Ford Mustang, "The Quiet One". Dyno Don took it over after 1969 and raced it in A-Modified Production.

I won't be recreating that one because it ran with twin carbs and I bought injectors for mine.

If you want to see all of the pics I took, like the chassis shots, here is my Fotki link. https://public.fotki.com/Urban-Poet/65-afx-mustang-research/

I'm using the Revell 66 Mustang GT kit. I'll only have to change the dash gauges, and the grille for the 65 look. I'll be using both the body and chassis but with alterations of course. Since the 65 wheelbase wasn't as radically altered as the 66 "funny cars" I think I can alter the fenderwells without much trouble. At least that's the plan. 

The trick will be trying to recreate that funky single spring front suspension.

Edited October 27, 2018 by MeatMan

[Snake45]

57 minutes ago, MeatMan said:

Your welcome Kurt.

I saw the Bob Ford Mustang, "The Quiet One". Dyno Don took it over after 1969 and raced it in A-Modified Production.

I won't be recreating that one because it ran with twin carbs and I bought injectors for mine.

If you want to see all of the pics I took, like the chassis shots, here is my Fotki link. https://public.fotki.com/Urban-Poet/65-afx-mustang-research/

I'm using the Revell 66 Mustang GT kit. I'll only have to change the dash gauges, and the grille for the 65 look. I'll be using both the body and chassis but with alterations of course. Since the 65 wheelbase wasn't as radically altered as the 66 "funny cars" I think I can alter the fenderwells without much trouble. At least that's the plan. 

The trick will be trying to recreate that funky single spring front suspension.

Very cool! IIRC, Dyno Don ran this car on the "run whatcha brung" heads-up circuit of about 1969, which was the direct forerunner of Pro Stock, which debuted in 1970. He was in good company, running with Jenkins, Sox, Landy, Sam Auxier Jr., etc. I believe I've seen a photo of this very car running in a 4-way match with Jenkins, Sox (or was it Landy?), and Jungle Jim Liberman's seldom-remembered '69 Camaro ZL-1. 

[STYRENE-SURFER]

5 hours ago, MeatMan said:

If you want to see all of the pics I took, like the chassis shots, here is my Fotki link. https://public.fotki.com/Urban-Poet/65-afx-mustang-research/

I'm using the Revell 66 Mustang GT kit. I'll only have to change the dash gauges, and the grille for the 65 look. I'll be using both the body and chassis but with alterations of course. Since the 65 wheelbase wasn't as radically altered as the 66 "funny cars" I think I can alter the fenderwells without much trouble. At least that's the plan. 

The trick will be trying to recreate that funky single spring front suspension

Dennis, those are great pics thanx for sharing them. The Revell 66 GT should be a good starting point for you're project. 

[afx]

I agree those are some great photos Dennis.  Very surprised how low the headers are routed. 

[MeatMan]

Hey Kurt. I don't know if this will help, or help confuse but when I was taking pics of the 65 AFX, I took some pics of the Batman car sitting next to it because I was considering using FI on mine.

It shows some good engine compartment stuff.

[STYRENE-SURFER]

Got some more done on the mustang. Built a new steering gear box, just wasn't happy with the way the first one looked (well 2nd one if you count the ones I actually made)

Put keyways in the frame rails to accept tabs that are glued to the ends of the leaf springs so I could get rid of the temporary front axle locators.

Made the front spring hangers and shackles,  I have chosen to glue to these to the chassis. Now working on the tie rods, drag link and other tinny bits.

Hopefully in this last pic you can see the keyways and corresponding tabs, not the greatest lighting in my shop

Edited November 25, 2018 by STYRENE-SURFER

[afx]

Clever locating technique on the springs. 

[STYRENE-SURFER]

48 minutes ago, afx said:

Clever locating technique on the springs. 

Thanx J.C.

It took some planning, actually had to make a saw (2 saw blades glued together then honed down to the correct thickness, then gluing on stops to set the depth) and temporarily 

glueing guides to the frame rails to get the slots in the right place. Here is a pic of the tools used for the slots and making shackles, front spring mounts.

Edited November 25, 2018 by STYRENE-SURFER

[John Pol]

31 minutes ago, STYRENE-SURFER said:

Got some more done on the mustang. Built a new steering gear box, just wasn't happy with the way the first one looked (well 2nd one if you count the ones I actually made)

Put keyways in the frame rails to accept tabs that are glued to the ends of the leaf springs so I could get rid of the temporary front axle locators.

