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Polishing Glass


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happened to me too. I did some VERY fine wetsanding. Tedious, but turned out very nice at the end. I was gonna use future on it too, but didn't need it. - DISREGARD THAT - I did use future on it :D

Edited by CFMgarage
my memory sucks.
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Get it to a point, 800 or 1000 grit and you can clear coat the "glass" to bring the translucency back. i do this with full size head and tail lights. Sand out to 800 and then clear. The tail lights on my truck were done exactly this way when I whited out the edges to match the truck.

Mark

95gmc-7.jpg

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If you're using the finest grits, (as fine as 12000) you should have no problem with dulling.

I use polishing pads only with no liquid polishes because I like to tint my glass afterwards.

I just finished the glass for my '66 Chrysler last night.

Just polished with Micro-Mesh pads & tinted.

 

Steve

 

 photo DSCN5030_zps0lacg5dm.jpg

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All of the above methods are great.  I however use 3200, 3600 and 4000 with water and lightly sand.  Next use some  3m scratch-x and do a lot of rubbing, just about to the point where it wants to shine, buff off, and add some polish as needed.  I use McGuire's cleaning wax, and then some Carnuba wax.  Super results all the time.

Edited by snacktruck67
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Nick, this is my favorite product. It has saved a couple of windshields for me, even one with super glue on it. I agree with the need for sanding in certain situations, but it sounds like you don't need that at this point.

 

Cheers,

Lance

DSCN0843.JPG

Ditto.

I use it on every paint job.

Along with the "Clean & Shine".

 

Steve

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All of the above methods are great.  I however use 3200, 3600 and 4000 with water and lightly sand.  Next use some  3m scratch-x and do a lot of rubbing, just about to the point where it wants so shine, buff off, and add some polish as needed.  I use McGuire's cleaning wax, and then some Carnuba wax.  Super results all the time.

Yep. This works without fail.

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Old trick, use toothpaste. It will get rid of that dull haze and your windshield will be minty fresh. Try it on a piece of scrap plastic if you think I'm kidding.

Used to do this back in the old days. Some toothpastes work great, others not so much. Back then, I found that Ultra Brite was MUCH too abrasive and would leave scratches in paint or plastic. Gels don't work very well. But some stuff called Super Ammident was just right. My dentist would always give me a tube of the stuff, which I used exclusively on models--dunno if your could even buy it in stores.

Nowadays I just use the Wright's Silver Cream. Or even the Walmart Trim fingernail sticks.

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Used to do this back in the old days. Some toothpastes work great, others not so much. Back then, I found that Ultra Brite was MUCH too abrasive and would leave scratches in paint or plastic. Gels don't work very well. But some stuff called Super Ammident was just right. My dentist would always give me a tube of the stuff, which I used exclusively on models--dunno if your could even buy it in stores.

Nowadays I just use the Wright's Silver Cream. Or even the Walmart Trim fingernail sticks.

Super Amm-i-dent hasn't been made in years. If it's just hazing and/or light scratches, dip the window glass in Future/Pledge/Whateverthehellitscallednow. 

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The Novus system (all 3 types) are specifically designed for polishing plastic, so they are the way to go.   Toothpaste is an alternative but it has to be white (not the clear gels). The white stuff is abrasive in the toothpaste.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I like Novus. 

If you're going to tint the windows, make sure to wash the glass thoroughly in soap and water, rinse and dry by air.

Toothpaste also works well, but as noted, be sure to get toothpaste, not the gel kind, as it has no abrasive in it.

Charlie Larkin

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