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Codi

BANTAM FUEL ALTERED - New pics 11-12

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tim,  there seems to be alot of people on this board who want to believe they can talk the talk........but you, can walk the walk! AWESOME BUDDY!!!!!

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Tim... That Chassis is flat out gorgeous. Nice work on the paint. It looks killer. It is no fun painting when there is a lot of humidity. I can't wait until your next update.

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Looking good Tim

Well done on the paint!

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Thank you one and all as that part was just kicking my butt.  I peeled off tape etc. from the chassis and took a couple pics with some shiny bits on it just to get some satisfaction from all the grief it put me through.  Should be really sharp once all assembled.  I'm going to tackle all the crower and manifold hard lines next so I can then begin final detailing & assembly.

Cheers!

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tim, is the m&h racemaster logo on the tire a transfer, decal or painted?  it is incredibly clean.

quick change looks awesome!!!!!!!!!

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Tim... wow... this is so gorgeous. I absolutely love the contrast between the rear end and chassis. This build is flat out gorgeous :wub:

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Tim.......soooooo very happy for you!!!!........paint looks great Brother.......looking KILLER!!!!!:)

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Thank you!   Dave, the tire lettering are decals. I followed some tips that Clay K. shared and was happy with the results.  Cheers!

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On 19/09/2018 at 6:03 PM, Codi said:

Encouraging comments from each of you, today was day 1 of 5 day of great paint weather now.  I know it's not much but after too many delays, I actually have the chassis in primer sitting in the dehyrator. Tomorrow color, then Saturday should be clear.   Excited now to really move on with it.   Cheers again to all that have followed and commented.   Tim

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bought one of this dehyrator a well ago any tips on how to use it? By the way your work is amazing

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Tim, I'm running out of expletives!  This is really a masterpiece.  I love watching you build it.

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Wow Tim, it looks fantastic. You have every right to be proud. Who would have thought that results like this would be straight from the can? I did some testing with Duplicolor from the can and it came out a little weird. Must have been the humidity.

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Hi John,  the dehydrator is something I've used for several years now. I bought 2 so that I could make mine taller for the types of things I paint.  Just had to do a bit of crude hacking to remove the shelves inside and sealed the 2 halves together with sticky plumbers silver tape.  So far as using it, I never set it above 95 degrees........I prefer to let it cure the paint for 2 to 8 hours depending on what type of paint I'm using.  Then let it cure another day or so in the cabinet before handling.  Again, dependent upon the type of paint. Interestingly I contacted Alclad with some questions and he cautioned me NOT to use the dehydrator when spraying their enamels.  The formula they use and dehydrators don't place nice together. I suppose it has something to do with the speed that the enamel is curing and what their formula is.  Just thought I'd share. Lacquers dry quickly as you know anyhow so an hour in the dehydrator is just "insurance" before handling.  There is a great link on the forum with all kinds of great info and experiences that others have shared that you'll find helpful too. 

Pete, nice to hear from you as always.Thanks too!

Dave, I can only surmise that the humidity is a very key factor when spraying their lacquers.  They even say on the cans that it shouldn't exceed 65% but at anything in the low 40's you should get great results about every time.  I was also surprised at how well it went down right from the rattle can.  Since you live nearby you know the horrible paint weather we've endured since Spring. I'm just glad it's done and turned out smooth & at how hard the finish is as well.  That's a real plus.  

Gilles, thank you sir as well.  It's always nice to see others from around the world visiting the forum to share their work or to post comments.  I really look forward to seeing pics from model shows in Europe and Asia whenever they get posted just to see what others are interested in building and the quality of their work. 

btw, started on the hardline's as noted and spent 5 hours alone just to get em' going.  this is going to take a while.   Cheers!

 

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Tim, it’s looking great. Thanks for the reply on the primer. It seems as though you may have changed course on that since you answered my question, so I’m curious, why did you have to paint it three times? That’s basically why I asked the question, because on the brass midget I was planning to use a self etching primer, but wasn’t sure if I needed to. So I am curious what issues you ran into. It’s so cool to see this finally going together!

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Hi Art, I just wasn't happy with the finish. The humidity gave it an eggshell finish one time, then it "blushed" (the finish was flat even with the semi-gloss clear on it) so that didn't suit either. The steps I got good results with were actually pretty straightforward. 