Made the front spring hangers and shackles,  I have chosen to glue to these to the chassis. Now working on the tie rods, drag link and other tinny bits.

Hopefully in this last pic you can see the keyways and corresponding tabs, not the greatest lighting in my shop

looking great so far your lucky the u blots did not snap when you bend them to fit into the holes

[STYRENE-SURFER]

27 minutes ago, John Pol said:

looking great so far your lucky the u blots did not snap when you bend them to fit into the holes

Thanx John...You didn't see the first attempt

[iBorg]

How you're doing this in plastic amazes me. The parts are very clean in fabrication and there's absolutely no glue. It will be almost a shame to paint it.

[STYRENE-SURFER]

13 minutes ago, iBorg said:

How you're doing this in plastic amazes me. The parts are very clean in fabrication and there's absolutely no glue. It will be almost a shame to paint it.

Thanx Mike. The painting part, when it is ready for it, kinda scares me. Going to have to do some tricky masking because the frame is black

and the rest is aluminum, oh and some small bits on the front in the engine bay (the ones perforated w/lightening holes) need to be Poppy red 

like the rest of the body.  

[STYRENE-SURFER]

Back at the other end of the car I did a little work cleaning up the ladder bars and raised the rear about .030 of an inch.

Cut some rear coil springs from a Revell SSR kit to the correct length and got very lucky, because all the tires touch the ground.

This end of the car strays from being accurate, just getting the rear axle located rite and the tires within the wheel opining looking

OK was real pain.

In the photos Ive got of the car I can't see any sign of a Panhard bar or Watt's link. Certainly there has to be something I'm missing.

This page from Drag Strip magazine has a shot of the rear suspension (car depicted in this article is a later version w/longer wheelbase).

Yah, I know the ladder bars are different. Still might fix that.

 

Edited November 28, 2018 by STYRENE-SURFER

[afx]

No doubt you know this Kurt but a Panhard bar and Watts Link helps locate the axle laterally.  It's not inconceivable that a straight line car would run without such devices.

[STYRENE-SURFER]

1 hour ago, afx said:

No doubt you know this Kurt but a Panhard bar and Watts Link helps locate the axle laterally.  It's not inconceivable that a straight line car would run without such devices.

That might very well be the case, I really don't know much about how these old drag cars where put together but this project has been a learning experience.

Most of what I'm doing is looking at the few photographs I've found and trying to go from there. Lots of google researching also.

Edited November 28, 2018 by STYRENE-SURFER

[STYRENE-SURFER]

One thing that I can not find is any kind of depiction of the Simpson "flexible shield" that they used on there C6.

Look in the upper right of that last pic.

Were they using Kevlar back then? Strange but I have searched and searched for pictures of shields used on

C6 transmissions back then and can not find one.

 

Edited November 29, 2018 by STYRENE-SURFER

[Muncie]

37 minutes ago, STYRENE-SURFER said:

One thing that I can not find is any kind of depiction of the Simpson "flexible shield" that they used on there C6.

Look in the upper right of that last pic.

Were they using Kevlar back then? Strange but I have searched and searched for pictures of shields used on

C6 transmissions back then and can not find one.

 

I couldn't turn up anything either on the Simpson transmission blanket.  It looks like Simpson doesn't make them anymore.   However, it would be almost indistinguishable from something like this more modern part.  The material is "ballistic" nylon, multiple multiple layers with webbing straps and buckles.

 

Thanks for posting your work - I'm learning a lot and enjoying following along.  Very nicely done.

[STYRENE-SURFER]

19 hours ago, Muncie said:

I couldn't turn up anything either on the Simpson transmission blanket.  It looks like Simpson doesn't make them anymore.   However, it would be almost indistinguishable from something like this more modern part.  The material is "ballistic" nylon, multiple multiple layers with webbing straps and buckles.

 

Thanks for posting your work - I'm learning a lot and enjoying following along.  Very nicely done.

 

Thanx for that Steve.
I wonder what kind of material could be used to replicate something like that?

[Snake45]

3 minutes ago, STYRENE-SURFER said:

I wonder what kind of material could be used to replicate something like that?

My first thought was Duck Tape. Then I thought, maybe go to a fabric store and wander around. Maybe some kind of thin, tightly woven nylon that you could soak in thinned white glue and mold into shape?