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AMT 1925 T BUCKET BODY......ARE THERE SEVERAL VARIATIONS...


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...just a question for the street rodder/ antique car builders on our forum....I recently bought AMT KIT NO. 670/12  2011 issue 1925 model T  Ford double kit, and wondered if other versions of the AMT T kits had a better T bucket body compared to this one.....as most of you already know, this one is different one side to the other, hinges and door lines on one side, and not the other. just thought I'd ask, as kits such as these are unfamiliar territory for me, who has always just built drag/ muscle cars generally. I would like to build something using the bucket body, so wondered if  you experts in this area could school me.....thanks in advance, boys..........the Ace....:huh:

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Are you wanting to build a drag car, or a street T-bucket, or a stocker? There are several T-bucket bodies out there that are aimed at particular build styles.

The door on the passenger side only is correct for stock, as stated.

Fiberglass repop bodies for street rods could be had with no doors, one door, 2 doors, or with some work, the stock steel shell (or an aftermarket f'glass shell) could be modified to make a functional driver's side door.

Glass drag car bodies usually had no doors, and often the molded raised detail around the 'door' was removed as well.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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Are you wanting to build a drag car, or a street T-bucket, or a stocker? There are several T-bucket bodies out there that are aimed at particular build styles.

The door on the passenger side only is correct for stock, as stated.

Fiberglass repop bodies for street rods could be had with no doors, one door, 2 doors, or with some work, the stock steel shell (or an aftermarket f'glass shell) could be modified to make a functional driver's side door.

Glass drag car bodies usually had no doors, and often the molded raised detail around the 'door' was removed as well.

great point, Bill.....I think I would build a 60s era mild street rod, similar to the box art. thanks for jumping in here, I'm not as well versed at the 20s thru 40s vintage era cars, stock or rod builds, as usually sticking with muscle/ drag cars 60s-70s era, I appreciate help on details like this. I also read your info regarding the Linclon engine in this kit, about the valve covers and such, and wondered as well,,,,my kit has the regular heads with even port spacing, but it also has an intake with other heads molded to the sides that looks interesting....any thoughts on that, Bill....thanks as well...the Ace....:D

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It's been a while since I got into that kit engine, and I seem to recall the general consensus in the community (and the results of my own comparative research) is that though the valve covers in that kit are appropriate for the Y-block Lincoln engine (specifically the cast alloy valve covers from the '56-'57 Continental Mk II) the rest of the engine is the later MEL engine family.

The Y-block distributor was in the rear, while the later MEL distributor was in the front.

The Y-block Lincoln had exhaust port spacing like the familiar smallblock Chebby, and intake port spacing almost identical to the then-current Oldsmobile V8, while the MEL (Mercury / Edsel / Lincoln) had even intake and exhaust port spacing like later Fords.

Aha. I assume you've already found this short thread:I haven't really researched which top end in the '25 kit makes the best MEL, as I was primarily interested, at the time, in getting a good rendition of the Y-block Lincoln for this build.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/66744-chopped-34-track-nose-3-w-coupe-new-nose-finally-july-13/

 

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Just checked an 80s/90s issue of that kit. I'd never realized before that the door on the right side has a groove molded around it, and hinges, and the one on the left is just a fake door molding!

Revell's Roth Tweety Pie has a working door on the right side only. Left side is just a door molding.

The parts pack T body just has fake door moldings on both sides.

Thought I had an MPC Switchers T body handy to check out, but I can't lay hands on it right at the moment.

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.......sooooo, the hinges on the one side is correct here, and I should just prep, paint, and be happy...just checking...thanks, the Ace..:)

To fill this out a bit:  When Ford began production of the T-Bucket with it's compound curved shapes in 1915, they omitted the left side (driver's side in the US) door, due mostly to the placement of the reverse gear/handbrake lever, while stamping a raised molding on the left side of the roadster (and forward side panel on touring cars) just to "balance things up" visually. This feature was carried forward through 1925, when the new-for-1926 Model T open car bodies got a driver's side door.  

Just to making things interesting, AC, ALL Model T open cars of those years produced in Canada, did have fully functional doors on open body styles (roadsters and touring cars),  probably as Ford of Canada produced cars for sale across the British Empire, where so many countries drive on the left side of the road.  

AMT's '25 T roadster body shell is actually quite correct for US domestic market.

Art

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To fill this out a bit:  When Ford began production of the T-Bucket with it's compound curved shapes in 1915, they omitted the left side (driver's side in the US) door, due mostly to the placement of the reverse gear/handbrake lever, while stamping a raised molding on the left side of the roadster (and forward side panel on touring cars) just to "balance things up" visually. This feature was carried forward through 1925, when the new-for-1926 Model T open car bodies got a driver's side door.  

Just to making things interesting, AC, ALL Model T open cars of those years produced in Canada, did have fully functional doors on open body styles (roadsters and touring cars),  probably as Ford of Canada produced cars for sale across the British Empire, where so many countries drive on the left side of the road.  

AMT's '25 T roadster body shell is actually quite correct for US domestic market.

Art

thanks for that, Art.....I'll run with what I have then, just wanted to be certain, and knew that our esteemed members would have all the answers, as usual.....best, the Ace...:D

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It's been a while since I got into that kit engine, and I seem to recall the general consensus in the community (and the results of my own comparative research) is that though the valve covers in that kit are appropriate for the Y-block Lincoln engine (specifically the cast alloy valve covers from the '56-'57 Continental Mk II) the rest of the engine is the later MEL engine family.

The Y-block distributor was in the rear, while the later MEL distributor was in the front.

The Y-block Lincoln had exhaust port spacing like the familiar smallblock Chebby, and intake port spacing almost identical to the then-current Oldsmobile V8, while the MEL (Mercury / Edsel / Lincoln) had even intake and exhaust port spacing like later Fords.

Aha. I assume you've already found this short thread:I haven't really researched which top end in the '25 kit makes the best MEL, as I was primarily interested, at the time, in getting a good rendition of the Y-block Lincoln for this build.

 

thanks again, Bill, as usual our members here make it easy with the answers.....this is a new idea for me, but I am interested in building a neat little rod from this....and that Lincoln mill is just too good to dismiss for this car, its just so nice with the six carbs and all.... best,  the Ace...:lol:

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