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Bantam Fuel Altered - New pics 1-7


Codi

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On 8/4/2019 at 8:25 AM, Codi said:

Hard lines are a pain.  Tank, lines, fuel shut-off etc. are all installed finally.  Remote oil filter install next and the engine will finally be complete.

cheers, tim

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WOW, WOW , WOW

this is just insane to think its a scale model

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Hi!

Fantastic work!

To your point about hard lines... At Michael's, I found beading wire that is soft and pliable, and avail in copper and nickel shades. Just the right size for fuel lines in 1/24-1/25. This seems to be a "new" item. The sheen makes it even more accurate once in place. 

Keep on!

CT

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I'm embarrassed to admit that it took me about 6+ hours to just install the oil filters, their lines & fittings and finally the fuel tank braces.  There is a pic included showing the chassis from above and it gives the best idea of how tight it truly is between the frame rails.  Please remember, the entire chassis is about 6" in length.  Only the front suspension & headers to install and the entire chassis will be complete.  Only the tins & bracing to install on the body and this build will be complete.   Oh so close.   Cheers one and all, tim

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This is the pic I referenced above......

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This pic shows the oil filters and lines...........

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Thank you Claude........don't know much about nano science but I have figured out finally how to use my shrink gun.  

Dave, quite the compliment from an accomplished builder in his own right.  I didn't leave anything on the field as they say on this one.  3+ years and I'm happy it's virtually done.   See ya' Friday!

John T. thanks man.  No autographs but we'll have to figure out where we can meet some day to finally be properly introduced. 

Hakan, thanks too.  It's come together these last few days.  I promised better pics in the near future.  I want to see what in looks like in natural sunlight.  cheers

Brad, Brad, Brad...........you're going to need more wall space because when it's all buttoned up and I take the glamour shots, you're going to be confused as can be.  Thanks too for the laugh and the VERY nice compliment.   I made good progress assembling the front suspension and steering and added the headers.  Only the water neck lines to run to the headers and the chassis /engine is done FINALLY.   Some small touch up here and there and a few brass nuts to touch up with paint.  After 3 years and 2000+ hours conservatively.  At some point I'm going to weigh it as I couldn't believe the heft of it when I picked it up today..........these couple pics are for you Brad!  cheers, tim

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The picture above with nothing to give away the size leads one to believe that that is a full size chassis.

It is mind numbing to think this is a model.  Even more breath taking is its 25th scale. The soldering is so precise. Normally we see huge blobs of solder on the joints. Codi would really like to see how you achieve such clean solder work?

This is a stunning masterpiece in the world of precision miniatures. 

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Tim.... what more can be said about this build. It's a true piece of artwork my friend. The craftsmanship is out of this world. You took the time to get every little single detail just perfect. This build is absolutely gorgeous and I love it :wub:. Cheers!

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Again, thanks for the chuckle Brad.  I'll take pics with the wheels /wing on it and post over the weekend.  I just have to detail the body yet.  But for sure YEAH!!  It's done.

Bob, I know guys that get phenomenal joints using a soldering iron (Clay Kemp & Randy D. come to mind) But my experiment of machining grooves into particle board and laying various sized tubing in place (that way I didn't have to touch it and nothing moved AND most importantly both sides were EXACTLY the same).  I put Tix flux at each joint all at once,  placed a small sliver of Tix solder over top of the joint and then flame soldered the rails together. I use a Benzomatic mini torch.  Granted, having a mill helps to do that but I had no re-work, nothing moved, great joints and almost non-existent clean up.  For the other parts of the chassis I used my resistance soldering iron which I've gotten better at using with time and experience.  Here's a pic of the particle board/chassis that I milled for the soldering operation.  Thanks too for the compliment(s).  

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Appreciated Chris!!  I'm going to do a simpler build next before I jump back to the Pro Mod.  A bit of a mental break if you will.  Really keen to do a Pro Stock Maverick.  I was able to pick up a sweet, totally complete kit from a gentlemen in the U.K.  Great foundation for it.  I've been checking out the forum and there is a ton of great info on the topic from others here.  Nobody beats this site for knowledge when it comes to modelling IMO.     Cheers !!  

 

Edited by Codi
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On 8/7/2019 at 9:25 PM, Claude Thibodeau said:

...I built real rods for a living... and working the tight quarters in 1/1 is often a pain in the neck... So, at this scale, it borders on nano-science.

Yup. It takes real, serious skill and commitment to turn out work that looks this good full-scale. It borders on magic to do it on a model.

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Dave, what a blast that was.  More fun than Hershey Park. As close to a DRIVEABLE race car on the street as one could find.  I'd only share with others that the craftsmanship that Dave put into his ride is unreal.  He isn't a perfectionist, but he seems to achieve it nonetheless.  cheers !! 

Dave & Bill (Ace) ,  a sincere thank you your thoughts on the build.  It reflects what I've learned over the last 7 years since I've returned to the hobby.  I should have some final pics soon or at the very least a few with the body/ wheels & wing on it.  The body tin install will take a few days .

As an aside, I'm onto the next build...........I'll post something in the near future.  cheers to one and all!  tim

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Thanks so much Bill and it is the Maverick.  Still trying to decide upon either  a 427SOHC or Boss 429.   Your thread on the Best 427SOHC has been insightful too.  This next car will not be over the top like the Bantam, no wires etc. at all but I"m going to attempt some key components for machining that should really add to the car.  A clean, simpler build is what I'm striving for that I can complete in less than a year.  cheers!

Peter, thanks sir, I've taken my inspiration from various accomplished builders on this forum, made some new friends and learned a bunch along the way.  win-win-win I think you could say.   cheers as well! tim

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So much to learn here. When you did the frame templates, did you free hand them? What material are they in (looks like particle board) and what type or mill bit. Also, did you adjust the pattern for the different size tubes? This is SOOOOOO killer.

Finally what Harrisburg?

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Dennis, thanks man!  

Mike, I'll do my best to answer your questions - I first drew up prints for the chassis with the specific dimensions and tube/rod sizes I would use. I used particle board (fine but cheap that I bought at Home Depot) that I set up on my mill.  When you say "free hand" I'm not quite sure what you mean but to clarify I don't have or use a CNC machine.   Old school.  I did adjust for the various tube diameters so that the smallest bars would be centered properly.  I couldn't have done this nearly as accurately if I hadn't done it this way IMO.    I then used 1/16 ball mill to make the main frame rails and then a 3/64" ball mill for the next size and for the smallest bars (they're 1/32") I just laid them flat as needed in between the main rails/bars and soldered it all up.  I spent quite a bit of time prepping it all to get it ready but the actual soldering was done in mere minutes and both sides turned out identical and solid.  As an aside, a benefit was the very minimal clean-up doing it this way.  Just a few minutes and they were done. 

The small piece of particle board (burnt) above the chassis piece was my experiment to validate that my method would work.  Once it proofed out, I then machined the template piece for the chassis itself which is pictured right below it. 

Not everyone has the tools available to do it this way but if you do, it's a very effective way of making extremely accurate frame rails such as this.   If I missed something please let me know and I'll try to answer them as best I can!    Thanks too for the compliment.  

Edited by Codi
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