After removing the old paint with lacquer thinner, I used my dremel and steel wool pads to get in the crevices etc. to get an as "new" ready to paint surface.  Washed it thoroughly with dawn and blew it dry with my airbrush. Sprayed the etching primer as they instructed, multiple light coats with 10 minutes between each.  Waited 45 minutes and sprayed the black in multiple light coats as well (3 coats primer and 3 of color) also 10 minutes between coats. Waited an hour and then sprayed it with 2 light coats/passes of the tamiya semi-gloss.  It gave me the proper gloss finish I was seeking over the flat black color.  Waited 10 minutes between each clear coat.  That was it.  All out of the cans. 

One of other issues I wanted to share was on my first attempt, the finish pealed off (again, the humidity, was about 65%) whereas now it's ON.....and I can describe it as actually hard.  The self etching primer was key in that regard as it made the difference in how it stuck to the brass.  My first attempt the primer was tamiyas standard fine white for plastic and metal.  That didn't work.  For ME, the keys were reasonable temp, low humidity and multiple light coats.........no medium or "wet" coats applied.  The finish is thin as lacquer is, but again, tough.  If you have any plastic bits on your brass chassis, I would practice on something first to ensure the self etching primer doesn't do bad things to those bits and pieces.  Mine, being all brass, that was not an issue.  Hope this helps in some way.  Cheers, Tim

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Tim,

Thank you so much for the detailed response. This whole thread, and the one before it, have been full of lessons and trials you have conquered before us. I really do appreciate the work you have done here.

-Art

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I am no automotive modeler and "blame" my two bit attempt at an MPC Mongoose kit along with building a transport truck for even looking in this section. 

Well, as soon as I saw the view and page count on this thread, I bit.  Good thing I have hardwood floors...it makes it easier to clean up my drool.  

So as a lame-brained, glue bomb building neanderthal,  allow me to say your masterpiece has to be one of the finest displays of craftsmanship of this sort I can recall. 

It is absolutely stunning!    I hope it will somehow be preserved for generations to come so they can marvel over it.    It certainly warrants it in my opinion.  

Peace.

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What is most amazing about this build is it's 1/25th.....amazing in so many ways.

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Art, thank you sir.  I've learned so much from others here at the forum and been inspired by their work and learned from their sharing of techniques & methods.   Great hobby we have huh?  (rhetorical)  cheers

jc, appreciate the comment but I wouldn't go quite that far.  I'll show the car a couple times and then I'm going to donate / give it away.   Keep up the good work yourself, I took a peek at your recent rig and car you posted..........that's some nice work in it's own right!  

Mike, you've been a consistent follower/commentator on the thread and always in a very positive way.  Thanks as it provides a bit of encouragement at times when I hit a "slow" patch. As an aside, I've put almost 20 hours into throttle linkage etc. on the Crower 8 port, should have it wrapped up by next weekend.  Gotta say, it looks pretty cool on the bench right now and I can't wait to get it done.   The manifold lines are going to be a bit trickier.     Cheers to all!!    Tim

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Tim.... I really appreciate you taking the time to give us in depth details on your process for this epic build. I have learned quite a bit from you. I really appreciate the tip on the self etching primer for brass. I am going to have to use that on my next chassis since it will be brass. I have loved following every minute of this build. Lookong forward to your next update. I can only imagine what the throttle linkage set up with look like with all that time into it. I can respect your hard work and dedication and know exactly where you are coming from putting in those extra hours just to get it perfect. Cheers Tim!!

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Thanks Chris........I've got the linkage figured out and ready to install, but after spending a day and a half on just 8 fuel lines, I had to share.  To all those that have done hard fuel lines in ANY scale, you have my utmost respect.  Cheers, tim

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Tim... Absolutely beautiful work on the hard fuel lines. I know all too well how tough it is to make them perfect and precise. I couldn't tell you how many sets I bent for the funny car but I made my fair share of them until I got them right and I have a feeling I took way more than a day and half to do mine..:lol:. This build is a pleasure to watch come together. Keep up the Amazing work. Cheers!

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Tim.....WOW!!!!......that is Amazing!!!!!

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